Stripped Hex Head on Transmission Fluid Check Plug

Folks,

I have a Gen 2 2014 Tacoma TRD Off Road V6/AT. Despite using the proper 5mm hex and a torque wrench @ 15 ft/lbs, I somehow managed to strip the hex hole on the fluid check plug when later removing it to check the level... the one on the lower right of this photo [courtesy of TW user "mountain lion"].

I can remove the plug using a bolt removal kit. However, the dealership parts counter seemed confused in ordering the correct plug since both the fluid check and the drain plug are both called "drain plug". Does anyone know with certainty what the OEM part number is for the Fluid Check/Overflow plug and it's gasket/washer?

I want to double check that the parts counter is ordering the right one before I try removing the stripped plug.

Diagram...
https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...ANSMISSION-CASE--OIL-PAN-ATM/674470-3503.html
I think this is the part... 9034110021

Thanks!

 

Intrigued because i plan to do a flush this summer and am just gonna get new bolts for the fun of it.

 

I would... this was the softest hex head I have seen... felt like aluminum, not steel.

 

I would say that pn 9034110011 would be it. It's hard to tell.
Make sure to get the gasket.
Pn 35178330010
I hope that helps, and it's only a couple of dollars.
You could always order both and not take the one that is wrong. If the dealer has to order both, I don't see not willing to take the one back.

 

Thanks... ended up doing exactly that... ordered both the drain and the fluid check plugs... nothing wrong with having spares... and the gaskets are the same for both. I will post the part numbers when they arrive.

 

Here are the part numbers for each as delivered by the dealership... looks like both plugs have the same length, diameter and thread pitch, so they are interchangeable in a pinch.

 

Were you able to get the bolt out with a bolt extractor? Went to do a drain and refill and this bolt was already in bad shape, rusted and what not, but even with using a hex head socket I still managed to strip it. Im seriously thinking about using the drain plug for a replacement for future ease of removal.

 

Have you tried grabbing it with channel locks? I broke off a ball head Allen piece in there and can't get it out, instead I just grab it with channel locks to remove/install it. I'll likely replace it next time I need to check the ATF level though.

 

Had to channel lock a stripped oil drain plug on the wife's Escape last weekend. Love when that happens.

 

The bolt extractor did not work. The hole is not deep enough for it to gain traction. If you drill it deep enough, fluid will leak out of the hole since the bolt is so short. What I did was...

1. cut a straight groove across the bolt head with a Dremmel cutting wheel [think flathead screw],
   
2. then I used a floor jack under a wide chisel to gently force the chisel upward into the groove while turning the flat chisel neck with an adjustable crescent wrench.
3. don't apply too much force with the floor jack. It is mainly to keep the chisel from backing out of the groove when torqued.

It was quite a contraption!... but it worked...

PS... you certainly can use the regular drain bolt if you want to. Just make sure you remember which is which, or you could end up about 4-quarts low. You can also coat it with anti-seize before installing to keep it from rusting in place.

 

Normally it might, but it does not work on the tranny fluid check bolt... it is recessed into the tranny pan so channel locks and vice grips can't get a good grip... tried several variations before doing what I described above.

 

Nope havent tried that yet, thanks for the tip though. I thought about using some locking pliers but wasnt sure how well it would grab it since its round. Ill give the channel locks a try.

 

I stripped one on my front differential and was able to tap a torx bit in to get a little grip then I used a propane torch to heat the plug a little and it came right out. Afterwards, on the other differential plug and the one on the transmission, I added a little heat and they came right out. Hope this helps.

 

late to the party - do you guys known the thread sizes for the drain-level plug?


i changed fluid @60k per manual and time do again @120k. i noticed how soft the bolt / pan threads were. i’m thinking about buying fresh bolts and a thread tap in case i strip threads in the pan.

i used a torque wrench but had to give it another half turn or so because it was dripping a little the first time. i bought a smaller torque wrench so hopefully no issues but highly concerned at how soft the bolts are.

 

alright i got her done and no issues.

this time i added 6 qt and drove around the block and pulled the “check” drain bolt to set the fill level. she was at temp (97F) right as i was pulling into the drive way and stayed in sweet spot while i pulled the check bolt.

before draining, i loosened the fill bolt first, then the “check” drain/fill level bolt before pulling the drain bolt. bought a smaller torque for the 10mm bolts which worked much better for these soft bolts.

i ordered new 10mm bolts for the main drain bolt (#9034110011) and fill level / “check” drain bolt (#9034110021). also ordered new seal washers #3517830010. i ended up reusing the old bolts and washers with no issues.

 

Replace it with

$9 TOYOTA 90341-10011 Plug, Straight Screw

Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota Parts - Plug, Straight Screw (90341-10011): Automotive also get one for the front diff as it is the same

 

Any idea of what the thread size and pitch are on these things?

 

10-1.5mm

 

no issue using the 9034110011 for both holes but i prefer using the original P/N (9034110021) for the “check” level bolt. the Lexus dealerships still carry 9034110021.


there are many toyo dealerships that sell on fleabay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233013491376

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265181893350

 

Thank you. Much appreciated.