Strut wont fit back in after spacer lift

Hey guys so I have attempted this once before and gave up because I was dealing with stripped/seized bolts and nuts and it just wore me out. But im giving it another go. I purchased the Daystar Comfort Ride 1 inch leveling kit for my 2003 toyota tacoma prerunner. I always hear people say that getting the whole strut out is a nightmare but mine slides in and out no problem. But after I put the spacer on the strut and put the new bolts on top of the old ones and I try to reinstall it, I have no idea how to get to it to line back up with the hole on the lower control arm. Please help guys. The instructions that daystar sent with the spacers was useless and ive lost it anyway, so I dont know what to do. Ive tried pushing up on the upper control arm with a pry bar to try and put it back in but it wont work. Im afraid if i force something to go up or down im gonna break it.

 

spud wrench, push the control arm up with a floor jack.

 

First if you have not.... remove the castle nut to detach the top part of the spindle from the control upper arm. Then lower control arm will droop more. Then put shock/coil and spacer in. Use floor jack to raise control arm and shock in place.

 

OK well as soon as i posted I decided I would just stand on the lower control arm and I actually let me fit it back in so I stuck the bolt in just barely so it will hold it in place. Now I just want to know how am I going to get all this stuff to reconnect since it doesnt line up. Does the floor jack idea work for that.

 

Yes.

 

You could loosen your LCA bolts (alignment cams) as well. You might have binding at the bushings there that don't allow you move the LCA freely. You'll need an alignment after your install anyway so don't worry about going out of alignment.

 

be carefull you dont bitch up the threads on the end of that bolt using it as a pin. A spud wrench to line holes up like this is invaluable.

 

I just used the factory bottle jack, and flipped it upside down. put the lifting pad just behind the castle nut, and the base against the flattest part of the inner fender. Gave it a few turns to push the UCA down, and gave myself the perfect amount of clearance to slide my Kings right in, no fuss.

Ditch the swaybar anyways, your ride quality will improve dramatically.

 

Breaker bar or long screwdriver under the strut to help align it with the mounting hole.

 

Mark alignment cams to the tabs on the frame. Loosen alignment cam bolts. LCA should swing freely now. Attach shock to LCA. Tighten top three shock nuts, leave lower shock nut loose on the bolt. Loosen UCA bolt to frame so that the spindle drops down enough to put the lower four bolts in to place. If sway bar doesn't line up, disconnect from other side, and it will line up. Other side will line up once lift is installed. Torque LCA to spindle bolts to spec. Tighten sway bar end link to sway bar. Snug, but don't torque LCA cam bolts and UCA bolt until truck is on the ground so you don't bind the bushing.

 

^ waaaaaay more work than is necessary, esp on a first gen

 

Maybe, but it sure makes it a shit ton easier to get everything lined up correctly without putting up a fight.

 

Just throw that sway bar away. It's clearly preventing all this from completion.

Stand on that LCA and have someone put the coil assembly in at the same time. Or if you're alone, ratchet strap that SOB over to the other side and pull it down that way. No need to loosen the cam bolts this way.

 

I've worked on cars and machines since I was first able to help my dad, even went to tech school for automotive, and I have never heard of a spud wrench. Looked it up and honestly, this is one of the most amazing things I have ever seen. Already ordered one. Thank you. Thank you so much.

 

Hit up your local tractor supply, they usually have them in the bargain bins right by the front door.

To be fair it's not a common automotive tool. It's a throwback from my metal building erection days. Sure comes in handy for shit like that tho!

 

alright well i actually got the first side done. Now my problem is my same one from before where one of the 14mm nuts on the strut bolts wont come off. its totally stripped and I dont know if I have the tools to remove it and I dont very well have anything to drive up to home depot to buy something. So how would I get this off guys? its in the worst possible spot to cause I cant fit very much up under there. I have more 14 mm nuts so I dont care about it just need to get it off. Even tried 3 in one oil and pb blaster.

 

Vice grips?

 

If you had a new bolt/stud to go along with the 14mm nuts, I'd say a torch or grinder with cutting wheel would solve this issue. Or hacksaw if there's room.

 

6

This.. vice grips.

 

No way a hacksaw fits. Plus the way the bolt is sunk into the mounting plate would make it impossible. Same for an angle grinder, at least not without totally fucking up other stuff. Plus stuffing a grinder up there is asking for it to bind and smash your hand at the very least or blow the wheel apart showering your face with broken bits of cutoff wheel. Wear not only eye protection but a face shield if this route is taken, as well as heavy leather gloves.