Torque converter

About a month ago took my 2015 sport with 120k miles to the stealership to have the trans. flushed. Three weeks later I notice a shudder on easy acceleration at around 40mph. No lift here..all stock. I'm thinking drivetrain or carrier bearing. Carrier a little loose but seems tight enough. Drove the truck with my buddy in passenger seat. His immediate thought was a transmission shudder and to call Toyota. My service girl got me in immediately to check the trans fluid level. They checked and said it was a bit overfilled..and drained some. How much I do not know. The kid who told me this said he felt nothing while driving the truck...so I drove and he rode. Of course I got it to shudder again. He told me he'd take it to a more experienced tech for advice. They reflashed the programming but it did nothing. There answer is that it needs a new torque converter...$1800.00!
This is my EIGHTH Toyota...and third Tacoma!
Never had any transmission issues with ANY OF MY TOYOTA VEHICLES!! Are the parts coming from China now?? 120k miles and needing a torque converter???
I'm VERY PISSED with Toyota at the moment!
Ive taken my truck there many times for oil changes and brake jobs...but I STILL DO NOT TRUST THEM.
Any advice would help!

 

If it is indeed converter clutch shudder (brake tap test can confirm) it's a common problem in many vehicles these days due to the way they lock up the torque converter clutch it's not an issue exculive to Toyota.
That being said many times it can be fixed with an additive and/or minor valve body modifications/repairs.
@gearcruncher can tell you more, meanwhile have a look at the thread below.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

 

I did try on the way home to to hit the brake when it shuttered...but I couldnt really tell anything.
So IF it IS the TC...when u hit the brake...the shuttering should cease??

 

Yes if it's the converter clutch, from the thread I posed above:

DIAGNOSING converter clutch shuddering from home .( BRAKE TAP TEST )

When transmission fluid has been stressed to its limits either from stop and go traffic , overheating , towing , or just day to day heating and cooling cycles , eventually the fluid breaks down and becomes less effective in providing the smooth shifting characteristics that you normally find with new transmission fluid .
The friction modifiers in the fluid have depleted


When the Aisn Seiki A750 series transmission was released back in 2003 , the required fluid change interval was lifetime 100K
Now , Under normal driving operations , Toyota says to change your transmission fluid every 60k ,but this does not take into account Towing or heavy stop and go traffic .
Take a guess at why Toyota changed the fluid service interval from 100K and dropped it to 60 K ????

When friction modifiers become depleted , the most common complaint is torque converter shudder . Your torque converter locking clutch works just like a clutch in a manual transmission but its controlled by the computer in your truck rather than foot operation in a manual transmission
That nasty shake you feel at 45 with your shifter in the overdrive position . Your fluid is depleted and chances are the converter clutch mating surfaces have become all glazed up

Here is how you can test for a converter shudder from home .

Allow the truck to warm to operating temp . Your converter will not lock up when its cold .
Place the shifter into the overdrive position and drive until you feel the converter shudder .
Once you begin feeling the shudder , use the " Brake Tap Test " to see if the shuddering goes away .

As soon as you feel the shudder , use your left foot and gently tap the brake pedal about 1/4 inch down but leave your right foot steady on the gas pedal .
The idea here is not actually hitting the brakes but manipulating the brake switch . Manipulating the brake switch tells the computer that you are coming to a stop . Your computer will then command the converter clutch to the off position for a couple of seconds . When the converter turns off , your shudder is going to go away for a brief moment .
Because , you only tapped the brake pedal to manipulate the brake switch and you still have your right foot steady on the gas pedal , the computer in your truck will then command the torque converter to re-apply the locking clutch and your shudder will instantly return .

How to fix converter clutch shudder ? Read the write up as there are many variables that come into play

Everybody that has shudders calls it a converter shudder but is it really a converter shudder ?
Toyota,s idea to save fuel gets you shifted up to the highest gear possible then they lock the engine directly to the transmission with the locking converter .
A shudder occurs when the clutch inside the converter is commanded on . When the computer in your truck commands the torque converter clutch to apply , a shudder will occur for a split second as the converter clutch mates up against the converter dampener .
If you are experiencing a constant surging or a light bucking feeling after the converter is locked , the issue is no longer considered a converter shudder . The converter was commanded on by the computer in your truck and the clutch inside the converter did its job properly . The converter clutch did not slip as the clutch disc mated with the dampener .

Most members feel surging after the converter is fully locked and this is where things get interesting and you begin to feel it in the drivers seat .
There are hundreds of reasons for surging with these trucks and these tiny issues that cause surging can be incredibly difficult to diagnose . The engine is breaking in , the engine has a very very slight slight misfire , type of fuel , improper balancing of the driveline , a rear tire out of balance by .05 of a gram . a slight warp on the rear brake drums are only a few
When the converter locks directly to the engine, all these tiny issues get amplified X 100 when your sitting in the drivers seat.
Is surging a normal characteristic of the truck as the dealerships state ? it certainly shouldn't be .

 

A good read. I goofed when I took my foot off of the gas. Will do again in the am.
At least there IS a way to be sure its the TC or not.

 

Hold your foot on the brake just enough to light the brake lights that will disengage the converter clutch see what happens.

 

Much appreciated!

 

Following to see where this goes .
A couple questions .
1- Did you have the transmission fluid replaced at 60K
2- When the stealership flushed the transmission 3 weeks ago at 120K, did they have the pan off to clean the magnets and replace the transmission filter ?
Here is why I ask https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-2nd-gen-transmission-pan-and-filter.726329/
3 - when was your last engine tune up ? Spark plugs , throttle body cleaning ?

