Secondary Air Injection System "fix"

On coming to a stop the rpms jump when clutch is pushed in up to sometimes 1900rpm, as if it was suffocating or looking for something. toyota had nothing to say about this. Still no codes. Without a trouble code light Toyota will not diagnose the issue. Also the truck takes forever to warm up.
I have been pretty frustrated because I have had this issue ever since the truck was bought. And Corporate told me to take a hike.
@Taco Hunter

 

This is normal on a manual transmission Tacoma.

 

the air injection system ONLY runs during startup and shutdown. Its to help with catalytic converter life. It purges the exhaust fuels out of the exhaust on shutdown, and pushes clean air in during startup so they dont get clogged by moisture / over rich startup mixture.

 

There is an informational "how to bypass" thread on a Tundra forum (I don't have the link with me.)

It is not super easy, but not too difficult either.

I am planning to bypass and remove mine - but for educational purposes only, of course.

 

I have been meaning to take mine apart and put some sort of wire mesh under the foam to better support the foam so it doesnt decide to up and fall into the pump.

 

I am wondering how that foam could break down, ever

as by now, materials science can easily produce open cell foam completely resistant to vapors, oils, heat, moisture,
organic hydrocarbons (benzene and the like)


I just (hey it could happen) don't buy that toyota would use a foam in there that got manky and crumbly over time
but I also don't know enough about 'secondary air injection pumps' to say anything for sure

the tundra problems were about how the intake for the secondary air injection was letting water in

 

From what i have seen in pictures of the inside of the air injection pump it looks like the foam just isnt supported well. So the stress of being sucked on rather hard over time could physically degrade the foam itself. There is a reason why almost all foam air filter elements have a metal mesh backing on them.

I honestly dont know why the just didnt run a pipe off the stock engine air intake after the filter to the inlet of the air injection pump. No need for the extra filter element in the air injection pump. No problems with water intrusion, and some of the cleanest air you could possibly grab any where on the truck.

Too bad there are no big nipples between the airfilter and throttle body to do so.










hehe i said sucked hard and big nipples.

 

I don't want to say how good quality the foam truly is but I will say that mine was in decent shape. Certainly was not winning any awards for filtering or stopping medium size particles but was still in one solid piece. For me it's still a design flaw and unneeded risk. Where I live and how I use my truck my new setup fixes that and now the only thing that can go wrong is the electric motor dies, sensor dies or valve gets sticky. Either way the filter, stock or not, doesn't prevent or cause any of those problems.

I agree that it's probably because of stress on the filter over time and the climate you live in could expedite the deterioration.

My guesses:
It'd require an extra hose ~ medium length = Cost
Forces the small tiny electric motor with a plastic fan to compete against the motor
Could mess with vacuum to TB?
Becomes a factor for people who put in aftermarket intakes (Yes sounds silly but think about how many people install them)

Or do what they did and save money.. Because majority of owners will never even know it's there or the risk

 

The only thing i could see other than costs as to why they didnt want to grab air from there is during the shutdown operation. where they are trying to purge the exhaust of exhaust gases, but if you were pulling from that area you have possible fuel vapors from the intake being sucked in.

back to the drawing board.

 

I too have a manual but I don't have this issue. Doubtful that your AIS is causing that too. When you put your clutch in does it shoot up quickly and falls back down at a normal rate or does it hover? Does it do this more at certain speeds or in certain gears?

You said it takes forever to warm up. What is the temperature where you live when it takes so long? How long is "forever"? Does it turn over a few times before starting or idle rough? Thing is with no codes or being there in person to experience your issue it's almost guesswork currently. I know if you ask around here long enough someone will be able to find your issue. Just make sure to try to answer everyones questions the best you can and quickly

 

this

far easier to route out, than reprogram the entire ecu and redesign intake just
for a air injection pump that runs maybe 4 minutes a day

 

I'm confused as to why you quoted me only on that?

I think you misunderstood what nd4spdbh and I were discussing. He mentioned the idea of why they didn't run a line connecting the intake port of the AIS to some spot on the intake for your engine and I responded with a few ideas of maybe why it wouldn't work too well.

Even then with his idea you wouldn't need to reprogram the ecu to make it work nor redesign the intake, but merely a connector and hose.

 

oh yes you would need a ton of work

when that injection pump runs it'll be a huge vacuum leak

pump itself would not be able to be a simple vane anymore, it would need
to be powerful enough to overcome intake vacuum

intake will need work to compensate for the loss of air

all this while the engine is cold starting. good luck with that scenario and making it start reliably

 

@127.0.0.1 Oh I see what you're saying. Sorry I misread/took what you said wrong. We are in complete agreement then Only difference was I was thinking they'd hook the line into one of the resonators because it may be capable of drawing the air from there(In my mind the air in there is considerably more static than the main tube). In no way would it do it well... But we can't assume they would do anything more than the bare minimal with this system anyhow. If it wasn't capable at all then ya it'd definitely require huge overall. Thanks for your interest and contribution to this post too

 

So on BMW's, some people have been able to write out their secondary air system by re-flashing to euro spec programs/builds for equivalent vehicles that weren't sold with the pumps. While the euro tune is not possible for us, maybe a re-flash specific for 2011 and older could accomplish writing out the air pump for us V6 users.

Next question would be for someone familiar with Toyota software to determine if that's even possible.

 

1:it hovers, 2: always in neutral coming to a stop.

3: I live in so cal. so 55-100 in peak season.
4: Starts right up.
Im confused as you. @Taco Hunter

 

Is all the parts on your truck still stock or have you already gone about replacing things? Do you abuse your truck or take better care of it than your own manhood?

Do you know what an idle air control is? That's what I would check first to see if it's operating correctly. Unfortunately I can't guide you on that process right now but I can look into it later tonight or tomorrow. Best bet is find someone local who does and have any equipment/tools needed. Your IAC controls your rpm's. If it doesn't have a sensor or maintenance check then that may be why you aren't seeing any codes being thrown.

 

Still all stock. No abuse, regular mant. Unfortunately I do not know what the IAC is or where it is. Im not incompetent so maybe I can find out where it is or maybe even youtube, but at least its a start. If you have any further help it will be much appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

Where im saying to pull air from wouldnt effect anything in anyway. We are talking the low pressure (vacuum) side of the throttle body.... the space between the air filter and throttle body. You could easily add a nipple to the plastic housing and run a hose from there to the inlet of the air pump. No ecu changes would be necessary, the FPR wouldn't be affected at all by any amount that would mater, and the air pump would easily be able to overcome the SMALL vacuum present in that area during startup.

The problem with pulling from the engine air intake is fuel vapors on shutdown, the residual vapors in the intake tract could be pulled out and pushed down into the exhaust... this is not what toyota is trying to acomplish as the shutdown procedure is to purge the exhaust completely of any exhaust fumes and get clean air into the system.

The people that were having issues on the tundra's the air pumps were BURRIED DEEP in the valley of the V of the v8, where moisture and nasty stuffs collect. Im not too terribly worried about my air pump. That stated i am going to reinforce the foam so it cant degrade and drop down into the vanes in large pieces.

 

That is what Toyoya said. I had an 05 that was manual and it did not do this. A few members on here that i have been wheeling with have stick as well. There'sdo not as well.