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testing fuel pressure

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JustADriver, Nov 22, 2022.

  1. Nov 22, 2022 at 6:19 PM
    #1
    JustADriver

    JustADriver [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I want to test fuel pressure. The crank time is longer when it's been sitting a short time vs immediate restart, and a poster here suggested it's pressure bleed off.

    I'm having a hard time finding instructions online for this model, and the FSM is confusing to me.

    I'll start up with the EFI fuse removed to depressurize the line, and disconnect the battery.

    The FSM page below says to take off the timing belt cover and references their special parts that are discontinued. But it sounds like any old fuel pressure testing kit should have everything?

    In one video a guy pointed to a totally different spot on the passenger side near the evap canister. I marked a spot with an arrow in my own pic below that I think is a fuel line and I could probably disconnect and put a T in. Is that right?

    I don't think I have the right fuel pressure gauge. Pic below also. It has a hose and a few connectors but only goes to 10 PSI and doesn't have all those other hoses and connectors I've seen in some kits.


    fuel pressure test FSM.jpg

    fuel line.jpg

    gauge.jpg
     
  2. Nov 22, 2022 at 6:26 PM
    #2
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    testing it at idle instead of at full throttle in gear you will get two different results,

    I had a fuel pump going south,
    At idle it tested good but at WOT it could not keep up, FYI
     
  3. Nov 22, 2022 at 8:03 PM
    #3
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    3rz to 2Rz bebuilt block and new heads
    I would not break that double flare you've got circled...

    Being so old it may not reseat correctly......
    I had to replace that exact hose after dicking with it..........$215 from yota shop....
    and it was the only one in U.S. at the time.......

    it was damaged sometime in past and they fix it by over tightening it.....one shot fix...
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2022
  4. Nov 22, 2022 at 8:24 PM
    #4
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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  5. Nov 22, 2022 at 8:25 PM
    #5
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Nov 22, 2022
  6. Nov 26, 2022 at 9:51 AM
    #6
    JustADriver

    JustADriver [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused. So there's no way to test fuel pressure without breaking and replacing some expensive parts? I still don't understand what kind of gauge kit or other adapters I need or the location to best take apart. There's no parts available to do it the way the FSM suggests?
     
  7. Nov 26, 2022 at 10:16 AM
    #7
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Toyota did not make it easy......
    easiest thing I know to do is you can check for fuel flow by pulling the fuel return hose off the pressure regulator....and stick a long hose on that reg nipple and crank and check for fuel flow.....it should come pouring out.......


    Yeah they made their fuel delivery pretty robust.......you never hear of engine fires on toyotas.......unlike the new bronco sports......
     
  8. Nov 28, 2022 at 7:30 PM
    #8
    JustADriver

    JustADriver [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For my symptom it sounds like it's almost always the fuel pump check valve failing. I don't have symptoms of a bad fuel pump or pressure regulator, just a long crank time of 6 crankshaft rotations after it's been sitting for maybe an hour(?).

    To avoid dropping the tank, I found a cheap idea of installing an inline check valve on the rubber fuel hose between the tank and filter by the method in this video. It looks like I could do this on mine. My concern is the bad check valve by the pump is still going to backflow the fuel located between it and the new inline check valve, creating an air bubble. Is that bubble going to cause the engine to stumble, or will something get rid of that bubble and the fuel flow will be steady?

    https://youtu.be/STIQa1ct_5s
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2022
  9. Feb 11, 2024 at 4:08 PM
    #9
    JustADriver

    JustADriver [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1996 Tacoma 3.4L V6 2WD 5-lug AT 5VZ-FE

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