 

Dont know if it was serviced at 60k...and neither does Toyota. All they did was a flush...no filter cleaning no pan dropping. They did admit thatthere was too much fluid..overfilled. How much they wont say. As far as I can tell...no plugs or tb cleaning as of now. I DO have plugs ordered and I'll be installing them. I did do the brake test at shudder..and do believe that it IS the torque converter...but here's the kicker...when in 4th gear....there's NO SHUDDER!
I realized today that 1st 2nd and 3rd gear s shift at around 1.8 to 2k rpms. 4th to overdrive shifts WAY TO LOW...at around 1400 rpms...and THIS IS WHEN I GET THE SHUDDER...30 to 40mph and low rpms!!
That being said...I think I'm a candidate for the antishake additive. Also...Toyota swears they flashed the trans. computer to set it back to factory. I can tell nothing new IF they did anything!
Without software or a computer...can I reset the transmission? Whats ur recomendations?
For now I'm starting off with the shiftlever in 4th. When I get to 4th gear and 2k rpms I shift to overdrive. No SHUDDER...but I will NOT follow this path for long.
DAMN I miss my 2007 ....had NO ISSUES !!

 

i get similar, usually low load low rpms around 40 mph. I just chalked it up to a glitch somewhere, so ill be following along. I usually shift into 4th if it bothers me. I have 115k on the dial, one drian and fill around 60. I was going to do another soon, and maybe add a bottle of lubeguard.

 

Considering your transmission fluid is new , I would throw a bottle of Lubeguard Platinum at it . This will help with any glazing inside the converter
Do the engine tune up and shuddering will go away

 

This sounds exactly like TQ shudder. If you light foot the throttle in 4th,
The truck will go ahead and shift to 5th. In my opinion, this for MPG gains.
But shifting early can be normal depending on engine load and throttle.

The shudder isn’t normal, and is consider a problem.
With how you describe it. I’d add some LubeGuard.
It’s helped others and it’s much cheaper than a new TQ converter.

 

Mine just started to do this shuddering thing (whole front end vibrates shaking the hood) again like it did 5 years ago.
Last time it did this, it was a ujoint near the trans that failed.

two years ago the axle one went and it shuddered some but no where near as bad. Couldnt feel any play with shaft installed. one cup was worn/binding when i took it off.



280k on mine. Never changed the trans oil. Never towed much. Changed factory plugs at 200k. Never touched TB. factory carrier bearing still.
Still get about 420 miles per tank with no AC running.

I have a clunk when going into D now, so it might be a ujoint again. Ill keep these other tips in mind.

I use 4th if not on highway because i like the way it slows down when taking foot off the gas and under 40, its just feels weird to me crusiing

Like my 95 F350, when i am in 5th doing 30, it shudders like crazy to accelerate from being in too low of RPMs.

 

My dealer specifically told me to NOT flush my trans (90k) miles. Same with my local transmission shop. All it takes is to have the powered flush dislodge a few particles and you can start having Transmisson issues. They both said it's not worth the very small percent of customers that will have an issue after. Prime example right here. Both recommended a pan drop, clean and service with new fluid. I had my local trans shop do it. $180 bucks and the trucks shifted way better after.

 

piggy backing on the OP's current issue, as i have very similar, Should i just add the lubeguard and maybe a little extra WS to check the level, or do a full drain and fill with the lubeguard?

 

Lubeguard will not work unless the fluid was recently replaced and is fairly new . If you are actually getting a converter shudder , all the fluid needs to be replaced then add a bottle of Lubeguard Platinum to remove the glazing on the converter dampner .
I highly suggest a brake tap test .
I highly suggest spark plugs if you havnt done them . They are due every 30K
I highly suggest recording the rpm where you feel the shudder start . 99.9 percent of the time , an engine tune up is needed
That shaking shuddering you feel can be reproduced in the driveway without moving the truck by performing a stall test

 

thats a bunch of BS!

Mine were fine for 200k on my 09 until it idled rough

you must be thinkin of leaded fuel days

 

Copper plugs. Tons of people go way over 100k with no issues but on paper Toyota says 30k

 

I plan on getting some lubeguard shudderfix.
I see others also adding lubeguard atf protectant.
Is lubeguard platinum different from these two products??

 

@gearcruncher, thanks always for your knowledge. Some more to add. My shudder isnt always there to reproduce. Its been hard to get a feel for when it happens, but does seem to happen less in colder weather, like below freezing. I have no hard data on that, just a feeling.

I did the brake tap test. The shudder does go away for a moment, then comes right back. This is usually a pretty fine range when it happens, 38-40 mph. I forgot to grab data on rpm's, but the shudder usually happens when im on relatively flat ground, just barely hitting the throttle to keep momentum going.

The only tuneup item im behind on is the plugs. I last did them at 65k, im at 115k right now. When i did the plugs at 65k, i didnt notice any difference overall, and dont remember if there was any shudder difference or if there was any shudder at the time. Doesnt mean anything now i know

I did pick up a bottle of lube guard and planned to do a drain and fill and add it. I know you said it needs new fluid, im guessing that means not just 4 quarts. Would it hurt anything to try the lubeguard with a D&F? Not too worried about wasting a bottle, just dont want to introduce any issues.