SCS/OMF Beadlock Tire Swap [PIC HEAVY]

This thread is mostly about what it is involved in a tire swap with SCS/OMF beadlocks. Since anyone that sees this is going to have a variety of questions about beadlocks I'm going to copy and paste a post I made about them in this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/teamstealth-gallery.419671/page-23

Hopefully anyone reading this will have some of their questions already answered so they don't have to post them up.

I'm going to be throwing on MTRs (Yes Jason, if you're reading this, I remember very well you ice skating way too close to me)



Here are the instructions OMF provides, I don't know how legible this is going to be so there will there will be a PDF attached as well for those that are interested.



Now that the crap is out of the way here we go....

First thing first, get all of your tools ready to go, its annoying being in the middle of a job and trying to find that socket you misplaced a couple days ago....


Here's the what and the why:
5 gal bucket
-Perfect for sitting wheels/tires on while working on them
Wheel chocks
-redundancy to prevent the truck from moving while using the hi-lift
Sprayer bottle with soapy water
-bead lube for the inner bead
Hilift
-breaking the inner bead
Torque wrench
-absolutely necessary to ensure proper torque
1/2" drive impact with spline adapter
-remove wheels from truck
3/8" drive impact
-initial bolt removal (my low torque driver isn't strong enough to remove them)
Low torque impact driver
-initial bolt run in when reassembling beadlock
Cup/container
-hold any bolts or washers
Bolt torque down guide
-helps keep torque down sequence proper and not fuck it up

After you get wheel/tire off the truck throw it on the bucket and pull out the valve core


After all the air is out unthread the bolts


All of the bolts loosened up


You can keep all of the bolts in the ring if you choose, I placed them out of the way on a trash can


With the beadlock ring out of the way we can see underneath, its a little dirty in their I'll clean that up later(FYI there was no dirt of mud inside any of the tires even after 5 days of on/off rain in the San Juans, if the beadlock is air tight, it is also water tight)


Now its time to break the inner bead, most of the time it takes 2 press-downs to break the bead, sometimes 3. If you are unfamiliar how to use a high lift you'll be a master if you use this method to break beads




And now to separate the tire from the wheel, this is the only part of the job that requires any skill/technique, there is a specific way to do it, once you get it down it takes less than a minute to do it, but starting out it is frustrating as fuck and may take 20-30min to figure out how to do it from youtube videos


After separating the tire from the wheel I cleaned up and inspected the wheel. Honestly the hardest part about the whole job was cleaning the fucking adhesive from the wheel weights, seriously, fuck that glue. Close ups of the welds/seating area and a couple other close ups. First one is of the finish OMF puts on the wheel.





Now that I've got the fucking wheel weight glue off its time to install the wheel into the tire. The process is obviously the opposite of removing it. Wheel inside the new tire


Time to sit the wheel/tire back on the bucket and get the beadlock ring and bolts ready. After first placing the combo on the bucket the tire will not be sitting right on the wheel, I have to pry over the rubber so it sits right. In this photo you can see how the rubber is barely sitting on the seating surface for the clamp, at the very top of the photo it is seated properly, a little bit down the rubber is sitting incorrectly. I simply use a small flat blade screw driver and go around and seat the rubber where it needs to be.


Combo on the bucket with the tire sitting correctly.


After things are seated correctly its time to clean up the beadlock ring and inspect it.


Close up of the finish OMF applies to the rubber clamp area. I don't know why the holes look oblong, phone camera probably fucking up the angle with distortion, they are perfect circles despite how it looks.

After the ring is good to go I place it on and apply anti-seize to the bolts. Anti-seize is 100% necessary. Torque values provided are based on there being anti-seize and water has a tendency to collect behind the ring where the bolt threads are exposed. If you don't use anti-seize and the bolt rusts up the threads will enlarge due to the corrosion process and could damage the internal threads in the beadlock during unthreading. Men really love it when you glob it on......so don't be stingey with the anti seize


Now that all the bolts are hand started (never try to impact a bolt without first hand threading it a bit) its time to start the most time intensive part of the job. I do the initial run in with a low torque impact driver


Then do 4 passes with a torque wrench. First at 6ftlbs, second at 12ftlbs, third at 22ftlbs, and a fourth at 22ftlbs (yes again, to make sure all of them are at the final proper torque)


After its all torqued down and ready to go its time to set the inner bead, apply some soapy water


Then set the combo back on the bucket and hook up the air. Gravity will help pull the tire down, I simply hook the air and let it start filling, then wiggle the outside of the tire until there's a seal. After filling for a short bit, it will *POP* and the bead is seated. (Don't place anything loose on the tire while its filling with air, apparently the "*POP*" can be violent for some wheel/tire combos)


And now to compare the awesomely bigger tires to the old ones!!!!







By now you've probably realized that those are just 3 of the same tire side by side. These are just to show how silly those photos are that people post of new/old tires side by side. The inboard one is obviously mounted+aired up+loaded, the middle one is mounted+aired up, and the outside one is unmounted. Quite a big difference between the loaded and unloaded tires, even with the same exact tire.

 

Nice write up. Sub'd for later reference.

 

Sub'd for future reference.

 

Nice write up dude! Helps my decision a bit

 

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thanks

 

Wow

 

What valve stems are you using? I bought some 45 degrees stems from trail ready.

It took be about an hour per tire to install the beads in the tires.

Did you get them balanced?