Switched from 5W-30 to 0W-30 100% Full Synthetic Oil

I switched from the 5W-30 to 0W-30 Fully Synthetic AMSOIL Signature Series Engine Oil. I checked with AMSOIL,MOBIL1,Castrol,and a few others with all Synthetics ONLY!!! Better and quicker start ups, higher lubrication protection for the new tighter tolerances on all newer models engines for past 2-3 decades! I run 5 QTS of AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Fully Synthetic Oil,I run a K&N or a MOBIL1 Oil Filters, I add 1/2 a QT. of TufOil Engine Oil Treatment, and results are quieter and smoother engine and throttle response,better fuel economy, LONGER ENGINE LIFE and much less wear and tear. Did mine at 60,000 miles this week! Runs as good as new still! Hoping to get up to 1,000,000 miles or more in life!change every 5,000-7,500 miles since new! I own a 2013 Toyota Tacoma SR5 PreRunner DCLB V6 4.0 and A/T with Tow Pkg. Changed all Oils ,Fluids and lubricants to AMSOIL at new at 500 milles and change and flush all fluids every 30,000 miles,did at 500,then 35,000,then now 60,000 miles !Tune up with new NGK Irridium Plugs,New serpentine Belt,New front Brake pads .

 

Well....giddy-up.

 

Amsoil = Scamsoil! Seriously that stuff is a huge waste of money and won’t protect your engine any better than Mobil 1 which can be had for half the price. I run Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy 0W-30 and it’s performance is better than Amsoil by far! Yes I used Amsoil once so I speak from experience, it’s a waste of money! Especially when Mobil 1 can be had at Walmart for $22 a 5 quart jug plus an additional quart for $6 makes for a $28 oil change rather than a $60 change with Scamsoil!

 

Sorry, not impressed.

 

Love these oil threads. A lot of uninformed opinions by uninformed people. Most of the expertise comes from blurbs on the internet or hearsay. How many here have ever had an engine fail because of the brand of oil they used? I surmise the answer is between zero and none. Modern oils are phenomenal lubricants. As long as you do regular maintenance and oil changes doubt you’ll ever have a problem due to the brand of oil. We all have our favorite oils but as far as internal engine longevity I doubt it makes any difference which brand you use. Now if we have an automotive petroleum chemist out there we might get some credible information.

Anyway back to the original post, a new serpentine belt and brake pads at 60000 miles? Both of those should last longer than 60000 miles.

 

I use Shell Rotella T6 0W-40. Change every 2000 miles. I haven’t noticed any differences.

 

Is this an advertisement?

 

seems so. 110k on a 2013 and original belt, original rotors. im anal and im wondering what the point in 1/2 of this is

 

Better & quicker startups because of oil? Hmm interesting.

 

Next....

 

Haven't hear TufOil mentioned in years. That stuff was the cat's pajamas back in the day... one of the few "slick" additives that didn't lose their hiney over false promises.

 

There was a bunch, Slick50, Prolong, & the one that came in lab beaker shaped bottles, I think Zmax was the name. Heck some people even swore adding Marvel Mystery Oil did something. Don't know if any of that stuff actually did anything but I've always stayed away from oil & fuel additives.

 

There is a difference, but you only really notice it in extreme cold conditions. 0W will deliver the easiest startups over 5W or 10W weights in all temperatures, though. Oil will get to critical parts quicker as well which is not a bad thing! I use 0W-30 in my 3.4 because -30 degree weather isn't unheard of in Montana during winter and my truck sits outside year round and doesn't have a block heater to help it along. Mobil 1 0W-30 has a cold pour point of -58 degrees fahrenheit meaning it stays fluid and pump able down to that temperature without turing to gel. If it ever gets any colder than that, I'll just stay home and not even go outside! Lol

Sorry to sound nerdy, but I've learned a lot of valuable information on oil from the Bob is the Oil Guy forum. A lot of knowledgable folk over there on the subject of oil and filters.

 

I've read about many tests and even on newer motors heavier weights always protect better. If I remember right the lighter weights give better gas mileage, start ups, ect but breaks down at lower temp so if you over heat from a cooling failure the chance of motor damage is significantly higher .

 

Completely untrue. There's not much any oil can do to help if your engine overheats regardless of weight. Plenty of used oil analysis's out there that say lighter weights protect just as good if not better than heavier grades. Otherwise if there was a problem, Toyota, Ford, and Honda wouldn't be using 5W and 0W-20 in all their flagship products. GM, Hyundai and Kia are headed that way as well. Toyota is even going to start using 0W-16 in hybrid vehicles and Honda is headed the same direction with their lineup. The good thing about 0W oils is they are all full synthetic, and synthetic protects better across the board better than regular oil in all temperatures. The 0W is just the cold (meaning winter) viscosity, so for instance a 0W-30 has the same high temperature operating viscosity of 30 as 5W or 10W-30. I don't know why the oil companies make this so hard to understand but it's quite inconvenient to say the least!