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To cut or not to cut... wheel studs.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by NightProwler, Oct 2, 2017.

  1. Oct 2, 2017 at 6:53 PM
    #1
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so here's my predicament..
    Currently have 1/4" spacers up front with extended studs. Got some 3/4" bora bolt ons. I've read that some got their spacers on fine with oem studs, and some didnt. Not sure if that's due to their wheels having the pockets or not, but my wheels have a flat surface. So even if I put new oem length studs in, they may not fit. Or are there shorter studs that will work?

    But on the other hand, you've got guys cutting their studs! I hadn't considered this as it does sound like a bad idea. And tried to find some validity/truth to the whole debate on the tensil strength and weakening argument, associated with cutting studs. It does make a lil sense. But the more I thought about it, it really wouldn't get hot enough to effect the entire stud. Basically the top where it was cut. To which your lug goes way past that point where it may have potentially been weakened. Right?

    I mean, if it's safe enough, it seems like a better route to go to have guaranteed fitment the first time. Versus potentially spinning any studs in the hub, as I've already swapped in the extended studs... But it should be fine. I'm just trying to weigh the risks of both options. I'd hate to have put in oem length studs only to have those be a hair too long as well and have to swap/cut those...

    Found this too:

    So Idk.. I'm no expert..
    Question again, is to cut, or not and source new studs. And which studs albeit oem/shorter.
     
  2. Oct 2, 2017 at 6:57 PM
    #2
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    I have 1" BORA spacers, the stock studs are just a hair shy of the spacer mounting surface, so I would say that you would have to cut for 3/4" spacers either way.
    And no, unless you are using an acetylene torch to cut your wheel studs, they will not lose any strength. They are Grade 8 (at least the OEM ones are) and are more than strong enough as long as you're getting full thread engagement.
    I would just chop the ones you have on there.
     
    NightProwler[OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 2, 2017 at 6:59 PM
    #3
    00yotasr5

    00yotasr5 Well-Known Member

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    Front wheel stud are shorter than the rear. No clue as to why toyota did that. If your wheels are able to be bolted down dont see a reason to cut them shorter.
     
  4. Oct 2, 2017 at 7:03 PM
    #4
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow that was fast. And reassuring. Thanks mate. Id still like to hear more debate on this subject tho. Got me intrigued. Kept reading about people highly suggesting to get new studs. But are there even any shorter ones available if one was to go that route? Seems like someone has had to have done this before with different studs..
     
    drr[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Oct 2, 2017 at 7:14 PM
    #5
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ... I have extended studs. And spacers are needed regardless. I'm gonna see if tundra brakes will clear a set of 16's I got with the 3/4" bora spacers. And I do not wanna go with anything bigger than 3/4". Even with my current 15' s, the wheels don't clear the oem calipers. Thus why the 1/4" spacers are on now. Was like that when I bought it and finally trying to do it better. And if it turns out the tundra brakes will not clear, I'll just end up ditching that idea and stick with my 15's. To which the bolt on spacers will also be better still, than the 1/4" ones.
    Yeah I know, sounds like a shit show, but just a project I'm messing around with and very particular with the route I wanna go. Hoping it all works out the way I want.
     
  6. Oct 2, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #6
    00yotasr5

    00yotasr5 Well-Known Member

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    yeah no 15s will clear the tundra brakes. Some 16s dont even clear but running 3/4 spacer would make them clear.
     
  7. Oct 2, 2017 at 8:08 PM
    #7
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    Just about any 16's should clear with 3/4" spacers, there are very few that don't clear by themselves.
    You can get just about any length lug studs you want, plenty of reputable manufacturers like ARP make them in all lengths and sizes.
     
  8. Oct 2, 2017 at 8:32 PM
    #8
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool Cool. Hadnt looked into the stud options yet. But I'll probably end up cutting the ones I have on there. Dont remember exactly what they are. Lexus studs tho. And were expensive. Seems a waste to toss and buy more if I can just cut em.
     
  9. Oct 2, 2017 at 9:58 PM
    #9
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Here's a fitment guide to check your wheels for 13WL tundra caliper clearance. Print it, glue to a file folder and then cut it out.
     

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  10. Oct 2, 2017 at 10:00 PM
    #10
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Already did mate;)
     
  11. Oct 2, 2017 at 10:01 PM
    #11
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    They fit?
     
  12. Oct 2, 2017 at 10:02 PM
    #12
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    You could always run the 1/4 spacer under the 3/4 inch spacers............:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::anonymous::crapstorm:
     
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  13. Oct 2, 2017 at 10:12 PM
    #13
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Seems like it. But it'll be super close. Wanna be 100% sure by test fitting the calipers. Either way, the spacers need to go on so I can at least get rid of the 1/4" spacer washers. Then I can move on to the brakes and wheels. I'll just return the tundra calipers if they dont clear.
     
  14. Oct 2, 2017 at 10:14 PM
    #14
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    I'd trim studs with a cutoff wheel
     
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  15. Oct 2, 2017 at 11:15 PM
    #15
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I'd use a hacksaw cutting about 1/1000" a day with ice packed around the studs so they don't overheat - that way by the time you're through your first one your lbj is good to explode and you can rebuild the front end completely. That or oil will not be the preferred source of energy anymore and you won't be driving anywhere. Whichever happens first. :notsure:
     
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  16. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:34 PM
    #16
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I've decided to go with shorter studs.. And am having a hard time finding some. Anyone have some tips? Trying to find some that match the stock ones, just shorter. I gotta pull a stud and measure it to figure out the exact length I need for these 3/4" spacers, but having a hard time finding a place that has some with matching specs as far as knurl diameters go and whatnot..
     
  17. Oct 9, 2017 at 5:37 PM
    #17
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I was joking about the hack saw, but you could totally do that.
     
  18. Oct 9, 2017 at 6:37 PM
    #18
    NightProwler

    NightProwler [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Decided to go ahead and try the hack saw. And it worked surprisingly well! Lol. Didn't think it would work good.. Got a second stud cut now. But I need to get some different blades. One stud and my blade is dull. Ha. I first tried a cutoff wheel but the wheel I had was pretty thick, and was sketchy af trying to use that. And heated it up quite a bit. Fuck that shit. Ha...

    Cool well I'll try to get them all with the hack saw then. Even if it takes a bunch of blades, better than using that grinder with a cutoff wheel!! Was resesrching studs but still couldn't find anything close to what I needed. Arp site doesn't even show much.. All I could seem to find was the extended Lexus studs I have in there now.
     
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  19. Oct 9, 2017 at 7:17 PM
    #19
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    If I remember correctly. I used rear studs on the front. For some reason they were a little longer.
     
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  20. Oct 9, 2017 at 7:36 PM
    #20
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Just hit the threads with sand paper if they give you any trouble when threading on a nut the first time. I had to go at some boogered threads on some ball joints and went at them with my dremel for a couple hours getting them usable again. Someone recommended this for (hopefully there won't be) next time - it's got the major thread sizes for our trucks:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LEGYPK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     

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