Sound-proofing/sealing doors

Like I just started discussing with jbrandt in another post, anybody done something like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIzkhrkTZwk

My doors lack the plastic weather stuff to seal the holes (I noticed when I pulled the panel off to install speakers). I think they could really use some sound deadening material (like when I close the doors even they're really noisy). Not to mention lots of rattle while driving, and hopefully improved sound from the stereo.

The doors just sound hollow too...

Dynamat, sound skins, or...?

Saw this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dyc-11102

or this: https://soundskinsglobal.com/products/soundskins-pro-door-kit?variant=12467586990122

 

In the Miata world, people have used the aluminized paper found @ Home Depot/Lowes, and yes when I get to do speakers, I'll be adding it to the Taco doors.

 

It’s really easy ive done it. Just make sure to buy plenty extra of theplastic tabs and the trim removal tool.
Then just cut the stuff to shap and holes for all the wires and door handle

 

I did all of the panels of my doors with Frost King duct insulation from Home Depot. It is foil backed sticky foam. I went from tinny, rattly sound when closing door to a solid thud, like an old time Cadillac. I also did all of the interior as well, floors, back panel, roof. Looked like I was afraid of alien death rays!!

 

Mud tires always win!!

 

I bought some stuff on Amazon, I wanted black for the rear of the cab.

 

I wanna do this to mine, not a fan of rattling

 

I did under the headliner it really cut the noise when it rains.

 

I want to say yes, because it was a fair amount of work. However, if there was an effect it was not enough to be noticeable. There was a big difference in temperature between the silver truck vs my prior dark blue truck.

 

The material I used has an aluminum foil exterior, so it should help with keeping the inside cooler, although on my single cab, there is a large window to steel ratio.

I notice that I get the most heat radiating up from the floor, so I will either double up or use a second layer of a thicker insulating material when I pull the carpet.

Just by doing to back wall made a noticeable difference in road noise, although my truck runs pretty quiet.

 

The aluminum tape stuff from Lowe's is great on the floor, because the aluminum layer is thicker and therefore.keeps heat out better you can add carpet padding from Lowe's on the floor too, super cheap, durable and adds cushion and sound proofs. Mass loaded vinyl is a good thing you can get relatively cheap as well and can be used to reach places the padding can't, like up onto the firewall and back of the cab.

Spring for dynamat, second skin, fatmat, etc on the doors though. They have a lot more mass to them than the Lowe's stuff, you only need to apply small squares until it deadens the resonance of the panel, the dynamat itelf isn't meant to keep sound out, just kill the vibrations in a panel. It's easy to go overboard and spend a ton and end up wasting material.

If you want to go real crazy get some closed cell foam and stuff it in any open hole you can find that goes straight to the exterior. The roof is a huge source of resonance as well, so installing dynamat on the roof panel under the headliner makes just as much difference as the doors do.

 

Mine got Second Skin and dang is it sticky, the whole truck covered inside roof to floor. The stereo only needs to be on 2 to hear it with agro tires and loud exhaust. It does insulate, my a/c freezes me now.

 

I did my doors. I'll post some pictures in the morning.

 

I don't like all that foil stuff in my cab. It really cuts back on the reception from the mother ship, making it difficult to understand their instructions...

 

This. but i used second skin. only covered 60% of the doors, floor and roof. i need to do the trunk cuz thats where its still loud.

 

I used GT Mat inside the doors then sealed around it with rubberized undercoating. Added some gt mat on the inside door card. (What everything bolts to.) Then Rammat 1/8 foam. 1/16inch Mass lodaed vinyl (MLV) Then on the inside of the door panels i lined them with material.

 

I used ebay cheap stuff on my race truck and it worked wonders and has help up for 7 years now.

 

Did this when installing new speakers. Works very well. Back doors and back of cab will be done this weekend. Noico 50 mill from Amazon.

 

Thanks everybody. I'm thinking I'm gonna do the sound skins pro since it's multilayer, and don't have to get separate layers like dynamat. Good to hear people have used it and liked it. IMO, I'd rather pay a little more for something that designed to deaden sound.

Just wondering with things like the locking rod and door rod, those must be the culprit of road rattle noise, how do you deaden those? Wrap them in the sound deadening material, or when I put the whole layer on the door, just make a small hole in the material for them to pass through, or...?

Now everybody has me wondering if it's worth doing the roof, floor, or the back wall of the truck. Maybe I'll do the doors first and go from there. I'd be a little nervous to remove the carpet and stuff and not be able to get it installed back in the same condition.

 

I was nervous just doing the rear of my single cab, because of the trim around the seat belts. But if you can handle the doors, the floor will be cake. there isnt much other than the seats and center console.

I wouldn't worry too much about the lock stuff in the doors, once you get most of the door panel lined up, it will make more sense where any potential vibrations will occur. The way that the sound deadening stuff works means that you don't have to line the entire panel, just 25% as the butyl rubber in the material will absorb most vibrations. You want to line the whole thing since you will be removing the vapor barrier though. Just leave enough room around the door lock rods so they will still work.

Once you get the panel lined up, I would use some good duct tape (the thin silver stuff from Home Depot works great) to make sure that the door is completely sealed up, you don't want wind to blow through into the cab. I have that problem now in my truck, whoever installed the door actuators cut the vapor barrier and I'm missing one of the screw covers in the door panel, so cold air blows into my leg when it's cold out.

The previous owner had shoved a napkin in the hole, I was wondering why he did that, until one cold night!