Seat Jackers for 2024 Tacoma???

Really like the seat jackers in my 2022 Pro. Loved the seating position. Any idea if they will fit on a 2024 Tacoma?

 

The 24s have a taller seating position, elimination the need for seat jackers.

 

It depends, I have the manual seats and the ass end is too low compared to the front. I have bad circulation in my legs and the front was cutting off circulation near my knees. I put 1.5" spacers on the back and problem solved. Also, my 4'12" wife found it didn't go high enough, now it can go too high.

 

Have you sat in a 2024 yet? The seating position has changed significantly.

 

Yes. I have a 24 Pro. I really miss the position I sat in my 22 Pro with seat jackers installed. Cannot get the front of the seat higher than the rear of the seat on the 24….just like the 22.

 

Had seat jackers in my 2nd gen………(2010), electric seat in my 3rd gen (2021)……….and now back to a manual seat in my 2024………

I think seat jackers are coming back into my 4th gen……..it’s about the seat bottom tilt……

shame on you Toyota………for the cost of the truck……electric seats should be standard.

 

I just picked up a TRD Sport with manual seats and I think the angle of the seat is terrible. I agree that the ass-end is way too low! I will be making spacers to fix this. Does anyone know the thread size of the bolts?

Want-a-Taco - Are you still happy with the 1.5" spacers? That seems like a lot! Did you use a 2x4? I was thinking of lifting it an inch and then adjusting from there...

 

I picked up 2 of these

$24 Anxingo Driver or Passenger Front Seat Lift Kit Recline Spacer,1/2"-1.5" Recline Kit Lift

kit on Amazon (driver and passenger).


I tried only the thicker block first about 1", it was an improvement. I then tried with both the thin and thick for the full 1.5" and it was better. Wife and I are both very pleased. She's 4' 12", so she appreciates the extra height too.

 

PERFECT!! Thanks for sharing! I was planning to cobble up a MacGyver (Mickey Mouse?) fix for this, but I like the kit with the aluminum blocks...

 

Back to the hombrew solution, I pulled a bolt and they are definitely 10M, but not sure of the pitch. Anyone know if these are 1.25 or 1.5?? They look like fine threads, but I need to educate myself on metric threads...

I plan to run out and get some longer bolts. I guess I can bring this one and match it up.

 

Not sure this is helpful but the bolts holding the rear seat are 1.25. I would imagine the fronts would be the same.

 

I bet you are correct. I was surprised that none of the seat jacker products I looked at listed the actual bolt sizes!

Also, I see 8.8 on many of the metric bolts in my hardware bins, and I assume that is hardness. Should I be looking for a certain grade of bolt? Or is the nut ripping out of the sheet metal the more likely failure point? I guess the seat belts will keep me in place in the event of the worst-case scenario. Oh, and I am sure the online kits use the cheapest hardware possible...

 

I would wait for someone more knowledgeable than me to reply but I believe the bolts have markings on the head to signify what grade of bolt it is. I would replace it with the same bolt grade that is currently holding the seat in. I agree that the online kits probably use the cheapest crap bolts than can find and would not use whatever they provide.

 

The seat jackers I used for my 2nd gen, were very popular , and made by a retired guy in FL……used aviation grade material and bolts
Unfortunately I lost his info as I didn’t need to make the mod in my 3rd gen with the electric seat……
Maybe a former 3rd gen owner who did the mod can post info…..

 

Thanks for the replies. And I am definitely over thinking. I am not attached to the seat in any way, so there should not be a requirement for upgraded hardware. The seats are not going anywhere in a crash, and it is the belts, not the seat that hold the driver in place.

Looks like I should be able to knock this out with a purchase of 4 bolts and scrap material in the shop for the spacers. For a grand total of about $20. I am only lifting the backs of the seat, so I might as well do the passenger seat too.

I see that the previous generations needed a lift at the front of the seat, so I think Toyota may have overcompensated in the new design. I would not think that the power seas would have this issue. And probably not even an issue for many - just a personal preference thing for me...

 

The seat retains your body's relative position to the belts.
I wouldn't want my seat going anywhere in a rollover.

Personally, I think it crazy to mess with this hardware that has gone through regimented crash testing. But I am very risk averse.

 

I agree, but in a rollover, the seat is not holding you in position; the belt is. But I am risk averse too and like to do things right.

If the factory bolts were marked, I could replace like for like with regard to the grade/hardness. I will be putting in a longer bolt to accommodate spacers, and I probably need to do some more research on hardness grades of metric bolts. I am guessing that 8.8 is around the equivalent of grade 5. I might search Grainger or a specialty hardware place for the higher-grade bolts - once I decide on the height of the spacers.

 

6 weeks in with my '24 SR5, and I gotta do something about the manual seat. I had a 1st gen taco, then a 1st gen tundra, both seats were good for my 6'1" frame. With the seat height adjusted medium low, my knees are knocking this steering wheel now. (Which btw, the steering wheel doesn't tilt up enough like the older models.) Who thought crouching, driving a truck was a good idea lol? So, the solution is 1.5" risers/spacers on the 2 rear seat mounting bolts?

 

It definitely took me a long while to get a good driving position dialed in (coming from a tundra). It would be awesome if the steering wheel was able to adjust an inch or 2 higher. I've settled on the seat jacked up 2/3 of the way and not all the way back. As you raise the seat the rear lifts more than the front, so I may end up shimming up the front to get it perfect for me. All of this is so subjective and individual though so YMMV.

 

Why would the range of adjustment or seat (bottom) angle be any different on the power seats? Method of adjustment seems beside the point, no?