Suspension Lift 3.5” or 6”

I’m looking to lift my 2019 with a rough country 3.5 or the 6” suspension lift and I was looking for reasons to go all the way or just stay moderate. I don’t plan on going any bigger than 33’s on it. I am building everything up to where I can do a tune but I want everything on it that can and will change the tune as I add something new. I am a believer in tunes not my first. Any help would be great.

 

let me just say this... 33's can be cleared with 3in pretty easily. 6in would look absolutely absurd with 33's. plus think you have to cut the frame for 6in


oh... and my 2009 just had some HD Bilstein's, and HD springs, and the rear has a block and I only rub on the Cab mounts sometimes with a 275/75 17 on some KMC wheels. the Suspension is next for a whole upgrade, purchased my Tacoma that way with some 275/70 17's on it

 

Do it right. Stick to 3 inches or less of lift. Cut and get proper alignment to fit 33s. More than 3 inhces, really more than 2.5 or so, you really start to shorten the lifespan of your front CVs. And as @BigCountry762x39 said, if you go a 6 inch lift, you are going to be permanently cutting cutting out a hunk of your frame. If you ever decide you want to go back to a proper suspension lift, you are going to be paying much more since you'll need to repair the frame. Resale value could also take a big hit, if you care about that.

 

Friday Is Here!!!!

 

Rough country sucks.

 

agreed, my friends ranger got a fresh lift and 6mo later we installed brand new Bilstein's on all 4 corners. 3 of 4 shocks were leaking again 6mo old rough country shocks. and replaced a bad ball joint.

 

I don't think I've seen a 6" lift on a Tacoma, so I looked it up out of curiosity. I found this info that I think may help you with your decision. https://youtu.be/VNvom_tIalk

 

Stay away from Rough Country. There's your advice. As well what others said, under 3" lift.

 

Take your pick:
3.5" lift = many CV joint boot replacements (and likely steering rack & ball joints too) and a ride like ass.
6" lift = have to cut part of a frame crossmember (this CAN be reversed fairly easy if you save the piece, but will need to be welded back in).

Otherwise, you are looking at at most 2" lift (shocks + UCAs) if you want to avoid the headaches (some will say 3", but IMO anything over 2" lift (without drop brackets) is when things start to be negatively impacted).

The vid a couple posts up actually explains it pretty well for the 6".
I have not personally seen the VSC error he mentions when going around turns... probably just needs a recalibration (zero-point, etc.).

And BDS > Rough Country
https://bds-suspension.com/products/6-inch-lift-kit-fox-2-5-coil-over-toyota-tacoma-16-20-4wd

 

Much thanks to all many questions and concerns in my head have been cleared up. The 6” lift is out for me, I need no head ales at this stage. I’ll stick with the 3.5” and just keep a good eye in the front end I just done want any cutting but yet I want what the lift and tires get me. Again thanks to all it does help me a lot.

 

I would watch the 3.5 has some had issues tearing cv boots.

 

Oh my here we go.

There's a pile of contributing and over looked factors with a lift and fitting tires. First off lifts don't clear tires, body lifts will help in some situations but that's a whole different discussion. When you lift it can help clear at ride height but if you use you truck you will still rub without looking at different factors.

The next question is what wheel/tire combo are you trying to fit?
285/70r17 or 285/75r16
255/80r17
33x10.5
33x12.50
There's a ton of "33's"

What wheel specs?
17x7.5 +4
17x9 0
17x9 -10

Just to list off a few common ones but depending on wheel specs it will determine what you need to do to fit.

What is the intended use of the truck? This factors in what level of quality and spring rates you want to consider.

How much compromise and additional maintenance are you willing to deal with?

A 3.5" lift you are going to eat cv boots/ball joints and will 100% need a front diff bushing. The ride quality/characteristics drop the more you lift 2" in the money spot in my opinion ran mine at 3 for a bit and i do not recommend.

 

Here is my ~6ish inch lifted Tacoma with 35's for people who haven't seen one. It's a Pro Comp drop bracket lift, but with full length Bilstein 5100's and OME 887 springs (adds a lil more lift actually) in the front (no spacer) and 5100's in the rear with AAL and 1.5IN block. Drop bracket lifts keep the driveline angles the same, there is no excessive CV axle wear as some people have stated.

 

The CV axle wear is on NON-drop bracket lifts above 2.5 inches or so.

You state driveline angles do not change, but maybe you mean CV angles? driveline angle definitely changes, as the angle between the transfer case and the front differential changes.

 

6in lift or bust! The headaches stated on here are overrated and probably disproportionate to the successful ones out there not complaining.

You won’t regret it!

 

I guess a big thing here is how the OP wants to USE the truck. Are they regularly gonna be stuffing the front tires in high articulation situations offroad, or are they strictly wanting a big lift to look cool on the street. A drop bracket on the street really isn't an issue, I'd think. And if that's what you are going for, do it. For offroad, raising the center of gravity like that isn't the best. You'd be better keeping the lift as small as possible, and chopping fenders and cab mounts to fit big tires. It's just two completely different routes.

 

33s can be cleared with no lift.

 

well yes, but if they OP wanted a lift 33's would be just fine with a 3in

 

@alwaysHI

 

12.8 inches. Minimum.