Same torque for alloy wheels?

getting my new wheels tommorow....ordered new rims, tpms, center caps, wheel lugs....

question old rims...factory steel rims
new rims factory alloy rims...

toyota says torque to 83 ft lbs on steels...is it the same torque for alloy?

 

Yes. There is no distinction in the Owners Manual.

 

Yes. I make it a nice 85 ft lb.

 

Torque value are based on the fastener (lug bolt) size and the clamp load needed for the task.

83 ft lbs is correct and sufficient. Please do not fall into the mindset of "if tight is good, then tighter must be better"

BTW, few torque wrenches are able to discern a 2 ft lb difference. I torque mine to 85 ft lb setting on the torque wrench.

 

And also, that even lug nut torque will prevent induced warp in the brake rotors. Maybe not so much of an issue on the Taco, but there have been some pulsing rotors reported. Of course, no real feedback if re-torquing worked.

 

The tech at my dealer does the same. 85 ft-lbs torqued and retorqued.

 

Torque wrenches do not have a good resolution of increments.

I wouldn't consider it a "precision" instrument or tool.

 

just had mine done ..................83 !

be certain to hand mount ALL

NO ratchet/burp guns

U want to be able to get those lugz off at 3am in the rain dark on a soft shoulder

 

Yep. 85 ft lbs. Easy to remember.

 

i use a new craftman torque wrench, i torque every time i rotate tires...83 ft lbs
but 85 ft lbs sounds good

 

Out of curiosity, what does the wheel manufacturer recommend?

 

Curious why over torquing is bad. I know it is but dont know why

 

You stretch the bolt and it weakens it/can snap it in half. That applies to all bolts.

 

I love some auto manufacturers give you a range which drives me nuts. For example, our Hyundai Santa Fe torque is 65.1 ~ 79.6 lb - ft so I go with a nice round 80. They do this for all the fasteners from trim screws down to axle nut. In the long run, it's probably more representative of a variations in clamping force from torque wrench, lubricant on threads, bolt stretch... etc. but the ocd in me just wants one number!

 

interestingly, i was told this spec is manufacturer specific, not wheel specific, and is related to the hubs not the wheels.

 

puts too much stress on the bolt, and the contact surfaces.

 

There is always a range. But for shops and the home gamer, the nominal number is all that we need unless it is something particular like head bolts and such.

 

This a is great visual as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxVlgn7h6b8

 

Agreed!


Although, I do have a comment on the last part, but it would be pretty pedantic.