Time to replace lower ball joints?

I noticed my LBJs are weeping grease lately. I haven't detected any noises or issues, just this grease. Truck has 111k miles and these are likely the original stock ball joints. I drive it 5 miles each way to work, but I also do a fair amount of off-road driving.

Is the grease seepage normal? Or a sign to replace them, and if so, urgently or can it wait a week or two? I have a trip planned this weekend, cousin flying in from the other side of the country.

 

Not normal, time to replace. They are sealed and can't be greased.

 

Never a bad idea to replace the ball joints on these trucks. Common fail item. Easy enough to replace and not too expensive if I recall. I’d change them.

 

The grease coming out heavily like that is enough to warrant replacing them but it's also a good idea to check them for play like so

https://www.youtube.com/embed/tqw85L_sMgE

Any up/down movement in the joint that you can see means you need to replace them. There's a tiny bit of play Toyota says is normal but you need a special tool to measure it

 

Do you think they can make a 600 mile trip (mostly road, maybe 30 miles off-road)?

I just don't know if I can get the ball joints quickly enough to change them before 3am rollout on Friday. Local dealer usually doesn't have 1st gen stuff in stock, but I'll give a call over there.

 

I would check them for play before determining that

They're easy to do, if you can source them before Friday I would make it a priority to change them out for the peace of mind if it were me.

 

Just replace them; doesn't take long.

You'll want new bolts that secure the LBJ as well. Cotter pins can be had at any auto parts store.

 

I'm going to buy OEM Toyota parts, from what I've read they include the castle nut and cotter pin right?

Any idea on specs or part numbers for the bolts?

 

yeah should come with them if I remember right.

If you're closest dealer doesn't have them in stock, ask them to check who does. That's how I got mine, had to drive about 30 min to another dealer but they had what I needed

 

My OEMs came with castle nuts, cotter pins, and the 4 bolts for mounting to the knuckle. I didn't think they came with the bolts so I ordered extra. Now I have 8 extra mounting bolts that I'll most likely never use.

 

Good to know! If mine don't come with bolts, maybe I'll buy yours if you don't plan on keeping them?

Also, I just jacked the truck up and used the pry bar to test for vertical play -- NONE whatsoever. I think I'm good to order parts online and save myself nearly $200. Slightly annoying that parts cost more at my local dealers than they do at other dealers, but whatever.

I noticed the weeping of grease after driving through the Carson river a couple of times on a trip about a month ago. I just assumed the river had something to do with it, as it was deep enough to reach the top edge of the front bumper. In any case, thanks for the guidance yall!

 

Should I go ahead and do the upper ball joints as well? They're much cheaper.

 

Most times dealerships will match the price of online parts especially if the online price is from another dealership. They mark them way up to make as much $$ as possible but at the end of the day they want to make a sale. That's been my experience with ours here in SoCal. Just print out the online estimate and show it to them, worst they'll say is no

 

Make sure you buy Genuine Toyota Parts. You can pay for expedited shipping if you want 2-day delivery.

I wouldn't bother with the upper ball joints at this time because they don't seem to cause problems.

Oh, and don't forget , the front end needs to be realigned after you replace them. I sure wouldn't drive 600 miles without an alignment, nor would I drive a mile with leaky ball joints.

 

I did.. It rides better. Removed the harshness from worn suspension components.

 

Like others said its probably a good idea to do both, but probably not needed before your trip. I wouldnt drive 600 miles on the lbjs though

Every time I order parts from the dealership near me they have it the next day. Id just call your closest dealer and get em from them. My dealer will not match internet pricing, but Ive now gone there enough they throw me a discount when I ask for it.

 

Generally, the rule of thumb is never do any major work right before a trip. However, if you can swing it, I'd replace the lowers.

For the lowers, go buy yourself a pitman arm puller from harbor freight or some other auto parts store. That's the only special tool you need to replace the lowers. The 4 bolts have a deceptively low torque spec too, 59 ft lbs iirc, so if you have a torque wrench, use it. If not, the German "goodentight" works in a pinch. Don't remember the torque spec on the castle nuts, but once you reach the proper torque, you'll want to over tighten them if you need to line up the cotter pin, don't loosen the nut to install the cotter pin.

Quite honestly, if you REALLY need parts asap, I wouldn't be afraid to go with auto parts store parts, at least to get you rolling on your trip. If you can't find local source for the OEM, go to AutoZone and pick some up. I'm no fan of the cheap parts store brands, but will easily last you thru your 600 mile trip. They don't instantly explode when they touch your truck.

When all said and done, it should take you maybe 30 minutes per side for the lowers, assuming you don't struggle with rusty bolts. Just jack it up, support the frame, remove wheels and lower shock bolts, and pop the 2 castle nuts free, then the 4 bolts. I'm in the camp that if you replace apples for apples, (oem for oem) you shouldn't need an alignment, but if you have the time, you may as well get one.

Since you're in a time crunch, I'd leave the uppers for later, they aren't the problem child. Uppers are easier(ish) as long as you rent the proper ball joint press. Most auto parts stores rent them for free.

 

Definitely bought OEM Toyota parts. And yeah, I bought a 3-year unlimited alignment--we're on a first name basis over there lol

Upper ball joints are leaking too, fyi. I just didn't post a pic because they aren't leaking nearly as bad.

 

For the uppers, it's really up to you and if 1) you can get your parts in time, and 2) if it'll keep you up at night. Like I said, the uppers aren't known for failing like the lowers are, but if you have the right tools, it shouldn't take too long to do.

 

I borrowed the heavy duty ball joint press kit from Advance Auto for the uppers. The smaller kits didn't have enough reach.