Shortest lift possible on 33’s

Lift (at least suspension lift) has no affect on the size tires you can run. If you're going to rub with no lift, you're going to rub in exactly the same spot with a 3" lift (or 2" or 4"). Likewise, if you rub with a lift, you'll rub in exactly the same spots (and no more than with the lift) if you remove your lift completely.

That's because the lift only affects where the truck sits in it's suspension travel at rest. The suspension still travels through the same range of motion when you fully extend the shocks (bottom out the control arms) or fully compress them (to the LCA bump stops).

It's covered pretty well in this post: What size tires fit my lifted Tacoma?

...and by this diagram that shows exactly what I'm talking about above. Note that something like a body lift can actually help clearance larger tires, and a lot of guys who go to 35's like @drr do a bit of body lift so that the clearancing they have to do for their suspension lift is a bit less.

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See below

This guy gets it.

This guy gets it too

 

Alright... You guys go ahead and run 33 inch tires with no lift and go ahead and drive straight every where you go.

You can not have a (usable) 1st gen Tacoma with 33 inch tires and no lift. You can split hairs for the purpose of arguement. But the OP asked how to get his truck lower. With 33s. With no rub.

I assume, he's talking no rub through his suspension cycle and being able to steer... and actually having some sort of bump travel.

 

Maybe we're focused on different points of our various posts. (?)

No one is saying that you can run 33's and not do any work. All we're saying is that the work is the same regardless of lift (and it's not that "you [have to] cut A LOT out.")

The work necessary for 33's is the pinch weld mod and (likely) a bit of hammering of the pinch weld area. But you certainly don't need to do much more than that...at least for most wheels, with reasonable backspacing. And by reasonable, I mean 3.5-4.5" with 10.5" wide tires (255/85 R16 in my case).

34" and 35" tires are where you have to start cutting. And/or long travel or ridiculously low backspacing.

 

Wasnt there a guy who ran 35s and no lift? Maybe he had billies. It was a red truck from canada. I think @Spoonman wheeled with him. You gotta cut the shit outta your rig to do so. It wo t be easy, but anything is possible

 

I was wrong. He had a lift https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mrbeggins-04-tacoma-build.269822/

 

This thread reminds me of a different decision I had on a another forum. I think it went something like this, "Tires stop your car, not brakes"?

 

I did no lift 35s

my boy tanner in the red access cab did the same

 

We probably are focused on different points. Because I'm focused on the original point of the thread. Which is this guy asking about how much he can lower his truck without making it unusable.

He's also stated that he's running stock wheels with 1.25 Spidertrax, 285 75 R16, and he has mentioned he is saving for a wedding so the assumption is he doesn't have cash to spend on different wheels, or anything else that is costly, that will help him clear this up.

Then we get off on this tangent that you can run 33s with no lift (which may be possible with an angle grinder and sawzall)... and how 255s may work (he doesn't have money to go buy a new set of tires).

I totally understand the points that have been made about suspension cycles and travel and the fact that a lift only puts the tire down farther, but you still have to account for the travel to the bump (full stuff). But that is completely ignoring the fact that there are always compromises to be made. Rub at full stuff, or even partial stuff, is one of those compromises. A lift allows you to do a vast amount of daily driving without rubbing, because your tire is farther away from it's surroundings. And daily driving rarely, if ever, "stuffs" the wheel. But driving a non-lifted Tacoma, with no lift... with 33s... you'd basically be driving around, all the time, at near full stuff. The compromise here is, with lift, how much "stuff" do you need to have before rub. For some people that answer is... I'll cut, move, hammer, pound, what ever is needed to make it not rub.

But you are not going to have a usable Tacoma with 33s without a lift and/or making significant modifications.

To get 33s to not rub the rear well you have to pinch weld mod AND move the tires forward. To move the tires far enough forward you have to replace the bumper or cut a bunch of the stock bumper (valance) off. Also, to move the wheels that far forward, you're looking at new UCAs to get your alignment numbers correct. I'd also reccomend taller bump stops. (I added about an inch to my rear LCA bumpstops to keep my tire lower in the well at full stuff)... and also, you need to look at backspace with 10.5 tires. I'd imagine the OP is running 1.25 spidertrax because with stock wheels, his tires would be rubbing the spindle without them.

So... we can keep talking suspension theory... or we can go ahead and try and answer the original question. Or we can go ahead and tell OP to take all the preload off his coilovers and send the bitch because he should be good without a lift.

 

Ah that's right! I knew onw of you had done. But only you can pull some shit like that. Low and wide!!!

 

There's a dude here that was running 35's on ZERO lift. = and

You don't "need" a lift to fit bigger tires. In fact, most lifts don't even prevent a tire from rubbing anyway, all they do is change where the tires sit at ride height. When the suspension compresses it will still rub on less you either tub the fenders or change the suspension geometry, i.e. new control arms, or different offset wheels, or all of the above.

 

there may be others, but I had 35s no lift



to be fair I did have bulletin 5100 front shocks set to the 3rd notch to compensate for the bumper and winch.

 

how did you mount those ditch lights on your truck bed?

 

Yeah, you can tell you're still pretty close to stock height tho. Your LCAs are still pretty flat.

You have a build thread? Me likey.

 

He does. Look in the build forum......its alot beefier now

 

You're in the first gen section, bro...

1st gens don't need a cab mount chop.

 

That's right, you get out.

 

I'm going to save this post for every time someone posts about wanting to sell their 1st gen and buy a 2nd/3rd gen.

 

Agree completely. They are adding way too many driver assist features and other shit nowadays. Wont catch me driving one, i am a big fan of the minimalist bit as well. Although i am a sucker for power windows, locks, ac, and a manual trans. Thats all i need to be happy

 

Yep. I had an '86 Turbo 4Runner back in college. That thing was a blast. She finally blew after 300=k miles. My wife called her Christine because she blew the block and the most inopportune time (she needed a ride to a job interview). Sold it (with "encouragement" from the wife) and got a dirtbike with the cash, and was out of the 4x4 gig for a few years (had a 5 lug). Then in 2005 got my current 2004 doublecab.

"from my cold dead hands" comes to mind....