Tow hook install

First removed factory passenger side transport bracket. Purchased Curt pt. # 22430 tow hook, rated for 10,000 lbs. (Amazon)
Purchased (2) 12 x 1.25 x 60 mm grade 8.8 (equivalent to SAE grade 5) metric bolts. Tow hook bolt centers match factory holes. Reinstalled bracket and tow hook, torqued to 80 ft.lbs. 8.8 metric bolts are rated at 120,000 psi tensile strength and 60,000 psi shear.

 

Interesting that the hole spacing is the same.

Another option offered by Toyota (Part Number: 5196135080) compensates for the off-axis angle of those factory holes:


Others have experienced this with the Curt style of hook in heavy pulls:

 

WOW!

 

Something like this would be even better than the TRD hook mentioned above:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacoma-marketplace/240901-fs-recovery-shackle-replacement-off-road-tow-hook.html

 

Your recovery solutions should reflect the kind of wheeling you actually do (unless your just a poser). In 40 years of owning 4 WD vehicles, I've only needed a tow a handful of times and was successfully recovered with a "hook" each time. A quality 10,000 lb tow hook will move a lot of iron for 10 bucks. But, will not substitute for every situation that you could find yourself in.

 

Thank you, just ordered the hook and a new D ring receiver based recovery point. The Harbor Freight receiver hook looks pretty terrible after four years of use.

Howard

 

I recommend and use carabiners rated at 10K plus to securely hook into the front OEM tow hook/loop. If your Taco is stuck in deep snow/mud/water, you don’t want to be fishing around hunting for the tow rope/chain if it slips off.

Here’s one rated at 11.2K:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARABINER-S...soffType=SaleAndClearence&_trksid=p5731.m3795

 

Do you think mounting it 25 degrees off axis poses any potential issues?

 

Yes, no and maybe - Is every pull perpendicular to the axis? Hey, I installed a "hook". Have never had anything other in 40 years. (yep, I'm a dinosaur) Hope I never need it. If I do, hope it works. If it doesn't, shame on me for getting that stuck. bad judgment or a bad decision. Maybe just walk away and call the insurance guy.

 

I use the one that came on the truck and it works great.

 

Sorry to beat the topic to death and do appreciate your responses.

 

That would likely be fine for a winch pull (slowly applied loads) but a snatch strap recovery can put loads well in excess of 10k lbf for short periods of time. I would not use such device with a snatch strap.

 

True, I’d never snatch/shock load with a carabiner, for those instances it’s good to use industrial rigging equipment such as steel shackles that are rated for 50,000 lb test or greater. Industrial tool shops typically stock galvanized anchor shackles with screw pins (as opposed to a bolt pin or loose pin). These are commonly used with hoists and overhead cranes so if you have a crane supplier in your neighborhood that's a good source.

 

Previous poster, EDDO, suggests not using a 10,000 lb tow hook for the same reason. Moral of this thread, don't get stuck - if you do, ask someone on this forum how to get unstuck, what equipment to use, how much to spend, which brand of equipment works best, and their personal anecdotal recovery experiences from some remote off road destination. I'm still looking for the wheat in the chaff. (ps, this thread started as - here's a simple, cost effective, recovery solution for a Tacoma without a front tow hook / or not)

 

Moral of this thread is be careful. The hook you posted about is just fine, within limitations, which were mentioned by EDDO. Not sure what you really want from your thread.

The use of highly elastic snatch straps (essentially huge rubber bands) have not been around for decades, and they impose much higher loads for short periods of time than traditional tow straps/chains, etc and can kill people when something lets lose. It seems perfectly reasonable to me to discuss these topics in a thread about tow hooks.

 

OP - I was simply trying to point out some possibly better options. You have very well thought-out reasoning for your choice.
My main concern with the hook oriented downward is the strap simply falling off when not under tension.

 

You are absolutely right, it can and does. Unfortunately, this off the shelf solution does not allow for the hook to point up. I keep a hand full of zip ties in my glove box and have used them in the past to secure the tow loop to the hook on similar downward facing hooks. Never had the issue on my personal recoveries, but they come in handy if you get a little slack in the tow line.

 

The cheap tow hook upgrade is getting expensive...

$9.99 for the hook from Amazon
$34 for the really nice smitty built d-Ring receiver recovery point
$7.98 plus tax for the bolts at TSC
$45 to get the dog microchipped on the way to TSC

So the ten dollar hook cost me almost a C note. On the other hand, it installed really easy.

Howard

 

But you saved enough to get the dog microchipped by not buying this instead of the Smittybilt. That is the TW math!

 

I would rather fail an inexpensive recovery point that fail the hitch or frame...