Supercharged 3:73 vs 4:10 vs 4:56

You too bro! You been doing well?

 

trying! as always have a huge pile of mods and no brains to install. about to close a house deal! got to give you the credit for my exhaust. without the link you sent i never would have. thanks brotha!

 

Not a lot of information on TW regarding regearing. I see a lot of 3rd gen going with 4.88 on 33's . Will 4.56 gears be good on 33's for 2nd gen Tacoma even if I have armor and RTT?

 

It all depends on what your purpose for the truck is. I use my truck as a daily and sometimes go on long trips. I run 285/70/17 and I think 4.56 would rev too high on the freeway for my liking. If it were more of a dedicated off-road truck I could see going 4.56 though.

 

I mean my truck is not fully toy truck but it's mainly a weekend truck . It's setup like a expedition truck which I do need to run on the highway comfortable at 75 mph when I go on long trips. So 4.88 will be to much on 33's in order to do 75 mph on cruise?

 

Keep in mind the 3rd Gen came with a 3.91 final drive from the factory, vs the 2nd Gen with 3.73. So stock they are geared a little higher stock. There are also plenty of complaints on the 3.5L V6 lack of low end power, so gearing slightly deeper would help with that and many would likely favor that direction. The 4.0L torque curve has more low end torque available. So if you account for those factors, 4.88 on 3rd Gen is closer to being similar to 4.56 on 2nd Gen.

Something to keep in mind. The main point of regearing when you go to oversized tires is to fix the effective gear ratio change caused by your larger tires.

Stock stock is 31s w/ 3.73. When you go to 33s you change the effective ratio by 31/33 = 0.939. Aka a 6.1% loss, meaning 0.939 x 3.73 = 3.50. <- Your new effective gear ratio.

To fix it you change the final drive gears. Going to 4.10 results in 0.939 x 4.10 = 3.85 (effective), geared just slightly higher than the 3.73 stock (4.6%), giving small advantages in torque without really sacrificing fuel economy or acceleration.

Going to 4.56 results in 0.939 x 4.56 = 4.28 (effective), which is significantly higher than the 3.73 stock (14.8%), giving significant advantages in torque and slow crawl speed, but will lead to lower mpgs and may be over geared for acceleration performance.

Very heavy trucks can compensate for some weight by going with numerically higher gears to get better torque, in which case 4.56 may be better. For a modestly built daily driver, I'd go 4.10 myself. You need to prioritize what is important to you.

 

I attached a picture of my truck. A little bit older picture but pretty much same setup. So definitely NOT 4.88 for 2nd gen on 33's and maximum 4.56 with extra weight and towing 3000 to 4000 lbs once in a while .

 

Assuming all your components are steel, your truck does look to have some heavy accessories, in which case you might go 4.56 and take the mpg loss. Like I mentioned earlier there is still some untapped potential in your supercharger as well to add more power.

 

I just installed an AP Apex front steel bumper and skid plates and CBI rear swing out on order. I currently have 4.10's and after all the added weight I've noticeably lost some umph. I'm going to be re-gearing to 4.56's and install the S/C.....Then I'm done.

 

Adding a bunch of weight does kill performance. I'd suggest Supercharging first, changing the pulley, then see how you feel about the gearing.

 

If you are sure about Super Charge, install it first and then regear if you feel like you need. I have supercharger on mine on 3.73 and I have power , the only problem is that I'm to heavy for the gears .

 

Why couldn’t you re-gear to 4.10’s or 4.56’s? Wouldn’t that help your weight and take less stress off the engine?

 

Didn't you said you are at 4.10 with your gears? I have to regear because I'm stock, but I'm debating between 4.27 or 4.56. But you might not have to, since you are already at 4.10 and will have a supercharger.

 

If you got the money for the supercharger I'd do it...theyre pretty damn fun. I think I wanna go up to 35's and 4.56.

 

Ok, I misunderstood what you said. I thought you were saying you could not re-gear because you were too heavy. I definitely want to do both especially because I have no lockers and I’m hoping to go full-time in my rig and I think both will come in handy. Though I’ll most likely buy the supercharger/7th injector kit 1st and save up for the re-gear and harrop lockers. I was going to buy either or (Sc or gears/lockers) at the end of the month but my ac unit gave up the ghost.

 

Talking about SC and A.C. My air conditioner sucks since I installed the SC. When I idle I have no A.C. Look at some aftermarket Radiators when you do the SC.

 

I have the Champion all aluminum radiator but it doesn't really have that much benefit than the stock one. A lot of people have had problems with them. I'm going to look into another all aluminum custom one but they're pretty pricey.

 

This is specific to the 2nd Gen supercharged trucks. The SC intercooler covers the AC condenser, so the condenser is sandwiched in between the intercooler and radiator. On 1st Gen there is no intercooler. I have the significantly larger CSF FJ radiator in my truck and didn’t notice and difference in AC performance after the swap, though if your in AZ it seems like a very worthwhile upgrade. You need more airflow across the condenser to get better cooling performance at idle, meaning a custom electric fan swap or adding some aux pushing fans for the condenser. Of course have your AC system checked out as well to ensure everything is in proper working order, including your fan clutch.

 

I have the CSF radiator and made a DIY fan shroud for electric fan conversion using an Auto Cool Guy controller and a radiator fan from a 1998 Volvo V70. I also installed a resistor across the evaporator temp sensor to make the A/C amplifier stay on slightly longer before cycling the compressor.

I live in Texas and my A/C stays cool at idle.

 

I finally pulled the trigger 4.56 , supercharger 4.0L with 33's. So far everything good. On the Air conditioner the dealer recommended to change some oil in the fan clutch that will make the clutch engage at a lower temperature when i idle. They said 100% money back quaranty if it doesn't work.