Spark Plug Replacement

All,

I'm about to go ahead and replace the spark plugs on my 21 Tacoma SR (66k miles). Planning to following Team Oil Drop's spark plug video (linked below). All seems straightforward enough and I've got all the tools and more.

Before I go ahead, any other recommendations or tips from those of you who've replaced your spark plugs?

Thanks

Spark plug replacement video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc9FYrD7vUw&t=58s&ab_channel=TeamOilDrop

 

i havent done it , but make sure its the correct part, be patient, and dont over torque or under torque

 

Passenger side, piece of cake . Drivers side not so easy just take your time and you may have to move a bracket to get to a few . Other than that nothing else.

 

for the brackets on the driver's side of the engine, remove the bolts at the top and for the lower, harder to reach bolts, use extensions and a swivel socket to loosen the lower bolts by accessing them through the wheel well, then you can swing the bracket out of the way and not have to use the force to miracle the lower bolts back into place

 

Honestly people over exaggerate how difficult the driver's side is.

You just loosen/remove the bracket bolts, then pull the foam shield out.

Swap plugs just the same as passenger side after that.

As long as you have a swivel and extension it's not hard by any means.

 

Awesome, thanks y'all!

 

^Sheer genius.
Why not throw in "and stay hydrated"

 

@jmneill

stay hydrated and dont forget to put on sun block woke up on the wrong side of the bed lol

 

yep you must drink water even if your not thirsty soldier , now drop and give me 50 pushups @WilliamJames

 

I changed my plugs when the engine was stone cold. Sat over night and changed them the next morning. Came out and went back in very easy.

 

As previous post above: I recommend doing the job with the engine cold. (example: sitting overnight) Go easy on the anti-sieze if you use it. Just a hint on the threads and distribute it with a small cut-off toothbrush: no little globs. The threads on the Denso plugs are nickel plated and I don't use it. Either NGK or Denso (or both) do not recommend anti-seize on the threads. Do them one at a time.

Have fun!

 

Also look into anti-seize or no anti-siege. Denso recommends no anti-siege, but many on TW like to use a little dab.

 

This socket helped me out a lot .

 

Make sure you have a good spark plug socket. The one I used (from Husky) left the rubber grommet behind on one of the plugs, and it was a pain to get it out plus get the grommet re-seated just right in the socket. Besides that the job wasn't too bad overall. I think I needed two universal joints and a few extensions for one of the ones on the driver's side. You'll have access to the PCV valve while you're working on the driver's side, but at 66k miles it's almost certainly fine, and you're more likely to break it putting it back than to find a problem. Mine looked fine at 129k miles.

There is one clip securing a wire that I used pliers from underneath to release. Sorry, don't have a picture right now. But if you look around for a similar clip you can find one and figure out how it comes out.

 

Drive the truck to operating temps, shut it down, lay out your tools, and OEM sparkplugs. I do the hard side first. Know your dry torque for the plugs, no grease! It took me under 1.5 hours.

 

AMEN! I have one and it really made the plug change go a lot smoother last weekend. Last plug on the driver's side was definitely loose.

 

I have the gear wrench version and second that recommendation. And I am in the anti seize camp (i use high temp nickle version not copper). After the smallest dab with a qtip i then i wipe/twist it in a single sheet of paper towel leaving an ultra thin coat with non near electrode (there is more left on the paper towel than the plug). And i am using the Denso plugs not the "tri valent plated" NGK ones. I also use an actual inch/pound torque wrench and slightly reduce the setting (20%) since anti-seize can act as as lubricant.On my 2015 the change interval is a modest 30K but i would be almost certain to use it on the ones with the 100K intervals. Not sure if still recommended for those but a remove check reinstall at 50K used to be called for.

Note. Copper is much more reactive in contact with aluminum than nickle (and why i use nickle and maybe why NGK plates with it.) But without an electrolyte like salt water involved even this is almost nill

Has it helped thats hard to say. Plugs have never loosened and have always come out without issue but maybe they would anyway...
Certainly hasn't hurt.

There are about an equal # of articles/ video on the "no" category as there are on how to remove seized plugs from aluminum heads.

IMHO the recommendation against anti-seize is due to those who just slather it on like cake icing and don't lower torque setting (20%) to compensate.

P.S. Dont let the dealer do this. For my 2015 V6 they quoted 3 hrs at $108 plus plugs ($400 after taxes) . Based on video's and lots of helpful info here I did the job first time in 1.5 hrs. Book time is a (insert expletive here) rip off

And i want to use it all up all my anti-seize before i pass on so i don't have to bother including it in my will

 

More importantly, don't order plugs off Amazon or eBay. There are a lot of documented counterfeits that appear to be real, which can cause significant engine problems very fast.

 

More you do it the faster you get

 

If you have all the parts and materials give yourself 2-3hrs( it doesn’t take that long). This video is good, he makes everything sound way more daunting than reality.