second gen tensioner replace after only 85k or just belt.

Getting ready to change my serpentine belt (unknown if ever changed) truck is a 4.0 with 85k miles. Should i really change the tensioner with the belt? Or even go as far as the entire kit, which includes belt, tensioner and both idlers...?
Any help would be great ...thanks

 

No, I would not change the tensioner.
Not unless it feels weak. It’s a PITA to change. You need to unbolt the AC and AC bracket. And I think the Alternator needs to be moved too.

I changed my belt at 111k miles.

You can spin the idlers and see if they feel good. Or just replace them if you like.

I’m at 157k now. Still on OE tensioner and idlers.

 

I kind of figured the stock tensioner was going to last longer than this mileage wise, but the truck is 10 years old and under spring tension for that long. I think im going to get the belt and check the idlers for free movement like you said thanks tnshooter

 

Yes i understand that pretty well in this case though i dont know how old the belt is. Could be the factory belt. I would feel better if it was new.

 

I take the Lower skid plate off, let tension off the belt, and jam a small Allen wrench in the “keeper” hole. I’ll see if I can find a picture. It makes life easier.

Then fish the belt around the fan. It’s not hard, you can do it

 

When the hole on the bottom lines up with the slot, stick a something in the hole and it will stay back for you.

 

I changed my belt at 90k … left everything else alone. Very important to check your belt

 

Make sure you use a genuine Toyota branded belt. It’s worth the higher price IMHO

 

When you lock out the tensioner to check idlers/pulleys is when you will note whether the spring in the tensioner is still good.
Locking my old one out, at 190k miles, felt notchy, and when releasing it wasn't snappy, so out she went.
Rockauto has Aisin tensioners for ~80 bucks whole assembly.

 

Thanks for the tips, i did buy my belt from rock auto. I always get stuff from them never had an issue. When removing skidplate is there anything else in the way of the belt removal/ installation.?
Also would the black coating rubbing off the pulley groves indicate the belt has been slipping?

 

Nothing else to remove, just the skid plate.

No, paint missing doesn’t mean it was slipping.

 

I’m at 101k miles and about to change my belt on my 2010. Never been changed and doesn’t sound bad or anything. Just preventive

 

You have 3 idlers and 1 tensioner pulley. A good indication if the tensioner spring is going is that at full throttle the belt slips and you will smell burning rubber. Or at idle the tensioner is jerking around (spring weak). With the belt off spin the pulleys and listen for rough bearings and feel if any lateral movement in the pulleys. Or if the pulleys are all rusted and pitted time to replace. Tensioner pulley bolt is reverse thread.

 

I did get my belt today ,

$24 continental 4070834 7-rib, 83.4" multi-v belt

continental 4070834 very nice thick premium belt. Still waiting on some other a/c parts to get here another location, compressor relay is one of them.

 

I changed mine not too long ago. Very simple. This vid is good to watch too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V67u-wf6iY0&ab_channel=RonWilliams

i went with a dayco belt from advanced auto, should be fine.

 

If you are talking about the 2.7 then yes its dirt simple.
4.0 is a bit more involved.

 

I watched the video today great bit of need to know stuff there.
Now i do have a question that was not covered in the video.
If any of the idlers are bad where do you purchase them?
Dealer item or auto parts stores?

 

Only way to know is take the belt off and spin the idlers. You can probably just get a quality one from the parts store, or the dealership if you want oem.

 

I would rather not pay dealer prices if they can be purchased from the aps. Yes i know from the video how to check them.

 

Just go with a quality brand if you need a replacement. It'll be fine. These aren't all that special of a vehicle that requires everything to be OEM.