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Sound-proofing/sealing doors

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ssoulssurfer, Jul 16, 2018.

  1. Jul 19, 2018 at 10:20 AM
    #21
    ssoulssurfer

    ssoulssurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha thanks. That's partly why I thought of doing this in the first place - the "vapor barrier", is that the plastic stuff underneath the door panel? Cuz that was missing when I took off my doors, so figured I should cover that to minimize dust and stuff while offroading. That's the only problem offroading in the deserts of socal, gets real dusty.

    Do you just use cardboard as a jig for the big piece to cover the door, or just cut to fit before removing the backing to stick? The guy in that video I looked at used "tesa tape" but that stuffs expensive.
     
  2. Jul 19, 2018 at 9:50 PM
    #22
    beez

    beez Well-Known Member

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    Yea, the vapor barrier is the plastic seal between the metal of the door, and the plastic of the interior door panel. On my old MK2 Jetta, the door panels were cardboard! So having a good seal from the elements was necessary to keep the door cards from falling apart. Makes it much quieter and helps when the A/C is running, etc.

    I just used 2 mil plastic sheet from Home Creepo when I repaired my Jetta's vapor barrier, it was one big sheet, I cut a larger than the door peice out, used silicone adhesive to stick it to the door, and then used a razor blade to cut the excess off.

    The material I bought for my Taco came in small squares, when I lined the back of my cab, I just placed each sheet, then just placed the next sheet right up next to the last sheet. When I had to cut a piece down, I just eyeballed the size, used a razor knife and ruler to cut it, and used the scrap pieces to fill the gaps. It doesn't have to be perfect, that's why I got the black colored stuff, since my truck is black. I ended up overlapping some of the smaller pieces, and I might cover it with carpet anyways.

    For the doors, it might make sense to make a cardboard template, then transfer that to the sheet, if you are going to use the stuff that comes in one big sheet. There are tons of youtube videos on this topic. The ********* guys have a good one that covers doors. I might end up running out of the stuff I got when I do the floor, so I might go the big sheet route for the doors, and then add a thin layer of carpet pad to add some dampening, I am planning on upgrading the door speakers at the same time, might as well do it right the first time.

    This is what I got:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079LV7VFK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    If I got with the same material for the doors, I'll just overlap each piece an inch or so to maintain the seal. Or place a layer of that thin silver duct tape down first, to get a good seal, then get most of the door with the Vibro stuff, as I said before, you don't need to get the whole panel, just a large part of it. The butyl rubber is very dense, and will absorb the vibrations from audio and road noise pretty well. The box of 20 squares was surprisingly heavy!
     
    Colchicine likes this.
  3. Jul 19, 2018 at 11:52 PM
    #23
    bluzrider

    bluzrider Well-Known Member

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    Yup, covered pretty much most of the interior & door panels with Dynamat years ago. People still trip out how dead the sound is when closing the doors and knocking on the outside panels.

    dynamt_prep.jpg
     
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  4. Jul 20, 2018 at 10:11 AM
    #24
    ssoulssurfer

    ssoulssurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow, would be so much work to take out all the lining but I guess ultra quiet in the end. I ordered the sound skins pro, comes with the butyl and acoustic foam. Should I put some of that 2 mm plastic between that and the door to seal from dust/dirt? Or the sound dampening stuff should be fine to seal on the door?

    I'm still totally lost on the speaker wiring in another post (how to double check which wire is "+" and "-": https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/speaker-wiring-polarity.558856/#post-18285672
    My speakers are labeled "+" and "-" but not the wires coming from the truck (not even the stock colors either)
     
  5. Jul 20, 2018 at 10:25 AM
    #25
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    What about the OEM speakers? Are they labeled + & - ?
     
  6. Jul 20, 2018 at 10:35 AM
    #26
    ssoulssurfer

    ssoulssurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't know if they were the oem speakers. The wiring looks different than what I checked is supposed to be the stock colors of the wires. When I took out the old speakers, I just matched the way they were connected, they're good JBL 3 way speakers and just don't sound right. They sound way better in my camry.
     
  7. Jul 21, 2018 at 6:04 PM
    #27
    beez

    beez Well-Known Member

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    Yeah my truck is a single cab, so it has minimal panels to remove.

    I would just pick a color for the positive and negative wires, and just wire the speakers all the same. It won't make difference unless youre adding a sub, and then you can just flip the phase if it sounds off.
     
