Tie Rod Ends on top?

I read/saw somewhere that someone who was building a race truck style build, recommended keeping the steering components as level as possible. So my question is, why don’t we put our tie rod ends on top of the spindle (upside down) to keep the rod more level thus having less strain on the rack? Is there not enough room during suspension travel? Or is there just no benefit?

Im about to replace my rack and have PRG heim rod ends to go with it and was thinking, why not put them *upside down* so my tie rods are essentially parallel to the ground and have less strain on the steering rack. Or am I just trying to create a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist lol

 

After a little more research I’m now seeing how this will cause bump steer issues

 

For one thing, the openings are coned and the rods, and BJ’s, go in one way.

 

So I wouldn’t have even been able to if I tried lol

 

I just installed mine, awesome product, very smooth steering.

 

Good to hear! Looks good too. I’m doing the exact same set up, just waiting on WarFab to ship out the next batch of tie rod sleeves.

 

All the arms need to be the same angle. Same reason why I removed the diff drop kit

 

Yeah I’d like to do that but want the 934 cv axles which can handle being at more of an angle

 

It looks like you're missing the double part of that double sheer steer kit, I would not trust that. That heim really should be supported on both sides.

 

PRG sells heim outer tie rod ends that just replace the ball joint ends. No double shear required. Now as for the strength of it that’s up for debate. Are you concerned the bolt will just shear in half under stress?

 

Yeah. Well maybe not in half but the head snap off, seen it happen before though is a different application.

I recognize it's like a 5/8th grade 8 which is ridiculously strong in clamp load but grade 8 are often a bit brittle and I don't know how long that head is going to stay attached when it's constantly receiving impact side load from road and trail forces vs the forged ball joint shank that gets essentially press fit under torque into the knuckle. Especially when the misalignment cup can slide in all the way easily, at least they have in my experience. That one or two thou of play might be imperceptible to the touch but I'm sure it's leverage is getting transferred to that bolt head.

Maybe I'm paranoid though just never seen heims used like that without the double shear tab to support the other end.

 

Not worried about it, I have ran this setup for years on a Jeep. Ran many trails at Moab for years. Never had a problem. Thanks for your concern brother.

 

Right on, if it's good it's good.

 

that’s absolutely correct.

 

Almost 2 years in now, no problems at all, no bump steer or sheared bolts.
Just did a refresh with new camlock adjusters, Toyota OEM axles, OEM seals, some new UCA, and bearings from the member who sells them here. I got no fear or worries with the PRG heim joint ends. Hope it all worked out for you to.

 

Edit: 2022 thread, bah, leaving it

If you could flip the cone taper it would be a crazy good mod.

Tie rod angles are 100% part of bump steering issues.

Drop brackets hold this advantage over standard lifts.

 

All this stuff it’s on 6” lift kit. So it makes sense on a non OEM spindle. Keep on wheelin’

 

Ya if someone could make a knuckle for 3” lift it would be worth while.

Wonder if the pre runner knuckle lift flips the tie rod.

 

Yeah I’ve been running them for a while now and they’ve been totally fine!