Things needed for a 2.5-3inch lift

Hey y’all, I was wondering if anyone could help with a break down of components needed for a 2.5-3in lift. I’m going with Coil-overs for the front and a leaf pack in the rear, just wondering what I need in reguards to axle alignment, breaklines and such.

Much appreciated!

 

All 2nd/3rd gen Tacomas use a coilover front suspension design already.

 

UCA's, extended brake lines, CB drop

 

No diff drops or axle shines needed?
Thanks for response.

 

money

 

Diff drops are 100% useless. I have not used axle shims and have not had any issues.

 

Thanks man! That is good to know.

 

read, then read again.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...acoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/unread

subject has been discussed extensively

 

To his defense, I clicked on that link and there are close to 180 pages lol. That’s a lot of reading.

I was actually wondering the same thing. I see kits come with dif drops and some don’t. Some with the shims some don’t. Some with extended break lines and some don’t. The kit I ordered the guy said it comes with everything needed but didn’t have any of that stuff lol. So who knows.

 

However the answers are there, along with well over 100 build threads. If your going to offroad extended brake lines are needed, this too has been covered. I took about 18 months of reading and deciding what was needed. Take some time and read. Get it right the first time and be happy with the changes you made and understand why you decided on those changes.

Actually the build threads will give you the best idea's of what is really needed. However I'll do a short list.

Coilovers & Rear Shocks(King/ADS/Bilstien/OME/Icon), pick your budget.
Upper Control Arms, anything greater than a 2" lift.
Add a leaf or leaf pack (Icon/Dakar/Deaver), pick your budget.
Carrier Bearing drop kit. Some need, some don't. Buy it anyways.
Extended brake lines. The first time you flex the rear you'll stretch or rip the stock ones out.
Front Differential Drivers side clamshell bushing, ECGS(East Coast Gear Supply). If you don't do it, you eventually will, more sooner than later.

after install an alignment is needed, Caster target is 4 degrees.

Side Note: This alone will not guarantee 285's otherwise known as 33's to fit. Thats a thread unto its own.

 

That is exactly the info I was looking for, so thank you very much! I have read a majority of that thread ages ago but was looking for a quick recap without trying mess around with the 180 pages. Not trying to be lazy just was looking for specifics. Again thank you for taking the time to spread your knowledge!

 

Thanks for the info as well!

 

Glad I could help a bit. Look at the build threads, there are some really nice setups in there.

 

Extended brake lines are probably not needed unless you go with extended struts in the rear. Not needed for OME or standard 5100 rear shocks. Axle shims are better solution than carrier bearing drop; I've had both now a firm believer in shims. Clam shell bushing... get it when you need it. No point in replacing the needle bearing right away, most are fine.... cross that bridge if and when you get there.

What you need is
Front struts and coils, and if you want to keep your stock coilovers assembled as spares you also need top hat/bushings/retainers to assemble struts and coils.

Rear end you need either a leafpack or add-a leaf and struts, shims and new U bolts.

Thats all you “need”. Upper control arms are a good idea to get your caster in spec.

I highly recommend pulling apart your alignment cams and greasing them when you work on the front end and need an alignment anyways.

 

I'm late to this thread, but are there any suspension kits that we know can fit ~33in tires? Thanks for this info!

 

It is really not the suspension that limits the tire size, it is the body interference that limits tire diameter and width. In most cases you will need to heavily modify or remove your front mud guards and more than likely do a minor CMC (cab mount chop) to ensure zero tire/body contact. Higher modifications are needed with the increase of negative offset of the rims (or wheel spacers) as well as increased tire width. To gain the most clearance on your front tires the LCA's need to be adjusted so the rear most cam adjusters are rotated to the outside, which is to say increasing the caster degree as much as possible with the LCA's. Doing this moves the front tires as far forward as possible within the limitations of LCA cam adjusters.

 

Thank you! So basically I need to select a suspension setup based on my driving style(s), not on wheel/tire set up. Then I can cut or add spacers if needed depending on my wheel offset and tire width. This is my first truck so this is a new world for me. It sounds like I need to do my suspension first and then see what will work best wheel and tire wise.