The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

Good info here that I still want to confirm, as my truck needs to fit in the garage. Height is one of the few things they don't list under Specs on the website. My garage is 7 ft. Measuring it is 80.5 inches floor to door at the front of the garage and 82.5 at the back. My truck (stock) currently measures 49.5" tall at the front of the bed and 50.5" tall at the rear. So if the camper is 29" that makes a height of 79.5" and 78.5" back to front.

Assuming additional weight for some build out, what do people typically do in terms of beefing up their suspension? I saw reference a couple pages back to adding a leaf or upgrading shocks. I've also seen comments about air bags. I plan to use a hitch-mounted moto rack (Joe Hauler) with a RakAttach to carry my motorcycle. That is probably an additional 400lbs right there. I normally put the moto in the box now as I don't like the way the truck rides when it is on the rack. So some kind of upgrade will be needed for that and for the camper.

One question though - when the moto rack is not in use, is it possible to tell how much higher the rear of the truck will sit? I am constrained by the height of the garage door. Seems like I only have an inch to play with and I'd like to leave a bit of wiggle room there. Are there options that will stiffen things up without adding height? At least this will keep me from doing something silly like a lift kit.

Maybe I can have the tracks adjusted for the roll up door so it's a bit higher?

Any input appreciated!

 

based on your set up and where you are wanting to go i think airbags might be the best. That way you can air them up when you have more weight and or air them down to maybe fit in the garage. Its going to be a tight fit thats for sure your adding a-lot of weight too the rear end.

 

hey yall - edited my original bed rail post. I think it's best to take a wait-and-see approach for what SP comes up with as the recommendation for 2nd gen beds.

 

Thanks. Anyone have other thoughts they can add?

I did some additional measuring with the truck backed in various distances. The lane slopes away from the garage door so when the end of the box is right below the end of the door there is only about 29 1/2" between top of bed rail and the door. That is the spot where it is most restricted. If I can have the opener pull the door forward a bit more so that end raises I should be ok.

 

I’m in a similar boat with a strict 6’9” headroom. I think it will work but might be damn tight. I’ve got airbags, though, so can adjust my optimal height if needed

 

I installed a genie opener and when I did I had to tell it how far to pull the door up. Maybe yours has adjustments / settings unless it goes off on a switch (mechanical). Aka when the door comes up the thing on rail triggers a button at a certain position.

 

Any news from Super Pac?
Been wanting to see some more campers in the wild

 

Hot damn, that was easy. Dug up the manual and it was as simple as turning a limit adjusting screw, 1 revolution per 2" of limit adjustment. Moved it 4" out of 6" needed to get it fully level. I now have full 82" height from floor to door at the opening. I may be able to eek out another 1/2" by moving it forward another inch or two. Or clear another 1" if I cut off a horizontal ridge with a sawzall.

I still need to sort out a way to carry the moto. Worst case I could get an extender and beef it up with a second or third arm if the Rakattach doesn't work. If I can get the tailgate down I can step off the side. Not ideal but I could live with that compromise.

I'm a total newb when it comes to suspension. What's involved in changing ride height using air bags? I'll have onboard air. But I'm the type who likes to set it and forget it. Usually, I am just forgetful.

 

you can get really tricky and plumb it in with a tank, solenoid, etc and adjust with the push of a button - i also have OBA and just check/fill/adjust every few weeks as needed. It's just a schrader valve nipple for each side.

 

I think it will also depend if its light off road or some more technical trails. if you do the airbags it will help on weight they are shit with any real offraod driving and prone to ripping. This topic came up a week ago in one of the vagabond threads. You def will want to upgrade springs. I would suggest weighin the truck as it sits now. or with the bike if you can. You can then estimate 3-400 for the shell with gear (maybe more) to get an approximate weight. This stuff adds up really fast. I am sitting at 7k lbs.

 

airbags dont usually rip if you also install daystar cradles

 

I have never installed them but the feedback was people with daystar setups. They are great for weight but not great for off road duties. Just depends on how the truck is going to be used. if more then light duty trails better to look into a matched leaf back and correctly valved shocks. Wont have the ability to adjust but it will ride waaaaay better.

 

If you have constant weight, springs are the best way to go. If you are constantly going up and down by large amounts (500+ lbs), then airbags can be better since you can adjust them.

 

I would agree with that. Really comes down to use case. Heavy wheeling, constant weight changes etc. pros/cons to each.

 

Thanks guys. Looks like I have more research to do. The camper will obviously stay on the truck. Along with most of whatever I build out inside. The moto and rack would have to come off between trips. That will probably be 350-400lbs there.

I'm not into any hardcore off roading. Some steep/rough roads but not looking at anything a stock 4x4 DBCB truck can't handle. I plan to upgrade to better tires when the stock ones wear out but not planning lifts or suspension upgrades beyond what is required to handle the weight above.

 

It would be trick if you could connect it to the TPMS and have pressure display on the dash screen. But that might be asking too much.

 

I pulled my bed caps in preparation for my diy wedge camper I’m finishing up. My bedrails had a lot of paint worn through to the metal.

I debated whether or not to buy caps, make caps, or just run the bare bedrail. I ended up tracing the bed caps and then taping it off and bedlining them yesterday. I’m really happy with how it turned out.





Then I’m just going to seal with butyl tape like ripcord did in his build thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-diy-wedge-camper.604686/#post-20377383

I had a hard time spending almost $300 on the kbvoodoo caps to just cover them up with the camper. (Their shipping rate to Oregon is nuts)

If you do decide to get metal caps Vagabond also sells a set that Relentless makes for them. They’re not on the website and they told me to call for prices but I never bothered. I’m happy with my $20 option and the metal caps don’t wrap around to cover where my plastic caps had rubbed the paint off anyway so I still would’ve had to do some kind of painting.

 

easy you can get an external monitor and get some external TPMS sensors. I have those on mine since my stock ones may be dead. Def possible. -=)

 

nice! it would be good to understand what super pacific plans to do. My current shell has a similar bulb seal but the added butyl sound deadening is a nice touch. (shits hard to remove but make sense)

 

When I did my headlight retrofit last year i learned the citrus based goo gone takes it right off. Dissolves and wipes right off!