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Strobe / Flashing Turn Signal Lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by slowpoke16taco, Jun 13, 2022.

  1. Jun 13, 2022 at 12:52 PM
    #1
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’ve been wanting to add strobes/flashers to my truck for a while, mainly just for fun as off road chase lights but also as construction warning lights (for work). Not looking to bolt more stuff to the outside of my truck, and I really wasn’t comfortable installing hide-aways in my light housings. Then I found this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hidden-strobes-3rd-gen.712014/#post-25320758 from @5nahalf and I was sold! @caribe makaira added a cool diagram https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hidden-strobes-3rd-gen.712014/#post-25359113 and so off I went down the rabbit hole…

    Over the past few weekends I’ve been acquiring materials to attempt to build this. I’m an electrical novice when it comes to a project that involves this much thinking and learning. The Strobe module was about $35, the relay module was $10, so I figured I’d give it a try. Well, ~$300 later, this is what I ended up with:



    I’m definitely not qualified nor knowledgeable to do a step by step write-up, but I thought I’d share some photos of what I did.

    First, I needed to figure out where in the cab I can hide the strobe controller and relay module, which are not small by any means. I ultimately decided to put it in the qi charging cubby, which I use as a cubby anyways.
    20220511_175210.jpg

    I removed the qi charger and replaced it with a plywood bottom and then built a removable box for all the components and wiring:
    20220522_171204.jpg 20220522_171302.jpg

    I installed my strobe switch in the overhead console with a 2-switch plate from Etsy. It would’ve been nice to have my strobe switch next to my pattern select switch, but I saw the cutting involved with a 3-switch plate and said “no thank you” :sawzall:
    20220519_153557.jpg
    *Flux Capacitor*

    Harness behind the instrument cluster:
    20220527_163756.jpg

    My mess of wires (please don’t judge). I also swapped the qi switch spot for my pattern select switch:
    20220527_172728.jpg
    *Passenger Eject*

    Finally finished:
    20220527_180015.jpg

    Initially I followed the diagram in the thread referenced above. Somehow that didn’t work out…once I activated the strobes and then turned them off, the relays wouldn’t switch back to normally closed and my turn signals wouldn’t work. I think it was because the relay module was getting constant power from the Tow Tap wire from the harness. Also, having the momentary switch at the relay wasn’t changing the patterns.

    After much learning and testing, I finally got it work. The strobe controller gets its own power and ground. The relay module and “activate flasher mode” is wired to the same relay to turn on and off with the strobe switch, which lets my turn signals work normally. I wired the momentary switch to the strobe controller’s blue wire. Here is my modified diagram that I did to get it to work for me:
    Strobe Ver3 20220620.jpg
    *edit- power source for Strobe Controller changed to "10A WASHER"


    Enjoy!!
    *disclaimer...I just followed pictures on the internet and my truck hasn't burned down yet :fingerscrossed:.
    Play at your own risk :taco:
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2022
  2. Jun 13, 2022 at 12:56 PM
    #2
    Tacospike

    Tacospike Semi-Unknown Custodial Member

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    Nice job
     
  3. Jun 13, 2022 at 12:57 PM
    #3
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    Great work!
     
    jkcashin likes this.
  4. Jun 13, 2022 at 1:08 PM
    #4
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!

    Thank YOU...your post inspired it all!
     
  5. Jun 13, 2022 at 1:10 PM
    #5
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    Always glad to see people use my ideas and make them better!
     
  6. Jun 13, 2022 at 9:53 PM
    #6
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:
    The towing fuse 20A is always hot, why did you source different circuits for the switches?:confused:
     
  7. Jun 13, 2022 at 10:19 PM
    #7
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean why I have two different sources of power going to the switches? (sorry I'm really a novice so I don't understand all the electrical terms :turtleride:) Mainly for location of the switches. The overhead switch wire ran down the a-pillar and was close to the fuse panel, and the other switch is located in the center so I just tapped that power from the qi switch.

    I didn't know if 20A was too much power for the strobe module which only required 10A or if I needed a fuse. Again, :turtleride:

    I do appreciate feedback and solutions! I'm sure there's a more efficient way.
     
  8. Jun 13, 2022 at 10:25 PM
    #8
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:

    Since the harness needs to be assemble (C10) an added smaller gauge wire with an inline fuse holder (10A) would've completed the job. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2022
  9. Jun 13, 2022 at 10:49 PM
    #9
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha :thumbsup:
     
  10. Jun 13, 2022 at 11:24 PM
    #10
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    What rear lights are those?
     