  8. Jul 21, 2018 at 7:08 PM
    #28
    QMEDJoe

    QMEDJoe Proverbs 3:5-6

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    Fox 2.0 Coilovers in the front and Fox 2.0’s in the rear, Total Chaos UCA’s, Al-lpro expo leafs, K&N cold air intake, TRD headers,Magnaflow catback exhaust,URD short throw shifter, switched out my 60/40 bench seat for some Tacoma Limited seats, Replaced the vinyl shift boot for a leather one, completely soundproofed the cab w/ Frost King. Replaced stock radio with a Pioneer AVH series head unit. Focal component system w/a 10" sub powered by 2 Alpine amps. Weathertech floor mats. Line-X'd the bed. SCS Ray 10’s, Installed an A.R.E. MX series camper shell. All-Pro Apex front bumper w/ All-Pro skid plates all the way back to the Trans. Low Range fuel skid plate.
    I did the same thing. I stripped the entire interior, swept, vacuumed and wiped with alcohol. Then sprayed with spray glue both the surface and the back of the sticky side of the frost king. It’s as quiet as a Lexus!
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2018
    cruiserguy likes this.
  9. Jul 21, 2018 at 7:18 PM
    #29
    poseytaco

    poseytaco Well-Known Member

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    This!
     
  10. Jul 22, 2018 at 9:37 AM
    #30
    ssoulssurfer

    ssoulssurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Driving around town and on the freeway, it seems like the majority of just road noise is coming from the doors. I may do more once I finish the doors. How easy is it to remove and reinstall everything, like the carpet or roof? Are they held in with tabs like on the door?

    @beez - so they just need to have the same connection, doesn't matter which is actually + or - ? That makes more sense, maybe I'll just do that thanks.
     
  11. Jul 22, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #31
    beez

    beez Well-Known Member

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    I get a lot of heat coming up front the center console area in my truck, and I want to clean up the amplifier wiring in my truck, so I'll just do it all at the same time when I pull the seat and carpet out. I have a bench so it will be less work I think.

    Polarity of the speakers only matters as long as you get them all the same. Otherwise the speakers will be out of phase, one will be pushing when the other is pulling, and will sound weird. If you add a sub, then you want that to be in phase with the rest of the speakers, on my headunit I can change the phase of the sub so changing wiring isn't necessary.
     
  12. Jul 23, 2018 at 1:30 AM
    #32
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Supercharged, AEM FIC/6, Meth Inj, ION Alloy's, Radio & Phone steering Wheel controls,Fabtech AAL, Billie's wrapped with 880's , Tundra big brake conversion, bully bars and Pioneer DDin Stereo/dvd with exterrnal usb ports. 290K and going strong.
    I sealed all my sound deadening seams with rubberized undercoating inside the door.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2018
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  13. Jul 23, 2018 at 4:18 AM
    #33
    TEXAS BS

    TEXAS BS Formerly known as MMXVII

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    I hope you didn’t seal the drain vents in the very bottom of the doors. If you did the doors will rust out.
     
  14. Jul 23, 2018 at 9:41 AM
    #34
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Oh no didn't do that. The drains are wide open.
     
  15. Jul 23, 2018 at 11:14 AM
    #35
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    I’ll be interested to hear your feedback on the soundskins product. I tried finding some user info on it a while back but I couldn’t find much
     
  16. Jul 23, 2018 at 12:42 PM
    #36
    ssoulssurfer

    ssoulssurfer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @boostedka - yea there wasn't lot of info but figured I'd try it, I like that it comes mulitlayer. Let ya know when I get it and install

    @beez - I forgot to mention that before too! when I'm offroading, tends to get pretty hot near the stick shift, guess just the design, no other place to dissipate when gettin overworked
     
  17. Jul 23, 2018 at 12:48 PM
    #37
    kgarrett11

    kgarrett11 Master Yoda

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    Did the ENTIRE truck with deadener, foam, and MLV last year. A ton of freakin work, but the results are glorious.
     
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  18. Jul 23, 2018 at 3:27 PM
    #38
    lukester78

    lukester78 Well-Known Member

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    Tell me more, where'd he shove the napkin, and what do you mean by screw cover?
     
  19. Jul 23, 2018 at 5:05 PM
    #39
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    I like that it’s multi layered as well. I’ve been looking into doing CLD tiles, MLV, and CCF. But idk how it would fit behind the door panel of these 95-00 Tacoma’s.
     
  20. Jul 23, 2018 at 5:24 PM
    #40
    beez

    beez Well-Known Member

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    The screw cover that Im talking about is one of the two little plastic covers on the armrest, on the door panel.
     

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