tools needed to change starter on 2009 toyota tacoma

steps to change starter on 2009 tacoma

 

Step 1

Swear

Step 2

Swear more

Step 3

Confirm wether or not you have a 4x4 and or long tube headers if you do proceed to step 4 if not skip step 4

Step 4

Swear more for each 4x4 and or headers

Step 5

Disconnect and remove battery

Step 6

Disconnect the nut from the lead going to the starter you may also need to disconnect the nearby ground for more access.

Step 7

Remove the 14mm head bolts holding the starter to the bell housing.

Step 8

Prepare for a lesson in geometry, having a 4x4 or long tube headers is considered an AP+ class worth 3 credits.

Step 9

Deny you need to remove the headers

Step 10

Try to fight wiggle plead hope cry and beg the starter will slide out because it's just so close to fitting. (It will not)

Step 11

Accept you need to remove your headers as you just don't have the 1/4" you need. (You may if you don't have the off-road/winter/heavy duty starter as the standard one is a tad smaller.)

Step 12

Disconnect the O2 sensor and pull the headers and the bracket holding the flange to the trans to give space to remove the starter.

Step 13

Reassemble in reverse order.


These instructions are based in my first hand experience with a 2010 V6 4x4 TRD O/R Manual trans.

 

There are a few ways to get it out.
Some guys literally take the starter apart.
Others disconnect the steering intermediate shaft.

Other do like @Key-Rei

I’d probably deny the fact I have to remove anything.
And waste half the day.
Then end removing stuff anyways.

Here is a video if you choose to disassemble the starter.
https://youtu.be/MYmlLKz_yoA


Torque specs
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

 

Odd, terse first post for someone who's been on here for 4+ years.

 

Oh yeah I forgot that step.

I did disco and remove the intermediate shaft, I dunno how I forgot as apparently I was off a tooth putting it back in even with match marks and my steering wheel hasn't been perfectly straight since and and I haven't been bothered to rectify it.


Some good info in this some what related thread (Big 3 wiring upgrade, I replaced my starter at the same time since it's all kinda related), link to my post with some pictures:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nch-runs-and-more.712981/page-3#post-26651993

 

Remove the battery? Really?

 

I don’t know why?
I’d just remove the cables. So that when I disconnect the wires at the starter they don’t short.

 

I was referring to Step 5 in Key-Rei post above, which says "disconnect and remove battery." Not very helpful I know

 

The leads that go to starter are coming directly off the battery and they are unfused, do whatever makes you feel safe but I don't want 1,100 amps just chilling with my hands on it and lots of places to ground out too, to fight the starter out you're going to be moving the wiring harness around if you just disconnect the battery and the terminals pop loose and touch again you're in for a surprise.

Removal takes 2 minutes tops.

Plus a good ECU clear and relearn from time to time helps MPG.

 

I re and re'd my starter through the wheel well was able to get mine out with out much grief.

 

I4 ot V6, 2WD or 4x4, auto or manual, HD starter or standard, headers or stock log manifolds, stock mounts or smaller aftermarkets?

I also read it could be removed without much trouble, but it was impossible for me.

V6 4x4 long tubes manual trans stock mounts HD starter.

It wasn't happening for me.

 

V6 4x4 auto and no headers my truck is muscle car with a ls motor in it.

 

Well that's cheatin'.

LS starter, is that one in the valley? I forgor.

 

A 4.0 Starter is no fun. It ain’t easy

I almost alway disconnect the battery when doing any thing that involves wiring.

I’d rather be safe, than sorry.

 

Wow, who knew these starters are in such a difficult place? Hope mine keeps going. But if it fails I would probably try this method since my exhaust manifold bolts are in real bad rusty shape. I'd be worried about rounding them or breaking them off. Good video, but it doesn't show how on earth he gets the starter disassembled and reassembled in that tight place. I bet lots of cursing would be involved... and I am not sure my big hands could even fit in there.

 

I wonder what the dealer book rate is for this? And what happens if they can't get the exhaust manifold off without a lot of drama? Or do their techs fudge and do the disassembly method?

 

The Tacoma looks easy compared to the 2nd gen Tundra 5.7s, 1 exhaust pipe and steering shaft (according to FSM, I don't see any reason to do anything with the exhaust, steering shaft maybe) although I suppose if your in the rust belt it would be a challenge.

The Tundra starter is behind the RH exhaust manifold (must be removed along with the Y pipe and some heat shields to even see the starter) and the start wire connector is guaranteed to break so you have to replace that too.

Book time on a Tundra is 5.8 hrs vs 1.2 for the Tacoma, I got the Tundras down to under 3 if no bolts break or round off.

Looking under mine again it looks like you could remove the left front wheel, unbolt the brake line brackets, and sneak it out through the opening or unbolt the front driveshaft and go out the bottom.
I would imagine a good set of swivel sockets and extensions would be a plus to to have.

I could be totally wrong here not having done one on a 4wd taco myself but I've done some shitty starters and this one looks relatively easy.
If I get one in to do (or my own) I'll try to remember to document it.

 

There are two different starters for 2nd gen V6's?

 

Some serious restraint and/or lurking, lol............

 

Yes sir, the TRD off-road manuals got the larger starter as you can do the clutch start cancel with them and basically drive the truck with the starter even if the engine isn't running or won't run, or if you stall out on a hill and can't roll back and just don't have enough feet/hands you can drive forward and start in gear and Toyota gave a bigger starter to those trucks in order to handle that. You could also get it with any V6 truck that was spec'ed as "cold climate".

The difference is about an inch in length of the motor and solenoid body but the face mounting is the same and visually if you don't have them side by side to compare they look the same in pictures.

To the best of my knowledge you can put the heavy duty starter (which I believe Toyota calls the 1.8 KW whereas the normal is a 1.4 KW IIRC) in any truck that had the smaller one if you so choose you just have to order the cold climate higher kw rated starter or say you have a TRD off-road manual.

But also keep in mind with it being larger bodied it is a bit more of a bear to install and remove.