Steering Intermediate Shaft Replacement.....??

The steering on my 2012 has become a little difficult and "notchy" (is that a word?) where it feels like it binds up a bit the releases. I believe it's the intermediate shaft. I sprayed it down with a penetrant and it seems to turn easier.

I've found OEM shafts for around $170 and some unbranded ones for $30+ on Ebay. The cheap one's I'm very skeptical of, being that this is a vital component. I'm leaning towards getting the OEM replacement just for peace of mind. At $170, it's still a lot cheaper than brain surgery or a mortician.

Unless someone can convince me otherwise I'm going to go with the Toyota shaft.

Any tips on the actual replacement? I'm leaning to have a shop do the work.....

 

It’s not difficult to replace. You might have to work at it to separate the joint. The one key thing to remember is not to let the steering wheel spin so that you don’t end up damaging the clock spring. The steering lock should hold it if you have the keys out of the ignition. Other option is to tie off the wheel.

 

If you want my 2 cents, go OEM. The aftermarket shafts I've seen look really, really scary. And it's only your steering we're talking about. I wouldn't chance it.

As for the job itself, as has already been said, the biggest pain is separating the old shaft at the splined coupler. Soak it with penetrating oil for a few days prior and you should be fine. And yes, do tie off the steering wheel. After you install it, I'd recommend coating it with marine (corrosion inhibiting) grease or Fluid Film to prevent future corrosion.

 

Yea, that's my feeling. Some of the aftermarket ones look a little sketchy.

I came across this boot to protect the U-joint....

 

I've seen those, and I only have one concern. If water does get in - and it will - it will get trapped in there and actually cause more corrosion.

 

If packed with waterproof grease I think it would be no different than what cv axles experience regarding exposure to the elements.

 

Properly packed and sealed - agreed.

 

If I have to replace mine, I’d probably “paint” it first with Amsoil HD metal protect. It dries to a waxy film and has protected my frame very nicely. Boot with grease wouldn’t hurt either but make sure there’s enough room for the slider to function properly.

 

Slider? Are you referring to the booted section? Isn't that the section that is designed to collapse in the event of a collision to protect the driver?

 

I wouldn’t use the boot. I rebuilt my own steering shaft with a greasable u-joint from All Balls that cost like $20

 

Yes, there is a collapsible slider in there. As long you have room when the slider is completely collapsed for a boot over the joint, you’re okay. What I’m trying to say is not to add anything that would get in the way of fully collapsing.

Edit: 20ish years ago, I used to work at the Timken Steering Systems plant in Watertown, CT. Now called Global Drive Systems. We didn’t make Toyota product but many other makes. I oversaw intermediate shaft lines for Ram, F150, KJ, XJ, TJ. They also made columns for A class, GM, golf carts, etc...

 

Ok, so you're the one to ask because of your knowledge and experience. Honest question, in the event of the shaft collapsing as designed in an accident, wouldn't that force be able to overcome a tie rap or a small band clamp? Again, it's an honest question.....

 

You’d think so but things can jam up the slider as it collapses. In an accident, it’s a very rapid almost instantaneous shock.

Somewhere on here, there’s a thread on replacing the u-joints. Although they aren’t supposed to be replaceable, it can be done as long as the yokes gets staked again after the joint caps are pressed in. The only thing missing with replacing them is the preload that is placed on the yoke. We would slightly spread the yoke as the caps are pressed in and the stake the cap. Makes for a very smooth tight feel without any lash.

 

How does the slider deal with a build up of corrosion over time and if it does build up, how does it overcome it?

 

The units I used to make were either a Teflon coated spline that was also greased or an over molded double D shape (flats on both sides) with grease as well. They only need to pass a certain amount of time in a salt spray chamber. Never saw a failure at that time but they could be made to fail (not fully collapse) given a longer time in the salt humidity.

 

Interesting..... Please weigh in on this.....

If one were to successfully replace the u-joint and leave the slider intact maybe doubling or significantly extending the service life of the shaft, the slider would have been exposed (to a certain degree) to corrosives and possibly going beyond it's design parameters regarding corrosion resistance.

Overthinking, I know......

 

I would hope that if someone was going to go thrall off the trouble to replace the u-joints, the shaft itself would be in decent condition. Honestly, if I had to replace mine, I’d review what’s available in the aftermarket world and treat it before installing. Something from a commercial auto parts store like Napa or even RockAuto not like Auto Zone.

 

Not the worst project on my 08 that I did almost 2 years ago. Couple hours in the garage total-most of the time spent trying to make room to get it to wobble its way out. Installing the new one was a breeze. Maybe 20 min tops including torqueing to spec etc and cleaning everything up. I also thought about adding my own sort of rubber sleeve/filling it with grease and zip tying it together but didn't worry enough. It made it 134k miles the first time.

I mostly followed this advice and it was super helpful-https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lazy-mans-guide-to-the-replacing-the-intermediate-shaft.671990/

My own tips below.

• PB blast everything like it's going out of style a couple days/multiple times before you tear into it. It helps a ton. Some hammer action to rattle stuff loose helps & feels good too. This tip is advisable on every single Tacoma project-especially if your truck lives back east with the salt (mine was in SW PA for 8 years)
• Park your truck at whatever angle you need to access the bolts. I am pretty sure I left mine nearly straight. Once you have it set-park it, lock the steering wheel (key out) and lock the door. I didn't do anything else special to keep the steering wheel from moving-note the blue rope in the picture below-bought specific for this project and didn't use.
• Mark the connection points top & bottom (little white/yellow paint pen mark). Give's you reference for if you move the steering wheel and kept me from worrying that stuff was moving on me.

• Buy three new threaded bolts and just replace the old ones. You won't feel bad it you have to cut or strip the old ones. I just ordered them with the drive shaft online. Part # is all you need.
  $8 Genuine Toyota 90080-11555 Bolt With Washer For Steering Column And Shaft
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-90080-11555-Washer-Steering/dp/B00KX94TSM
• Be patient getting the shaft to come out. It will come. Wiggle it back and forth-more PB blaster. Small pry bar, bigger pry bar, some vulgarity if needed. Above all, patience.
• Just buy OEM. One less thing to worry about cruising down the road.

• Before you button everything up make sure the alignment is correct and the bolts are torqued to spec. (26ft-lbf)
• Don't fret if steering wheel and wheels aren't aligned when it is all finished. You just need to undo the bolts and adjust a notch or two. I didn't have this problem once I locked my steering wheel and mirrored the placement on the splines between the new and old.

Solid project that will give instant satisfaction when it is done correctly. Good luck.

 

Thanks guys! The shaft and bolts are ordered. Warm weather is currently out of stock and back ordered. I'm going to try booting the U-joint. Time will tell....

 

Another question..... If I lock and secure the steering wheel and keep the tire(s) on the ground, then marking won't be necessary? As long as the flat on the upper corresponds with the upper bolt?