Sound Deadener Recommendations

Looking to use sound deadening for a speaker upgrade, possibly a sub, and most importantly to reduce road noise. I have used Dynamat and Second Skin audio products in the past, and am considering Fat Mat this go round. Will be doing the back wall, below seat area, all doors, and eventually the roof. Also wasn't sure if any group buys are going on, I didn't see any though. Thanks for your input.

 

Dynamat is great but crazy expensive for what you actually get IMO. I did all 4 doors and behind the rear seats with this stuff:

Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012B5EMGO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks/feels/behaves like dynamat but half the price. Has worked as desired for me. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yea, dynamat is pricey. I had to use some on my 2nd Gen when I didn't have enough of the stuff from Second Skin Audio. How'd it cut down on road noise?

 

^ x2 for Noico. I've used it here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removing-your-headliner-and-insulating-sound-deadening.394469/

Although for different purposes, but I have enough left over to do my doors whenever I get around to it.

 

Used this too.

Zero smell to it on hot days.

I suggest using a small space heater to warm each cut panel before installing. Makes it MUCH easier. A heat gun may work too, but my ocilating space heater did a great job.

 

Well I have KO2's rumbling around, so road noise is always there for me

I will say just doing the 4 doors and rear, when I crank the music and shut all the doors you certainly can't hear much from outside the truck.

 

In addition to the noico CLD panels, they sell a roll of foam 315 mil on Amazon which will help even more and provide insulation as well. You can do less of the 50 mil inside door skin and against panel as well, then cut out an entire sheet of the foam and lay it over the whole door panel with cutouts for speaker/wire.

 

I went with Stinger Expert Mat. Did the doors and back wall. 100 bucks for the bulk kit on Ebay. No complaints.

 

@BravesTaco95 this might be a better place to find your answer.

 

How much would I need for just the panel behind the rear seats? Installing a Molle panel in place of the bins.

 

Sound Skins FTW

 

sound skin is good stuff. Just pricy. Stinger mat does the trick. The Bulk kit was more than enough to do the front doors and back wall.

 

All of these products everyone is mentioning are not for controlling sound. They are used to control vibrations (which does control sound to some extremely limited extent, like 1-2 db). You really only need limited coverage with one of these. You can buy enough MLV to do the areas you listed for ~$100 shipped. Keep it in place with velcro after laying down a layer of foam (doors in 3rd gens can just use the plastic and factory stuff as those two will stop the MLV from resonating by itself).

For the rear wall the CLD tiles and foam can just go over the middle section (between central bar) with MLV also over that section. It will appear flush with bar after install.

You really can't get any better than that and if you price out products right it will run you 150-200 and sound way better than wasting your time on so called sound deadeners (if you look on some of those links people provided the product itself calls itself vibration dampening material).

 

One more time:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...ns/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing-69.html

Pics got photobucketitis, but read the very last post if nothing else

 

I've got an OEM+ system coming in next week and have the

Noico 50 mil 21.5 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Noico 50mil for the inside panel of the doors. I also was given

Noico Green 340 mil 9.5 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material (1/3'' Thick Sound Deadener) (300 mil x 9.5 sqft)

Noico WP 300mil foam. Should I also use the foam? Would it go behind the speakers on the outside panel?

 

Check out noico videos on YouTube, I saw some good how to's. I think you put the 50 mil down, and then the foam on top, it should have an adhesive backing. That combo would probably work well for the wall behind your back seats, where most of the road noise comes from.

 

i used second skin but theres https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles™ also

 

Yes put the 50 mil on the inside of the exterior door skin (have to access through cutouts) and cover with foam, When you get to behind the speaker, don't put too much of the foam in that area, aim for an 8X8 inch square. Cover the speaker cutout area on the inside with the 50 mil as well. Put some of the 50 mil on that side of the door as well, aim for around 25 percent coverage and then if you have enough, cover the whole shebang with foam (you can take out or leave the vapor barrier, I left mine in).

 

Thanks RedEmpire

Is this what you mean?

 

For the most part, closed cell foam is used as a decoupler and thermal insulator. Putting it inside the door cavity won't do much for you. For a full treatment here, you'd wanna use mass loaded vinyl on the entire door panel with the foam over it as a decoupling device. It will also provide thermal insulation. What it won't do is block a lot of noise. It will block some high frequencies, but blocking noise is the job of MLV mostly. If I were gonna use the foam without MLV I'd put it between the door card and inner door skin to help eliminate rattles and get the thermal benefit. The idea here is 100% coverage. And although CCF is compressible, that might be a bit thick for doors. Folks typically use 1/8". I used 1/16", but covered both sides of MLV with that.

Acoustic foam in the doors is another discussion entirely, but it doesn't seem like that's what we're talking about here. This stuff is closed cell anyway so should be more or less inert other than occupying airspace.