SPC TYPE B UCA Bushing replacement - Polybushing

SPC UCA for Tacoma
https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=25470

Typical part numbers you'll come across:
25001- SPC Ball joint
25400 - Toyota specific signifier
25470 - Tacoma specific signifier
25472A/3A - Type A UCA arm (Driver/ Passenger)
25472B/3B - Type B UCA arm (Driver/ Passenger)
25476 - Poly-bushing replacement kit
25477 - Replacement Ball joint Boots
25030 - X-AXIS BUSHING REPLACEMENT KIT

Hello whom reads this,
myself and a few others needed to replace bushings for our SPC uppers (as well as ball joints) and this is a bit of a findings guide/ tutorial for replacement.

There are two main types of UCA's by SPC for Tacomas; 25472/3 in Type A and type B.

Type A are the older versions of the SPC where it is the tube-type/welded variant.
Type B is the newer, stamped steel type, as seen here;



SPC has 2 main types of bushings; their "lower tiered" Polybushings / SpecRide, and their "fancy" X-Axis bushing. According to SPC, the Polybushings will not fit the Type B but will fit just fine on the Type A, however I can confirm that is not the case.

The SPC Polybushings/ SpecRide bushings does (will) fit the Type B version of the SPC UCAs.

Worn out X-Axis:


UCA Bushing removal tool: Simple Balljoint press (cups inside the kit were used to press out the old bushings without following SPC's "removal guide" (where you drill out old bushing and then use a sawz-all to remove the steel shim/ pipe.)


Balljoint press tool, using the cups to push out the old bushings.







We attempted to use a hydraulic press, it does not work as well as the balljoint press.




anvil and press, use tapered side of Bushing towards the "inside" of the "U" of the UCA.
add lubrication to let the Polybushing slip in




give it a good wack.




besides that. it's a drop-in fit. there is no wobble and no issues after 2 weeks of driving.

Photos and installation by myself
"guide" Written by @Shveet

 

Interesting... I'm at 140K miles on Type A. I changed both bushings @ 30K miles, I had one side which was shot for some reason. I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension this weekend and checked my SpecRides, they still have a bit of life left in em after 110K miles. It seems like the SpecRides might be the way to go and that it's good news that they fit Type B.

I don't wheel, but I don't have a mall crawler either, I must of logged at least 25K on logging roads for work, usually at a fairly quick pace . I'm quite pleased with the SpecRides.

 

I toasted my SPC X-Axis after 50,000km which kinda sucks but i have abused them on some wheeling trips so also shouldnt be too surprised.
I was mostly annoyed that SPC states the specrides dont fit the Type B bushings and they are pushing their (more expensive) x-axis for both type B (as normal maintenance) and type A (via their "conversion" kit.

Going to get myself a balljoint press kit and install the specRides myself.

Optionally for those that want to be crafty enough;
Polybushing and shim dimensions (± a few millimeters as i dont have the most accurate of calipers)

 

It would be nice if someone would make rubber or poly bushings for these other than SPC. I really don't want to give SPC any more money given their long history of putting unproven parts out on the market.

 

I also noticed that the last photo shows a gap between the bushing barbed end and the uca. If you look at the old style UCAs, there is no gap. Not sure if the gap matters.

 

I put my measurements up incase someone wants to see if ARB leaf bushings or some other company's bushings will fit.

the SPCs i got were repackaged as Mevotechs. Ordered Mevotech bushings off of rock auto, and 2 different sizes. Kinda knew it wasnt going to fit, jut sucks that SPC didnt stick with OEM sizing for UCAs like other aftermarket ones did, where it just uses oem parts but has the adjustments set solid.

 

When i was looking at @Tacoguayaco s truck, i noticed the same thing. i dont think it matters as it is pinned in place due to the assembly of the UCA onto the shock tower.
So you have bolt, bushing washer, bushing + steel sleeve, shock tower, and mirrored that for the other have of the arm.
The bolt compresses the washer into the steel sleeve and the steel sleeve is pinned against the shock tower, and then to the other side in the same manner.

