Stuck drive shaft yoke

So I finally got around to replacing my carrier bearing for the drive shaft tonight.

The splined yoke is stuck. I can't remove it and need to in order to get the old bearing off. I've tried tapping it using a wooden block and heavy mallet and it won't budge.

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

hit it harder?

https://youtu.be/6WvlVa7OzS8?t=360

https://youtu.be/vvC7Iy3RKog?t=352

 

Wooden block split in half.

 

Get a bigger hammer, maybe some WD40 or PBblaster or something too.

 

Did you take the nut off?

 

You can see it in the background. Next to his .40 cal hollow point.

 

It is slowly...and I mean very slowly coming apart....I am worried that I will have a challenging time getting it back together at this point.‍♂️

 

LOL!!!!!!
True! Funny thing is I don't even have a 40! A buddy of mine left that in my truck cupholder on the last range visit.

How on earth did you realize it was a 40 without seeing the headstamp? You got a nice eye for dimensions and proportions!

 

Them 40's go bang!

 

Whatever you do try to avoid hitting the splined axle itself. Focus on hitting just the carrier bearing/yoke. My co-worker thought it would be a great idea to put the carrier bearing in a vice, then he AIR hammered the shaft. Well that was a $500+ mistake as the axle was destroyed.

 

Seriously making some kindling...

 

Lucky guess. I've owned a bunch of .40 cal Sig Sauer pistols. Have shot thousands of .40 rounds.

 

You’re going to need momentum.
Something like a slide hammer effect.
Get creative with it, it will come off.

 

No for the bearing!.....thanks for the encouragement! Sometimes ya just gotta use the bear paws.....that being said....it's gonna suck putting this thing back together I bet.‍♂️

 

Not sure if there's a master spline or not but if there's not then make sure you line the yokes up so they are phased correctly.

 

edit: nvm I see he has it marked

 

Finally done with that job... hopefully this bearing lasts a lot longer than the last one....I went ahead and replaced all the u joints while I was at it...they turned out to be just fine actually, but I figured if I had off the center I mine as well do all of them. Went ahead and did a fresh grease job on the slip yoke as well.....truck drives so much smoother now!

Fortunately this time I remembered to set up the u-joints so all the grease points are in line with each other. That way when I grease them when doing oil changes it's much easier.

And....I managed to figure out the wiring gremlin with the wife's expedition!!!! Winning!

....now to start a backyard s'mores fire with all my kindling!

 

Persistence pays off. Enjoy the s’mores, you deserve them!

 

thing I wish I knew when taking mine for a rebuild, that ended up back in stock configuration

is that apparently if you rebuild it backwards on purpose, with the slip yoke placed to the other side, it's a common mod to:
1. reduce vibration
2. gain more clearance in rear

 

get a piece of flat stock throw a bolt though it and a nut on the back side of the bold then put a box wrench on the bolt and tighten from the top. unless you own a bearing puller, I've also used a jaw type puller. ive also used a propane torch to heat up the splined area. can help to cook some of the crap out of the splines. once you put it back together you can smear some anti seize in the splining.

but if you can spray some penetrant into that area like some PB blaster, or some ATF and acetone mixed together and let it sit. but I've been able to pop mine with a jaw type puller

get a good wire brush on your splines and you're golden now that you've gotten it free