Suspension Install Cost/Shop Recommendations

Hello All,

Just curious on what would be a fair price for an install on a basic suspension package at a shop in the Phoenix area? I purchased a set of Bilstein 6112's(preassembled)/5160's, Freedom Offroad UCA's and an Icon 1/5" add a leaf. I was able to purchase everything new for great price.

I know it's not the most difficult job in the world but I don't have the time to do the job myself.

I have seen anywhere from $500-1000 with an alignment. I have a 2022 TRD Off-road, first time adding an aftermarket suspension/lift.

Any shop recommendations would be helpful s well. Thanks in advance!

 

@Maxx

 

@state48overland

 

Get in your local forum on the site. I'm sure there's some folks that would be more than willing to help you out with an install. I would usually charge around $400 for what you have. Maybe a local member can hook you up

 

He posted in the AZ forum, so...

 

It was, I think you saw it in the recent post page when you first visit the forum. I've seen varying quotes, anywhere from $500 to $1000, just not sure what's the norm in Az.

 

State 48 Overland , Eric and Ben are outstanding they are in Mesa.

 

PM me for a good price if you’re interested.

 

Thank you. I sent a message your way.

 

Just wanted to give @Maxx a shout for having availability to install the lift this weekend. My buddy and I ended up doing it today. @Maxx was able to give me a couple tips in order to make the job go smoother, much appreciated! Why Toyota installed the upper control arm bolts the way they did baffles me, had to cut them out and get new ones, fortunately a dealership had them in stock near us.

 

It's a first gen, but you get the idea. Look close at the UCA- Those bolts are put in before the body is put on top of the frame.

I will say it's a little exasperating that they look SO CLOSE to being able to come out, but the reality is nope!

 

You're kidding right? Ive had the UCA bolts out and back in at least 20 times on my truck. Just bend the sheet metal a little bit. You guys are nancies.

 

What @Atl-atl said...

You'll also see a lot of debate on which direction the UCA bolts need to be installed...my Tacoma installs from the front, while my Sequoia installs from the rear (as does the LC/LX)...clearly it doesn't really matter. You have WAY bigger issues if that nut gets to the point of falling off anyway...

 

I was just explaining how it got there in the first place and how it looks without massaging the body a bit.

If my recollection is right it can also be slightly different based on your truck and how true the body was mounted to the frame. I recall one of my Tacoma's bolts came out no problem with just one quick tweak with channel locks, and the other I cut out because no fracking way it was gonna come out.

 

I just cut them out instead of wasting time on trying to get it out. 60 seconds on each side with a 4” cutoff wheel. New bolts are $25 and worth the time saving.

 

Cutting it was the easiest option for myself as well on my 22 TRD. There are also some lines that run along the inside of the body/wheel well and they would have been a pain in the ass to deal with along with manipulating the body. Took a minute or so to cut and reinstall the new ones in reverse. I’ll just check on the bolts from time to time to make sure they are still tight.

 

When you cut them, are you installing the new ones front to back (i.e. down) or back to front?

 

Back to front. Torque to spec. No issues.

 

Im sure you know this but the whole point is having the bolt installed front to back, downward. On the off chance the nut were to come loose the bolt stays put instead of working its way out. But hey, its only safety...

 

I know there's a huge argument about this but I feel like it's one of those "damned if you do, damned if you don't" scenarios where any way you put it there's some disadvantage, but in practice if you do it right 99.9% of the time you won't run into issues.

Front to back has the advantage @Atl-atl just mentioned of if the nut comes loose, your UCA doesn't go on a grand adventure. Problem being you've almost got to cut "UCA bolt channels" by notching the body or really getting after bending it out of the way, and some trucks have an AC line right there (I think it's AC? I can't recall off the top of my head)

Back to front is more expedient and works, but there's 2 issues: the aforementioned nut placement, and on top of that you only have room to put torque on the bolt head instead of the nut. With a long bolt like that you're supposed to torque the nut and not the bolt, because of the torsional wind up of applying the torque to the long bolt head.

I ended up doing back-to-front on the tacoma and rechecked a few times. Never had an issue so it's probably hair-splitting and moot, but still an interesting conundrum.