So Much for Harbor Freight Tie Rod Separators...

Yesterday I began the process of replacing the passenger side axle assembly on my 1998 Limited. To get the axle out I needed a tie rod separator tool. I searched the internet and watched several videos claiming that the below tool worked fine on their 1st Gen Tacomas, so I bought one at Harbor Freight for $23.07. Here is what I bought and used:

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When I got home I had trouble fitting it into the joint. Couldn't get the tool's bolt centered above the tie rod bolt. I should have quit at that point but I didn't. Not only did the tool do its job, the tool's bolt broke off a bit off the top of the tie rod's bolt and boogered that bolt's top 2 or 3 threads, all the way down to the top of the cotter pin hole. So much for the cheap tool and I'm taking it back when the job is done.

Here are some photos:

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I measured the inner diameter of the tool and it is 0.50", and the outer diameter of the tie rod bolt where the tool should go is 0.78". My bad, and now I'll hafta pay...

I tried using several small files to clean up the threads but so far have not had any luck, and so I ordered a replacement outer tie rod ($52 from Mid-Atlantic). Then I returned to the job and tried to loosen the outer tie rod nut. It so happens that whoever did the last alignment started to round off the inner tie rod wrenching surfaces, and the lock nut on the outer tie rod is on really tight. I used a 10" Crescent wrench and a 14" pipe wrench and all my 73-year-old strength (and it ain't much dontcha know). The nut wouldn't budge. Right now I've put some liquid wrench on the threads and will repeat over the next day or so.

At this point my options are (1) buy a 2nd pipe wrench (an 18" one) and try again; (2) continue working on filing down the butched-up threads; (3) saw off the tie rod if I can, and use a socket (if I have one) on the lock nut and a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod's wrenching surface; (4) remove the inner tie rod, take it to the bench and try to get the lock nut off; and (5) set off a bomb underneath the truck.

So my question is, how hard is it to remove the passenger inner and outer tie rods as an assembly and without removing the steering rack???

 

Use a torch to heat the sleve those nuts always cease to the threads get it red hot then crank on it

 

Unless I read wrong long week 36 plus hours in 3 days

You used the tool wrong I have a little better one but the same style

Popped quite a few tie rod ends off no problems

 

not bagging on you... next time loosen the nut until their is a cavity that will hold the seperator bolt in place and apply pressure then. This should prevent what happened to you and stop the ball joint/steering arm from falling. If you have never worked on a particluar type of vehicle before you are not 100% sure that the assembly is under load. If you remove the nut and break the joint free while under load bad things can happen.

 

But some MAPP gas if you don’t have any. Splurge and get the trigger start also. There are so many other things you will use the MAPP gas for so it will be worth buying. MAPP gas burns hotter than propane and will make the job of heating much quicker.

 

Next time (if there is one) I'll use the correct tool for the job. Problem is, I can only find one as part of a set. If anybody knows where I can get this tool, maybe he could let me know??

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