Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) CEL P2440 Air Switching Valve

I got CEL P2440 , diagnosed as Air Switching Valve.

Replacement for 2TR-FE is updated part number 25710-75015. Due to the thicker mounting flange the Studs must be replaced, part number 90126-08031.



Customer Support Program (ZHA POL18-01) for 2012 V6 HERE.
Thought I'd post it here for quicker reference later

 

There is a delete kit for those if your not in a state that requires them.

 

Who?...Where??...more info, please.

 

https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=7

 

Don’t waste your money. That kit is twice as much as a new valve. It made sense when people’s air pump went out and there were no remans available. You can buy a replacement now for less than $100.
There are also reports of decreased fuel economy after installing that kit.

 

Yeah I remember when the brand new price was rediculous and there wasn't any other options.

 

Wasn't it the pump that was the expensive part?

 

Yeah

 

Hey man just had my CEL come on throwing P2440, specifically SAIS valve stuck open bank 1. I'm in a 2006 2.7 L. Was this a successful fix for you? I'm not interested in trying to shell out a grand + to get this fixed by the dealership.

 

Yes, wouldn't have posted this if not

 

Did you have to take the pipe out, going to the exhaust and the exhaust shield off, to change the valve? How hard was it to change the studs? Thanks

 

It was a pretty easy job, make sure you have the right socket for the studs before you start

 

I know this was a while ago, but thanks for the excellent posts on this topic...do you recall, though, what size E-torx socket the studs needed? Also, did the pipe and exhaust shield still have to come off if you removed the valve studs?

I have a 2010 2.7L that just threw this code. I took the pump off to inspect, and it looked OK...before I put it back together, I used a hand pump to push/pull air through the rubber hose to see if there was any vacuum. I couldn't really tell, but on my next startup, the check engine light was off

I assume i'll eventually need to replace the valve, but I'm thinking of pulling it and cleaning with some carb cleaner first.

 

btw, there was NO trace of foam underneath my air pump cover (the cover held on by the torx bolt)...either it was completely sucked through the pump or it was never there to begin with . I'm the original owner.

 

No recollection, sorry it's just been too long ago.

 

Hello,
New member here and just had this same issue come up. The pump was making a loud vibration noise on start up, so I replaced it. Now there is no noise, but same code. I was wondering if it would be a bad idea to use a dremel and remove a small amount of the heat shield around the mounting bolts for the pipe running from the valve itself to the engine. Otherwise it looks like I have to completely remove the heat shield in order to get the pipe off the studs on the engine. My truck is a 2010 and the bolts on the heat shield are pretty fugly so I'm trying to avoid damaging/breaking them, and a few of them are really difficult to access with little room to get a tool in there.

Thanks

 

2005 small-engine Tacoma here. Wanted to chime in with my experience and my thanks to OP. Started with several error codes, replaced the blower (whose motor was rusted, non-working, dripping wet, and somehow coated in mud) with an $85 knockoff. New code, sensor. Figured it was actually the valve, but the sensor was $20something and two bolts, and removing the cable plug took up the most of the 10 or 15 minutes it took. No luck, still error. Okay, on to the valve.

The original valve 25710-75011 isn't available anywhere, but it wasn't crystal clear to me that the 25710-75015 is the new one. But it's true, and almost twice the price at $135 to $155. The little bag with the longer studs (90126-08031) does indeed come with 2, even though the part title implies it's singular. And the parts dealer might tell you (like they did me) that you need a new pipe as well as a new valve and new studs. Not true. This was an initial concern for me, but it turns out that even though the flange on the valve is thicker, the total width is the same, meaning the pipe can be re-used without trying to somehow bend it outward. The metal gasket was also re-used.

You do need E-torx sockets, and the new and old stud heads were two different sizes. I broke the head off the first bolt (stud) but was able to remove it with pliers - eventually. For the rest, I removed the nut first and then smacked the stud around a bit before trying to remove them. Seemed to work, though the couple on the outside, holding the pipe in place on the valve, were more rusted than the two holding the valve to the engine.

I chose not to try to remove the heat shield (which would have been necessary to access one of the pipe studs), leaving the pipe in place. Partly (mostly) because I'm lazy, but also because the two pipe interior studs and nuts were even more rusted than the stud whose head I had just broken off. So I disconnected the pipe from the valve by removing the studs and nuts on that end only. Fortunately, all 4 removed studs (2 between pipe and valve, 2 between valve and engine) were the same size, so I was able to re-use one of the valve studs (replaced by the new, longer studs), in place of the broken one.

Total time: somewhere between 1 and 2 hours. Getting sockets on all 4 studs and nuts removed, as well as finding leverage and room to torque the wrenches ranged from "a bit obnoxious" to "a huge PITA". Used a mix of 1/4 and 3/8 socket wrenches, adapter, and extensions. And pliers. As well as a bit of blood (which is optional). Oh, and the plastic wire connector to the solenoid was both stuck and fragile. So it's missing a good bit of plastic at this point, but still works. I might tape it up. Getting the new valve in was unsurprisingly much, much faster than removing the old.

One last thing: If your Tacoma is 17 years old (like mine at this point), you might want to plan on having to buy new studs and nuts. Not the new, long studs, but the older ones that you might mangle while removing. I don't have part numbers on those, but they're likely pretty cheap, assuming you can still get them. I re-used the rusted ones after cleaning up some threads, as I don't plan on having this vehicle long enough to ever worry about them again. At this point, anyway

 

How do you get the mounting studs out? I tried to use a small ratchet with a 5 mm socket. It tried unscrewing the stud but it felt like if I forced it, it would break. Is it reverse threaded?

 

IIRC requires a star socket. I don't recall having any issues, maybe luck.

 

Thanks! I don’t think I need to replace the valve. I took the top of the valve apart without removing the whole valve unit completely. Cleaned it out (chunks of old filter foam from the air pump and carbon build up.) reinstalled it all. Drove around a bit. Did some errands and no CEL. So I think I’m in the clear and valve is able to close.