Stop Tech vs Powerstop vs ____

I'm looking to replace and upgrade my rotors & pads since they're time is up. I've read through https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brake-upgrade-stoptech-rotors-trd-performance-pads.523829/ and it helped me get an understanding of what to look for, but I'm just wondering what you guys run as far as aftermarket (I know a lot of people like to run OEM or knockoff OEM). Right now I'm between the setup suggested in the aforementioned thread for ~270 and a powerstop kit for ~185. I know the other thread mentioned how drilled rotors aren't an improvement, but I wanted to know about your good or bad experience with them. Maybe I'm overlooking another good setup. $300 is my max, and the amount of offroading I do is ever growing, but those are my 2 main considerations.

 

I replaced my OEM rotors and pads with the Powerstop kit and hate it. They're still on there 2 years later and I'm finally nearing the point where I got enough use out of them that I can throw them away and go back to a good setup.

Main complaint: noise, boy do they screak. The pads sucked (and I replaced them with OEM pads within 2,000 miles) and the rotors suck (still have them on after 15K miles). Noisey, all the time, and no notable improvement for the hassle. Go for the StopTech, or anything else. The cost savings isn't worth it in this case.

StopTech is good.
Lots of folks like EBC brakes.
Lots of good options.

 

Factory brakes for me.

 

Brembo blank rotors and Hawk LTS pads, very reasonable in price and great performance.

Oh and I did put all stainless steel brake lines in too.

 

OEM replacements for me. Original rotors had 150K miles and could have gone another 25K. Pads last at least 30-40K, more depending on your driving. Proven winner, why switch?

 

Stoptech cryo slotted rotors/TRD pads/Headstrong SS lines up front and Powerstop drums/shoes in the rear. Great setup.

 

Always question why you need a 'upgrade'.

Not saying you don't, but most people don't. They just want to.

If you are properly braking and experiencing fade from heat, you need an upgrade. Most overheating is from improper braking.

If you tow heavy, an upgrade is reasonable. Even with trailer brakes.

But if you can easily activate the ABS, or lock tires on a non ABS, and you don't have heat issues, you don't need an upgrade IMHO.

If you want to improve feel, maybe a better pad / shoe with a bit more initial bite, fresh fluid and maybe new flex lines if yours are old, along with a good bleeding will generally handle that.

My experience with brakes is from daily driving, SCCA solo II, HPDE days and mountain running. Not with trucks in all those of course, but hey, brakes are brakes, so the same principles apply.

 

On 2 2nd gen tacomas and a 5th gen 4Runner, factory brakes have been fine for me. EBC pads on one Taco were fine too.

One thing i noticed is that cleaning and fresh grease on pads made a huge difference on all of them. The groove in the pad surface can get gunk pressed and baked into it. Had some mud/clay cooked in that groove on one tacoma and just chipping that out made the brakes feel like they bit better.

 

This right here.

Its the reason im going with new OEM rotors and OEM semi metallic -04070 pads (these are the pads that come stock from the factory, there is a cheaper ceramic OEM pad replacement -AZ100) but the full original setup has lasted me 100k with great results so thats what im going back to.

 

Stop tech is very good and I have always had great luck with Napa Premium pads

 

Thanks for all the responses, I appreciate hearing the negatives on the powerstop. The last thing I want is exactly what you described.

I get what your saying about whether I need the upgrade or not, and its partially just the way I go about improving the truck at a reasonable pace. I like waiting for something to go bad then upgrade it. My reason for upgrading is that I have a steel front bumper and plan on going the whole 9 yards when it comes to armor, so I figure that would warrant better brakes for the added weight. I have no idea when the rotors/pads were previously changed, but I'm at 125k and want some fresh brakes as I've been getting bad vibrations in the steering wheel lately. I definately appreciate the input though

Sounds like so far its gonna be between OEM with different pads or stoptech. Depending on which rotor I land on, what pads should I pair them with, OEM, TRD, or something else? I'll look into EBC and brembo as well.

 

realisticly, if you want better braking performance due to larger tires / heavier rig, you need to go larger than stock rotors / pads.... there is a writeup on here to do 4 runner big break setup

 

I've considered it, but I'm on 16" rims, so I need to stick with stock size. Hopefully by the time I need new brakes AGAIN I'll go for 17"s and up the rotor size, but that's a longtime away. Hopefully...

 

I have had great luck with stock rotors and the Platinum Ceramic Pads from Carquest. Stop so much better and last, have them on the Taco and 4R.

 

Did you break the pads in the right way after immediately installing ? I have the drilled and slotted Stoptechs for around 60000 miles now and they are fine .

 

Interesting as I put the Powerstop slotted/drilled rotors and Z36 pads on for $150 2 years ago about 30k miles and they have been perfect - no noise, very low dust, and stop better as I tow my 3500lb boat without trailer brakes and it does take longer to stop but better than the stock ones. Without the trailer back there much better stopping than stock but you must do the proper burn in as they tell you to in the instructions.

 

@crashnburn80

 

Stock Tacoma brakes suck when you're asking the truck to do truck type work.

StopTech worked great for me, drilled and slotted with their own proprietary pads. Yeah yeah yeah drilled is no good because it cracks, mine haven't.

Next time I'm going with stock 2010 4Runner rotors, calipers, and pads (pads have a much larger surface area, calipers have 4 pistons instead of 2, and rotors are slightly larger), a 2008 Tundra/Sequoia booster and master cylinder (bigger master cylinder bore, dual diaphragm booster vs single), SS lines (firmer pedal feel), and every single part that will eventually wear out can be purchased at any parts store on the planet.

 

Generally speaking, the cross-drilled rotors are probably only going to crack if you send them thru a drastic temperature cycle(i.e. you've been using them a lot descending the trail and then quench them in a 30* creek crossing and 'shock' the metal). Also, there is proprietary dimensions (I used to cnc machine Brembo North America sport rotors) to ensure there are no 'weak' points between holes(even though you really don't want more than one hole per vane, increases cracking risk). You probably won't get this with the cheap knock-off brands as theirs are more for looks and have not been R&D'd like Brembo or Stoptech do.

 

I did, the best one can around town without just brake checking everyone in the process (no matter how remote/isolated I try to get in town, there's always someone that pops up behind you before you can continuously do several cycles of the break in).

You have StopTechs, I'm talking about my experience with Powerstop brand. They worked fine, really the noise was my main complaint. At times, it was screeching and sometimes more of a low pitch moan. Even now, with OEM pads and the powerstop rotors, they're making a low pitch "errrrrrrr" as I come to a complete stop, whether wet/dry/hot/cold/etc.