Tacoma 1st Gen problems

Hi guys so I'm looking into buys a first-gen Tacoma ranging from the year 2001-2004 and I'm just starting my research on any type of problem that I need to look out or what I should be expecting when looking at different trucks and well I want to see if you guys can give me some input on this?

 

Depending on where you're at, here are the top ten things to look for:

1) Frame Rust
2) Frame Rust
3) Frame Rust
4) Frame Rust
5) Frame Rust
6) Frame Rust
7) Frame Rust
8) Frame Rust
9) Frame Rust
10) Frame Rust

 

Frame rust

 

Seriously though, they're pretty solid. If the frame is good, has been maintained, and hasn't been butchered - its probably fine.

Any idea what you're looking for in particular? v6? 4 cyl? 2wd? 4wd?

 

You forgot Rust on the Frame

 

Critical Blunder!

 

also LBJs those can be a killer

some also have a problem with seeing the clock at certain angles

 

Not sure that was mentioned, but good looking out

 

@joe464

Once you're close to deciding on a candidate or two, send me a vin and I'll run a carfax for ya.

It's one thing to buy a vehicle in a rust free state; it's another thing if it came from a state where salt is used often on the roads etc before it arrived to that rust free state.

 

Well, I live in southern Califonia so I don't think it will be too much of any issue but ill make sure to keep an eye out for that rust. I'm also just starting the search for one so I don't really know what exactly I want I do plan to daily it, but I don't know if there's a difference in daily driving a first-gen Tacoma with a 4-wheel dive option to a 2-wheel drive option.

 

The last few times I went looking at Tacoma's the most common issue I saw was oil leaking out the rear main seal/through the cork gasket between the trans/engine.

Usually that's do to poor maintenance, so be sure to get as much info about the truck as possible.

My first Tacoma had 303k miles and never leaked there. Even my second with 225k miles. Yet, I look at some with 100-120k miles and they leak like crazy and can just tell they weren't maintained well if at all.

Once you find a good one, don't be afraid to spend $10,000k or more on a 120k+ mile vehicle. You end up saving so much more from lack of serious repairs it's no joke. I wouldn't drive anything else, honestly. And I'm on my 3rd one!

 

Don't be so quick to assume no rust in socal. Depends where the truck has lived before socal and there's plenty of coastal areas and mountain locations in ca where rust can be an issue. The main problem is that it's usually not easy to detect with a quick visual inspection as a clean or painted frame on the exterior can be rotten on the inside. Plenty of posts and photo examples on this subject and the rust problem is usually found in specific frame areas. Take a hammer with a ball peen side for inspection or find a mechanic who can do a presale inspection and knows how to look for the rust (not all do, but they'll act like they do when they talk to you.

 

Frame rust and valve cover gaskets

 

I thought Hawaii was rust free at one time but now have heard different have yet to see it

 

east side of the islands lots of marine moisture, west sides pretty dry.

 

To name a few not mentioned: Heater core cracking and leaking into passenger floor and catalytic converters go bad along with the oxygen sensors. If there is a check engine light on that is the common probelm at least on the last two Tacomas I have owned. Also the rear axle bearing seals go bad and start to leak down the inside of the rear tires. A quick look to spot that. Rust, lower ball joints, and timing belt change would be my top 3 to look for though.

 

Yes the frame, but also pull the spark plug tubes and make sure non of them have any oil on them. Check the transmission fluid, if it’s pure red you’re good, if it’s brownish, smell it and if it smells burnt then the trans was overheated which is obviously not good especially considering the fluid wasn’t changed. But if it’s just a little dark but doesn’t smell burnt it might just be time for a fluid change. Also look out for it being milkshakish, this is know as pink milk shake which is a rare but known problem, the internals of the radiator break and mixes the trans liquid and coolant and the coolant ruins the clutch packs in your auto, don’t have to worry about this with a manual.
Check the radiator overflow tank, it’s how I found out my truck had the pink milkshake and that was the only thing the previous owner forgot to change out and I failed to realize it when I bought it.
Check the radiator, make sure it’s not too


when looking for frame rust look at the leaf spring mounts and shock mounts. I would stick your biggest finger inside the frame and feel around for any flakes and feel for the weld and see if there are any flakes.
Whatever truck you buy wether it has rust or is 100% rust free, put fluid film on it, it works and is cheap. It’s worth it.

I’ll add more if I think of it lol, a lot of this is just stuff I wish I would’ve paid more attention to when I bought mine, hoping it might help you if you come across one with one of those issues.

 

The thing about some of this stuff is its cheap and easy fix if you know about it. LBJ's for example.

 

I watched a youtube video a few weeks ago and they mentioned burnt valves on the 2.7's. Is this much of an issue?

 

It happens if the valve clearances aren't checked often enough (every 50k is what I've heard).

I just fixed a burnt valve on mine. Its not a small job.

Quickest way to check would be a compression test.