The polybushing itself only bears weight/ rotation, but even then its pinned against the washer and the UCA so it cant actually move.
The only downside is that dirt could get onto the wear surface of the bushing and eventually make its way between the UCA and bushing wear surface causing it to fail faster.

 

@Tacoguayaco might have installed the bushings incorrectly.
Looking at my bushings adjacent to the UCA arm and sleeve. Having the fat/ thick portion of the polybushing on the outside and up against the sleeve of the UCA arm, it offsets the shim a bit. Towards the outside



If we have the taperd side outside of the UCA sleeve
Its 3mm narrower (so 6mm in total)

@Tacoguayaco did you have issues with installing the UCA? Was it a loose fit (should be technically) ?


time for more research!

Edit: if you press the bushings from the outside (thick flange out, tapered in) , you can compensate using the washers from the kit and use the OEM bushing washers on the outside

 

wonder if polytuff makes bushings for the 3rd gen yet.

 

So ended up removing the X-axis bushings to swap in the Poly ones from SPC. and i'm posting my own findings.


Tried using a 1-3/4" hole saw to remove the middle bit, I toasted a drill this way since the rubber almost liquifies at some point and gums up. so using a drill to punch a hole between the interior ball joint and the steel outer sleeve (through the rubber).
and fed through a coping saw blade and just hacked away in a full circle.

then hack sawd out the sleeve, using a punch to push the steel sleeve inwards releasing it from the UCA.



Cleaned and filed smooth

i hate these SPC ball joint bushings more than i hate not having the correct tool.

This is the gap i was talking about between the Poly bushing and edges.

when i greased and pressed in the bushings, figured to slap in a 3D printed ring to take up the spot to prevent it from shifting around.
Ended up following @Tacoguayaco 's (after getting convinced otherwise by @3JOH22A ) way of install with the thicker flange on the outside. however i think i should have followed my original idea of having the thick flange on the inside.
the gap below is the UCA pressed against the one side of the shock tower and the remaining gap on the other side. almost a good 10mm of spacing.


Even with 2 washers (SPC's supplied washers on the insides of the UCAs and the OEM washers on the outside there is about a 3-4mm gap that remains, would need to add in another supplied washer to make up that difference.
HOWEVER this is only when you hand tighten it. Once you start reaching torque spec (85ftlbs), that gap closes and is no longer there (see 2nd image below)


So basically the sandwich is:

• Bolt head+ flange
  
• oem curved washer
• spc polybushing/ steel sleeve
• spc supplied washer
• shock tower sleeve
• vise versa the above

i think it would also benefit having it flipped around (washers) as the OEM washer is the weird bent/ tapered one

since the tapered side of the poly bushing is smaller than the wide flange, there isn't any reason to not have the OEM flange against it as it has enough surface area to make contact with it.

• teal = OEM bolt
• red = SPC poly bushing
• gray = oem washer
• dark blue = spc flat washer
• pink = SPC uca
• green = Shock tower tube
• purple = 3D printed spacer ring
• brown = text
  

But yeah, thanks for listening to my TED talk

 

Awsome post Shveet. I should think McMaster Carr sells a washer that would fill up the gap, so that there is no need to put the arms in compression. The amount of stress put into the arms is probably insignificant to affect the arms, but it might put more friction between the bushing and the flat washer.

 

So you mean to tell me. I can put the "old school" standard bushings in my current arms that came with X-Axis bushings?!

 

Sure can! I just did. Was able to press out 2 but the other 2 had to cut the sleeve to get them out.

pressing the new ones in is way easier

 

How come everyone isn’t replacing with the x-axis ones?

 

General consensus is that they have a high failure rate compared to spec ride.

 

And they are usually out of stock and over priced.
And they suck to replace compared to spec ride

 

Also absolutely a pain in the ass to remove the old and install new ones...
With the poly stuff, its an easy press both ways but the x-axis needs a full blown press to get into place

 

Anyone try these?
https://amzn.to/47XyKc0

I'm thinking that they may be a good option.

 

Interesting but good option in what way? Looks like an x-axis replacement? Price point is good but Moog?

 

fairly similar to the OEM bushings that last for well over 100K. My SPC X-axis has failed with less than 10K miles. I just got a new set from SPC under warranty.
Poly bushings will require greasing.