The alignment compromise. Caster vs. camber

So I finished my lift with no issues. Pretty much exactly 2” on 884 5100 and 3 leaf aal. I have done plenty of home alignments to rough it out before I go and pay for a pro alignment. Working the cam bolts in the control arm it became clear some sort of compromise needed to be struck. I started by pushing the rear control arm bolt out as far as possible to max potential positive caster and negative camber. On the left side I was able to use the front control arm bolt to achieve 0* camber with a camber gauge. On the right side, not so lucky. Maxing the front cam bolt I was not able to achieve 0 camber. It was slightly positive.

Where it gets interesting, is measuring wheelbase, the right side showed longer (which indicates more positive caster) than the left. I was able to adjust the front cam bolt on the left side to increase positive camber and wheelbase until they both equaled the right side. Then I zeroed out toe and whent for a ride.

Overall it was pretty good for a home alignment, but I do notice some on center vagueness that was not there before. That is an indication of not enough positive caster. So I know there is some potential in the front cam bolt adjustment to increase positive caster. However it will create positive camber to do so. I was surprised the factory camber spec does call for 0-1* positive camber.

I have not gotten the pro alignment yet so I do know what my exact specs are. But it is clear to increase caster I will need to increase positive camber. How much is ok? Where would you set it for?

I will be running 265/70/17 tires fwiw. Thanks.

 

In my opinion, as soon as you lift even a little, you need UCAs if you want a decent amount of camber and caster.

Eventually id try for 0.0 to neg 1.0 camber and caster somewhere around 2.5 - 3.5

 

There is zero chance of achieving -1* camber even completely ignoring caster. 0 camber May be possible but not maximizing caster.

I guess the question is how much positive camber can be tolerated in the quest for maximum caster?

 

And I agree, a little lift will knock you out of the optimal alignment range.

 

You'll have to decide that for yourself.

Are the alignment cams seized? Do they have their full range of movement?

 

Should be

Camber at OEM
Toe at OEM
Caster at 3.5 +/- .5

 

The cams are at full range. Pulled each one out and greased them.

So what is oem spec for camber?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/unread

I'm no expert but I would expect inside tire wear if you can't get camber close to 0. The question is is there something bent or worn that is preventing you from getting camber close. Lower ball joint or wheel bearing could create excess camber. Especially since you say it's mostly on one side.

 

You don't want negative camber on trucks.

I usually shoot for 2.5+ caster and 0.5+ camber on lifted tacomas. I balance it as best possible.

 

I'm at 4.0-4.4 degrees caster on my truck with 0.5 to 0.9 camber on SPC UCAs. Drives like it's on rails.

 

Interesting, I will bring it in to get the actual specs. I am expecting them to say something like 2.5+ caster is doable with +1 camber. Maybe 2.0+ caster with .5+ camber. It sounds like I do need some positive camber anyway.

I will prioritize positive caster until it hits 1-1.5+ camber. That seems like the reasonable limit.

 

That vague steering is sometimes related to 0 toe to toed out . I toed mine in at home 1/16" to be sure its in spec 0-3/32. I also have a bit more sidewall than OE having 34" tall tires so I favor a slight amount of toe to be safe with tire wear also.

 

That's a good point on TOE. The reality is I do not know what my actual numbers are. I just want to be prepared when they come to me with "X caster can be achieved but with Y camber".

Truth be told, it does drive pretty good. Especially for a home alignment.

 

I also prefer a slight toe in with my truck to help with tire wear.

 

What's wrong with neg camber?

 

Agreed with all of this.

 

My Caster is about 1.7.... Too low. Truck is drivable but twitchy. A bit annoying, actually. It's not unsafe, I guess as I've gotten used to it.

 

If you still have stock UCA's and thats the best caster setting they can come up with then I would say get new after market uppers. 3-3.75 degrees caster would be great and 0 camber. It should be no problem to get those settings with good adjustable uppers.

 

Yeah. I have my SPCs kicked forward to try to avoid the CMC. Didn't work, but helped. Anyway I need to adjust the alignment plate on top to the recommended setting and chop the cab mount and get a new alignment. Oh well. I tried.

 

I switched mine from E to D to gain more caster and Im still fine rub wise . I mashed the pinch weld and trimmed a bit of the inner part of the flare a while back when I was at D setting before . I like the increase in caster and so far I have not rubbed the body mount yet but have not been off road. I just maxed the cams for caster , 0 the camber and 1/16 toe in