Threadlocker for bolts on lifted trucks?

Has anyone ever tried applying Threadlocker, or any other type of semi-permanent adhesive on the bolts for their upgraded suspension parts? After having to check my parts every so often to make sure that there aren't any loose nuts that need to be re-tightened, especially on the U-Bolts on the rear axle, I thought about this adhesive and figured this would eliminate the hassle.
Has anyone ever done this before? If so, did this method keep your parts from vibrating free after lots of heavy off-roading?

 

It changes the torque specs of the bolts, other than that it shouldn't hurt. You could also get a paint pen and draw a line across the bolt or nut and the surrounding metal to quickly notice any loosening. Or go old school and safety wire them.....

 

If you're a serious offroader, you should be checking all your suspension out for loose nuts and bolts anyways before every trip. Shit even after every time you go out. Had a guy who checked his religiously every trip, went out for a night run, checked everything when he got up the next morning, found a bunch of suspension bolts finger tight and a few hanging in by a couple threads. Loctite would help prevent that, yes, but it can also make you lazy and forget to check what you should be checking.

I'm not saying don't use it, I'm only saying don't get lazy and assume it's doing its job 24/7. Loctite ain't the end all to securing nuts lol

 

I wouldn't.......

I'd be more likely to use Anti-seize.

I've worked with thread lockers enough at my former job. Loc-tite is a liquid. It's only to help prevent bolts from coming loose. Loctite works great when you're talking about standard sized bolts....#8, #10, 1/4X20's, 3/8x13 etc in applications that don't require much torque.

Suspension parts? The bolts are HUGE. The torque & pressure's involved on them are HUGE. The torque applied to these bolts are much higher. Do you really think a tiny layer of liquid is going to keep the bolts from coming loose?

You need to check your bolts regularly. If you're consistently having trouble with your bolts coming loose - You could get new bolts & nuts (threads might be messed up). The Ubolts could have stretched (never reuse old ubolts). Or.... get lock-nuts (not the nylon type). I've used a secondary nut on the outside of the original nut (tighten one against the other).

 

This ^

Thread lockers aren't a solution to a problem like this, suspension bolts (esp. U-bolts) are the type that are stretching for the first couple hundred miles, which is first and foremost why retorquing is absolutely key. The size of the bolt doesn't change the application of Loctite 242 (blue) is good for fasteners of any size to prevent rattling loose - essentially it's a compound designed for fasteners that are installed/removed regularly. Red Loctite, 271, is designed for semi-permanent installation; it's the recommended thread locking compound for use on things such as wheel adapters for the inner lug nuts, items that will rarely see a wrench after their installation, and these bolts are the same size, or often bigger than those of suspension bolts depending on the vehicle and see similar torque values (I do mine 120ft/lb).

The issues with loctiting bolts, is that when you retorque, you're breaking the bond of the loctite, thus rendering its application pointless. The threads on bolts and fasteners of any kind are finely machined enough that the "tiny bit of liquid" is mating the two surfaces, and bonds between the two enough so to prevent (with proper application) rattling free when properly torqued down. I only use loctite on fasteners that I know will infrequently see a wrench, or are unlikely to need to be removed.

Things like u-bolts, leaf spring bolts, strut/coilover fasteners, etc. etc., maintenance items, yada yada, I'll put a thin layer of anti-seize on the threads (note: like already mentioned, this reduces effective torque value by a small percentage. see here for examples). The anti-seize is a great lubricant for these applications because it allows you to consistently re-check the bolts throughout your suspension system without dealing with metalergically bonded hardware, rusted hardware, or loctited bolts (red loctite should be thought of as lightly and purposefully rusting two fasteners together, same basic principle).

I'm also a fan of anti-seize because I've had a long history of drilling out rusted hardware on my old Jeep, luckily not so much on my Taco.

There's also another level of loctite that is a really permanent bond, it's green (not sure the code), it's harder to find, and it's a very viscous material, it's typically designed to permanently bond two pressfit components, or a bolt/nut. This loctite is thin to get into tight spaced and rather than simply hardening, it expands as it cures to affix the two components to each other with pressure and bonding.

#boltnerd

 

Coming from a heavy machinery back ground I'm a firm believer in thread lockers so much so that I prefer them to locking washers and other mechanical locks. We didn't have time to inspect dump trucks and other machines between shifts so it had to be right the first time. The question is not if it will work as the answer is yes, but rather choosing the correct formula.

By comparison to what Loctite was designed for the bolts on our trucks are tiny and the torque loads are minimal. For suspension bolts that you can apply heat should you need to remove them I like 262 or 273. I use these on shackle boots where they meat the frame and the nuts on the u-bolts. If I need to heat them to remove them it's no big deal. For the bolts that run through the bushings I use 2074 as it will break free without heating. I will tell you that I'm not a fan of the pastes and tapes that are out now. Im old school and like the liquids.

I'm not saying that you can simply put it together and forget about it but it lessens the likelihood of something falling off on you.

 

I've used the green.....the 1989 Grand Cherokee D44 we had. Went to install new bearing race in the housing and it wasn't as 'press fit' as it should. The Green worked great to help seat the bearing race. It lasted for many years. We sold the rig and it was still in place.