Service Recommendations at 180,000 Miles

Just hit 180,000 miles in my 2013 Prerunner. I do full synthetic oil every 10,000 miles. Grease ball joints every oil change. Changed spark plugs at 85,000 and again at 180,000 miles. Front left suspension (from Headstrong: SPC UCAs, Bilstein 5100 shocks, OME coils) started groaning last week. I took my truck to Toyota for an inspection and was surprised by their report. They suggested the following:

Suspension:

• Replace front shocks: $706
• Replace rear shocks: $405
• Replace lower control arms: $1,254
• Replace rack & pinion: $1,617
• 4-wheel alignment: $130 (last completed 2/1/22)

Belts, battery, filters & fluids:

• Replace drive belt: $248
• Flush & refill coolant: $160
• Flush & refill brake fluid: $118
• Flush & refill transmission fluid: $298
• Replace rear dif fluid: $169
• Fuel injector & MFI cleaning service: $268
• A/C Evap cleaning service: $100
• Replace battery: $190 (last replaced with Die Hard in 2019)
• Replace cabin air filter $39 (I'll replace this weekend)
• Replace engine air filter $105 (Volant dry filter ordered. I'll replace it this weekend)

Total: $5,700+/-

The service center also said I needed new ball joints because the zerks were damaged but they didn't list this on the repair list. I spoke to a tech at SPC, and he disagreed with their suggestion. He said to look at the stock LCAs as the culprit. I do have 140,000 miles on these Bilstein 5100s and OME coils. What is the lifespan of these components?

I'm a bit surprised. I'm not doing serious off-roading beyond WMA camping, logging roads, and fording creeks. I pull an old 15' fiberglass boat to the lake 10 times a year. Have I hit some railroad tracks a bit too fast? Probably. Are local roads awful? Absolutely. I thought that, up to this point, I'd stayed on top of general maintenance. I've never had a parts failure with this truck and taken it in for routine services. Then again, I've never had a vehicle last this long.
I met another Taco guy while camping a few months back with 415,000 miles on his truck!

I'm due up for a big trek in April and was planning to do fluids, filters, belt, and ball joints/bushings if needed. The truck is paid off so I don't mind spending some $ to go another 180,000 miles. Still, I'd appreciate your input on these services.

TIA!

Pic for attention:

 

If I were in your position, I'd shop around and have other shops look at your rig. The stealerships charge crazy amounts for very simple services.

 

And I’m sure they go by factory maintenance books/schedule as well.

 

I recently purchased a high mileage (241k) 2015 with dealership service records. Similar maintenance was completed on mine at 212k... transmission flush, power steering fluid, brake fluid, fuel system, front and rear diff service, battery replacement, spark plugs, air filters. Brakes were done at 176k.

Have since replaced u-joints (230k) and more recently (240k) replaced front shocks w/ alignment. Seems the items on your list are typical recommendations for the mileage.

 

I would definitely get a second opinion. Needing all that is very surprising.

 

I would guess the dealership is scamming you. I’ve had horrible experiences with my local Toyota dealership.

Like the others have said, I would take it to an independent mechanic that is trustworthy.

Don’t tell the second shop anything about what Toyota claims needs repair. I would bet you they will give you a list half the size of the dealership’s list of repairs. I actually have a reputable shop near me that has a special service deal for people that have been quoted outrageous amounts from dealerships.

You bring you car into their shop and tell the manager what the dealership quoted you and what repairs the dealership claims need to be done. He has one of his mechanics do a full inspection without telling the mechanic what the dealership said. He said 99.9% of the time, the mechanic finds that the dealership is lying to the customer and listing things that don’t need repair at all. Happened to my elderly mom just a few weeks ago (not at a Toyota dealership). They told her she had an oil leak in her engine and it was causing oil to leak all over the engine. Quoted her over $1,000 to fix it. I took the car to the mechanic shop I mentioned and they were like…”no, one of their techs just spilled oil on the engine cover while they were changing the oil”.

It’s unfortunate dealerships have become this way; I didn’t even finish getting my free oil changes from my Toyota dealership because they were untrustworthy and I caught them not doing work they claimed they had done.

 

Just change the fluids you haven’t changed and fix stuff when you have symptoms of parts going out. That’s ridiculous to do all that.

 

Also, if you do take it to a second shop for an opinion, I’d be extremely curious what they say. It would be awesome if you post their recommended repairs on this thread as well as a comparison.