  11. Jun 13, 2022 at 11:28 PM
    #11
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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  12. Jun 13, 2022 at 11:41 PM
    #12
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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  13. Jun 17, 2022 at 3:42 PM
    #13
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    RC60F Transmission 5.29 R&P FJ Metal Clutch Pedal OEM Mexico-Spec Condenser Fan 265/70R16 Michelin Defender LTX M/S 2 OEM 1-Piece Lug Nuts Custom Built Switch Panel for all Electrical Accessories Rigid Amber Pro D-SS Ditch Lights Rigid 30" SAE High Beam Driving Light Bar Rigid SR-Q Pro Back-Up Light Kit (Recessed) VLEDS Tail Conversion VLEDS Bed Light Kit VLEDS Foot Well Light Kit KC HiLites Cyclone V2 Under Hood Lights Customized 2WD Low Operable (Switched) Clutch Safety Bypass
    Did you compare the VLEDS V6 with the Meso switchbacks? I bought the VLEDS and mine were way worse than Meso, which was a disappointment because VLEDS products are usually awesome. I believe VLEDS designed the switchback for Meso anyways so it’s no surprise the Mesos are so good in my opinion.

    Curious how yours compared.

    I also ended up choosing incandescents for my tail/brake bulbs. I tried the Meso and the VLEDS bulbs and during the day the darker cherry red just doesn’t stand out much in the sun. The more orangy red of the stock bulbs works better in my eyes.
     
  14. Jun 17, 2022 at 3:52 PM
    #14
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The VLEDS switchbacks I purchased are the same that MESO includes in the Stage 2 Tails which are supposed to be wayyy brighter. They are noticeably brighter, but I only see them when I lock and unlock my truck.
    As far as the brake light bulbs, I never see them, but I do like the full horseshoe pattern.
     
    BLtheP[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Jun 17, 2022 at 3:55 PM
    #15
    BLtheP

    BLtheP Constantly Tinkering Member

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    Yeah it’s weird, I don’t know what the deal is but the VLEDS I received were much worse than the Mesos. Who knows. I only see the brakes by sticking a piece of wood on the brake pedal and going out back to see how it looks. Just wanted to make sure I was using the brightest option I could within reason.
     
  16. Jun 17, 2022 at 4:08 PM
    #16
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You could be right. Now thinking about it, sometimes I do think the amber rear signals are not so noticeable. But the white reverse lights...huge difference...almost like headlights for the rear :cool:.

    My front turn signals are these: GTR Carbide Canbus LED's https://www.gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-carbide-2-led-bulbs-7440-7443?quantity=1
    Super bright!!
     
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  17. Jun 20, 2022 at 10:06 AM
    #17
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So may battery died yesterday :(. Coincidence maybe? It was 4 years old, AAA battery. Though I'm sure having my Strobe Controller connected to an always hot source didn't help.

    I moved the source to the 10A WASHER fuse, so it only powers on with the ignition. Turns out the Strobe Controller still remembers the last setting, so it didn't need to be always hot after all :thumbsup:
     
  18. Jun 20, 2022 at 10:52 AM
    #18
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    upload_2022-6-20_13-51-31.jpg
    ON switch is DPST type - provides fused power to relay board and strobe module.
    Momentary switch to select pattern is downstream of On-Off switch.
     
    CMutt8145 and slowpoke16taco[OP] like this.
  19. Jun 20, 2022 at 12:37 PM
    #19
    slowpoke16taco

    slowpoke16taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Much simpler :bowdown:

    So the Tow Tap provides power to everything (board, strobe module, activate flash, and pattern select). Nice! That eliminates the two add-a-fuses I did. I may try to rework this next time I can take apart my dash. :cheers:
     
  20. Jun 21, 2022 at 9:15 AM
    #20
    RedWings44

    RedWings44 Well-Known Member

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    I purchased those same bulbs in 2020 and love them! However, one of them gave up the ghost about two weeks ago and now the website is having issues so I can't seem to order new ones. This is even more disappointing considering I don't use them in the winter so they have probably the equivalent of one to one and a half years of use on them.

    The only other issues I've had with them is that after first installing them, they hyperflash but then it's like the computer adjusts because they work like normal after that. Also, they don't like being used as hazard lights for a long period of time (20 minutes or so). Although I suspect that has more to do with heat than anything. I shut off my hazards and let them cool for a few minutes and they worked like normal again after.

    All 5 of the other bulbs are still working though. (One front and 4 red, rear).
     

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