Secondary bypass questions

These might sound like rookie questions, but I’m just getting into the LT game. Besides increased dampening, and tune ability....what are any other benefits of a secondary bypass front shock. I have 3.5 TC racekit that will be getting installed when I button up my sua kit. I’m guessing it would be a 10” shock right? I cant find much on length. 2 or 3 tube? Piggy or remote? I have Fox 8” dsc for the front. Any issues pairing up a bypass with that coil over? This truck is a general purpose vehicle. Anything from moderate crawling (within ifs capabilities) to higher speed blasts on fire roads, and all around exploration on Arizona type terrain. I was just going to install a single shock, and call it good. I will call TC Monday, but its Friday and these questions are running through my head.

 

I think you listed the main benefits, only other is it looks badass.
If you are using a 8" coilover, you will probably want a 8" secondary, otherwise you will not get into the last stage.
2 tube is good, 3 just gives you more adjustment/zones.
Remote resivour will give you the most room, dont want the wheel touching anything while you are turned/articulating.
The only issue is you will need to tune both shocks. The coil carrier needs to be very light to no valving, and the bypass is very firm. You open up the tubes to keep your teeth in your head. You want it firm so the last stage acts as a bump stop, and open it up so you can actually drive the vehicle over normal and garbage roads a like.
Hope this helps.

 

Honestly I think you should just start with the single shock. It will still be a great ride, especially once you dial in those knobs.
Once you get an idea of what the truck is capable of, and what you really need, then move up to bypasses. Save that extra money for a welder.

 

I’ve wondered too. I’ve also thought about just another 2.5 smooth tube/remote resi just to help the main coil over. Then going bypass only in the rear

 

I've seen another pretty nasty Taco with secondary smoothies. It would help shock fade on long trips since you divide the work between 2 shocks. The drawback is you still dont get the firmer bump zones that the bypass has. I think if you are going to take the time and money to add a second shock up front, it should be a bypass type. Otherwise the single coilover is still a blast, especially one wish Dsc adjusters.

 

Makes sense with 8” secondary to match 8” coil over. Only reason why I thought people were using 10” were photos I found where the secondary looked longer. That, and I didn’t see an 8” on Accutune website. Now that I looked at Foxs website I see they list an 8”. So if I did install a secondary I would have to send my coilovers back to Accutune for a revalve.

 

Yeah I think I will stick to a single for now. I was just thinking if I’m in there doing the work now would be the best time. Already have a Miller 252, but a tubing bender would be nice.

 

That being said, is the ANY way to increase performance with only a coil over up front? Re valve? Anything else?

 

You dont need to send them back, the work is pretty easy to do your self, especially if it's just a revalve and not a full rebuild. I'm actually revalving some 16" fox double bypasses right now.
The worst part is knowing and having what you need before you start. Some times you get used shocks with unknown valving (like these I got), so you have to open them up, measure the shims, look at the chart and figure out which way you want to go, then order the parts. Kartec is awesome and I highly recommend them. Also be sure to get aluminum soft jaws to hold the shaft, they are $40 on Kartec website.

You can make a single coilover perform awesome, its allllll in the valving. You'll want a flutter stack after the 2nd big shim, then thicker shims as they get smaller. You'll have to play with the thickness for different weight truck, when I installed a winch I blew through the travel do to the extra weight in front.

 

So re valving is the only option. I can do it myself, I was a certified Race Tech suspension tech for years. I ran the first Race Tech center here in NM also. I just don’t “want” to do it

 

I just revalved this shock in the time since my last post, minus time to clean my glove and take a pic between steps. It's pretty easy Imo.

 

Yep. I even have a nitrogen tank I use for recharging and bump stops. I just don’t want to. Lazy basted.... lol

 

What bypasses will help you achieve is the tuneability that your front coilovers won’t be able to meet by spring stiffness and/or valving of the coils. I can’t remember if you have adjusters on your coils, but they can drastically fill that void with the compression ability. For a long time I only had coils up front before getting bypasses with no adjusters. My front end would dive on stuff that was 33ish mph or more. Thanks to my hombre @snowsk8air2 he was able to get my bypasses installed. Due to the added compression ability I could now tune them for whoops in the 40-50 mph range. Before I would have been bashing my skid plate at half speed.

That said some folks go LT and are fearful of really using their kit in a whoop environment. As others have stated, if you havnt had experience in the dedicated fast stuff, give it a shot with your rig and see if your truck is limiting you or if you are in your comfort level. Bypasses are what limited me for a long time.

I run three tube as most LT guys do and the more tubes, the better flow they can have which leads to a better feeling and transition through cycling along with more adjustability. If you are a buy once cry once guy like me, spend the extra and get three tube.

 

What’s dampening?

 

Has anyone run a single coil over up front but used Kings internal ByPass system? Maybe the closest you can get to a secondary bypass while only running one coil over?

 

Do they make a long travel spec coilover?

 

What’s specific about them? Wouldn’t an 8” IBP coil over work?

 

I would call up king/fox/etc and see. For instance, you need specific king long travel coils to run with an LT kit...these are not the same shocks as oem bolt in ones although they look almost identical. They very well could have them, just never looked myself.

 

Depends on the kit that you have and the ext/collapsed lengths of the shock. Some kits are built to use a "spec" shock that will have a shorter collapsed length so your shock is not the limiting factor on bump travel. With that said, you could make it work if you have the tools and ability to change the shock mounts around. A kit "spec" is mainly for those attempts at a bolt on kit, which is misunderstood if you're going with LT.

Isn't that when you drive up on a curb at the mall for your Instagram shot opportunity?

It's not a difficult process but if you're working on a coil over as opposed to a bypass/smooth body you will need to have access to a compressor that will remove the spring. It can quickly become a hassle.

 

If there isn't much preload one can just loosen the adjustable collars. I have mine cranked a little since I have the cable winch, so I just use the spring compressors from Napa. I had to grind a little off their nose so they wouldn't hit the shock body.