 

the picture shows a garage and driveway

do it yourself

oil change is probably better to do every 5k if you care about the truck and engine. Oil is cheaper than an engine.

even 10k interval is too high for passenger cars getting lighter use, higher quality oil, and sometimes bigger oil capacity.
1GR-FE V6 4.0L 5.5 quart capacity is really not a lot. There are engines that take 7-10qt.

 

A lot of people confuse "inspect" with "replace". My 2007 has 232,000 miles on it and I've not done much of that. I get new plugs every 100,000 miles. I replaced the oil in the diff's and transfer case at 170,000. Air and cabin fliter are replaced when they are dirty. I put new shocks on it at 125,000 and they are still good. The factory shocks/struts failed at 125,000 and started ruining tires. I may replace them in another year but only if they start showing signs of wear. About once a year I take my truck to a trusted mechanic who inspects EVERYTHING and replaces what NEEDS to be replaced.

I replace the serpentine belt when it starts showing cracks. I'm on my 3rd. Steering and suspension are still fine. I did have a U-Joint and the alternator fail at around 180,000 miles. I put battery #3 in it 3 years ago.

I've forgotten how many times I've done front brakes, but the rears have only been done once. I still have factory drums and rotors. Will have to get new rotors next time.

I still have the factory hoses and coolant. They still work fine. I have no plans to replace transmission fluid until I rebuild the transmission. And I plan on that being another 200,000 miles down the road.

I had the diff and transfer case oil changed at 170,000 just before a road trip to the Grand Canyon from GA. I'd leave tomorrow for the same trip and would trust the Tacoma to get there and back. But I have newer, more comfortable, more fuel-efficient options today. But I have no doubts the Tacoma would get there and back.

 

Trans service is probably supposed to be done as often as every 40k to keep a conventional 5AT running good. ATF is cheaper than a trans.

Used car inspections are 1-2hr labor. Shop labor is $100-200+/hr.

Use that money to start buying parts.
You don’t need to drive to a facility to pay another person to look at your brake fluid. You can rely on your memory if it has been changed in 1-2yr or pop the hood at home and look at it yourself.

or keep a log if you don’t want to rely on remembering and looking at things.

the price quoted to replace the stock crappy rack with another stock crappy rack is about what it would cost to upgrade to a beefier one.

 

If you are at all handy you can do most of it for about 10% of what they want - if indeed you really need it - for example Replace drive belt: $248- DIY $27.72
-

$24 Bando USA 7PK2285 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAXIK2/?coliid=I3OX09MP6TK97E&colid=3FZGI55YANKYH

 

Just a drive belt at 180k is not wise. If they haven’t been done already pulleys should be replaced, possibly tensioner. I have the parts just need to install them.

 

I'm sure all that's a good idea - I was just giving an example of one they suggested and there charge vs DYI - It should probably all be done if it was never done - I would also do OCI at 5K not 10K - an extra oil change once in awhile is a fraction of a motor even if you pay for it - DYI is better because you know it's done correctly - I've read stories about quick lubes not putting things back together correctly and oil leaking or some not even putting oil in at all - rare but scary. I'd think twice about all that Suspension stuff - I wouldn't do unless you are have a problem and get at least a second and maybe a third opinion - that stuff is expensive and I bet you don't even need it.

 

my LCA’s barely made it to 150k
Aftermarket ones are about $130 ea
OEM about $300/ea

On a regular car most of these parts are worn out by 100k

 

Thanks, all! I do have a trusty mechanic who has done my work since I was in college. He's highly touted around town for his honesty. The catch is he closes at 5 pm, so It's difficult to get to his shop unless I take time off work. I'll likely have to slide my key under his shop door with a list of things I need estimates & service on, then ride my motorcycle to work (brrrr). Based on your comments, is the fact that I got 180,000 miles out of my LCAs a remarkable lifespan? What is the typical life of stock LCAs, and what part tends to fail on these? I hope I'm not driving in Deathtrap of Death each day. Likewise for my Bilstein 5100s. what's the typical lifespan before needing replacement? Same for the OME 884 coils.

 

I still have original LCAs on one side. 210K

 

IMO, a lot of that work can be done yourself with youtube! will save you a couple grand for sure.

 

Yeah, time is the key. Between work, wife & kids, not much time to focus on fun stuff right now. I have some time carved out this weekend to do filters, clean my MAF sensor, and find out which bushings are squeaking.

 

This line was the one that cracked me up

• Replace rear dif fluid: $169