Stuck AC/heater control

The air temperature control on my '99 has been stuck for some time now. At first with a little persuasion I could get the knob to go from cold to hot, but over time the knob has stopped moving and will only click (thankfully it is stuck in the a/c position). At first I thought the problem was in the control itself, so I went to the local junkyard and bought a new new one. However, after much deliberation and searching, I have figure out that it's not my controls but rather the cable that goes from the hot/cold knob down to the air mix door that is the problem. Even when removed from the blender door, it is very stiff and difficult to move. I also checked the heater valve and cable, and the mechanism that controls the blend door and they all appear to be in working order.

Here's my delima. How to I remove the cable from the control assembly so that I can replace it?? I'v looked at it over and over, searched all over online, but I have yet to find how to remove the plastic sleeve from the control assembly so that I can even remove the cable! I'm at a total loss. I would still like to replace the control assembly since I have a new one, but even that is not an option right now since I can't get the cables off of the existing assembly nor off of the new one that I have. Any help is appreciated!

 

I have a similar issue. I can still turn the knob but I'd really like to free it up.

Please post your findings.

 

Bump. Anyone?

 

can't you take the whole assembly out and hang it upside down and soak the cable with penetrant, let it hang and work it's way into the cable sleeve for a while, couple of days. then try pull/push the cable slowly in small portions with vise grips, then soak it some more.

 

I suppose this may work. It's certainly worth the try. I would still like to replace the cable and hopefully the control assembly if I can figure out how to disassemble the cables off of it.

 

Did you ever figure out hold to remove the cables from the temperature control assy? I've asked about this on my thread, but it's like the cat has everyone's tongue on explaining this? I figured with the thousands of members on the board, a few people have had to change their temperature control assembly style with the cables.

 

I figured out how to get the cables removed. Depressing the two curved clamp tabs on each side of the cable and then slide it out backwards to get it out and unhooked.

I started with the bottom cable first, and then did the top 3 cables after you remove the two black covers on the upper side of the control assy.

 

Thank you for sharing your technique. I will take another crack at my cable.

 

Sorry man, life's been busy..I forgot about this thread! But you got it. I was completely over thinking it. It took me a little while to think it over for it to finally come to me that it was super simple. Glad you got it worked out too!

 

My heater control knob finally quit moving through its full arc so I dove into the dash (water valve checked out, that left the cable and the control box as possible culprits).

This is what I found:



It should look like this:



And for those of you who may have to go in there someday, this is how the cable attaches:



Pushed in all the way:


The heater control unit is still available from Toyota ($100 online). I replaced the cable, too ($14 online). The new cable is virtually friction-less.

This was an easy job. Patience, a pick tool, and Tacomaworld forum posts. Thanks to all of you who share.

 

Glad you got it figured out! There’s still a little tension in my heater control, I assume it must be the cable. I never got around to replacing the cable, just the control unit. It works, and I don’t feel like tearing the dash back apart right now so I live with it haha

 

Bringing this back from the dead, started to have an issue with mine, took it all apart, messed around with the cable adjustment and thought I fixed it, put everything back together and worked for a few turns back and forth then back to being pretty much stuck.
Which cable is the right on for the temp. Control? Part #?

 

Sorry to necro this thread , but I have the same problem . My air mix knob was very hard to turn and made grinding noises . Now , it doesn't turn at all . I disconnected the cable and it's really the knob . The cable has some resistance , but not a ton . I'm pretty new to this level of maintenance , so I don't know what's normal .

The control unit replacement part seems to be : 55910-35121

I'm not yet sure what the cable part number is , but I want to replace it as well .

 

I'm having a hard time getting the cables to come out of the stake posts. Did ya'll use pliers? Screwdrivers? I thought I'd be able to fix my gears inside as the cables all work fine but am afraid I'm about to break a bunch of old plastic.
Is it easier to just bust them out being careful of the cables and just order a new control panel?
thanks for any tips. Been a long time coming for tha old girl to have a real problem.
edit: I found a video saying what to do and it tells to spread the middle and pull straight up on cable. I'll try some more. These are just stuck like chuck into the post for some reason. Maybe the time and heat.

 

I had the same issue with mine and it was the heater core on the firewall, was binding something fierce.

 

Just to follow up on this , the control unit assembly part number is : 55910-35121
And the hot/cold mix cable that goes out into the engine is : 5590735040

I was able to get a new cable from Toyota (back-ordered for 5 weeks !) and when I got it , realized that the original one did indeed have too much friction . (Interestingly , there are two cables which are attached to the hot/cold mixer dial , which makes sense : 1 for hot , and 1 for cold .) I replaced both parts today , and so far so good . The action of all of the environmental controls seems to be working well , however , my truck didn't like sitting for 6 weeks , so it's having trouble starting . I'm charging the battery now and hopefully will be able to drive it for some time tomorrow .

Wish me luck !

 

yes. The cable was my problem too. I started on the wrong end as this old plasiic did not like flexing. Broke the teflon gear and now have to reassemble. Anyone in the future...start under the hood when the temp is frozen!!!