Rust proofing

Looking for input or experience with a rust proofing system. Live in Buffalo NY, where it seems that the towns compete over who can lay down more road salt in a given year. Dealer pushed Ziebart for $650, which I've seen first hand can end up holding moisture and causing more issues. Thinking oil based, but there are a lot of products out there. Hitting up the car wash religiously now that the white stuff is done for (hopefully) and seriously considering applying rust proofer in the fall. Thanks for your $.02.

 

Im interested too I may be moving to buffalo in a year or so!

 

I’m a believer in the Krown coating, which is available in your area. It’s ~$150/yr to get it reapplied, and they warranty everything it touches. They drill little holes (and then plug them) in all your panels and spray / mist it into everything so your truck can’t rust from the inside out. I figure I’m planning to keep the truck for as long as possible. Over say, 10yrs, you’re definitely gonna see rust in a salted-road area, so a $1500 investment is well worth it.

Lot of of guys on here like Fluid Film too, which is a similar idea but just on the underbody and you apply it yourself.

 

Check out this mega thread for more info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/

 

Not a bad place to live. Honestly the road salt will eat cars alive within 6 years or so depending on what it is. If you wash them every week, it'll keep it from getting ugly, but wrenching around here can be an unbelievable headache on older vehicles if they've been allowed to rust

 

Krown or fluid film. I would go ahead and apply it now, then again in the fall. This way you will have a good layer of protection when salt season begins. Some will wear off from use, so it’s good to reapply at least twice a year in your location.

 

Krown or Fluid film are proven. The "one time" paste stuff is convenient, but doesn't stand up over time. The black rubberized coating is the worst, traps moisture, and inevitably chips off leaving it completely exposed.

Nothing is better than a yearly applied oil application. For the first few years, I second Riding Dirty's statement.. apply it twice a year.. once in the early summer, and again in the fall. Wait for warm days, and no rain in the forecast.

If you're willing to, jack the truck up, grab a few cans of Fluid Film, and go over it even after the shop did it. (They can miss a few spots.)

Here's a previous post:

[QUOTE="Clear7" I have an 18 year old jeep (which are brutal for rust), and it still has the original paint on most of the frame. It's been driven every winter where salt is plastered on the road. I oil sprayed it from day one. Always in the heat of the summer every year. No power washing. The oil and dirt sludge that gets built up keeps the oil against the frame at all times, so the salt and oxygen can't do their thing.

It's not going to see any more winters, so I just started to clean it up. Look at the inside of the shock mount. Half has the oil crud still on it, while the other half I cleaned off has the original paint underneath. Just the front half of the frame has surface rust. Also note the side of the grill.. zero rust.

[/QUOTE]

 

Move outta the north, problem solved. Seriously though yeary bust all the rust off, paint, then fluid film is your best bet.

 

I'm north of you in the salt capital of North America. Where there's been numerous lawsuits against the city for over salting, Toronto.

Krown is a good option I've always done it to every car I own although the one I've dealt with was a bit disappointed with this season so might try a different one next season. Fluid film is another great option.

Don't waste your money on the shit the dealers say.

 

@Yeahbro31

Are you a "do it yourself" type?

I was asking a similar question and was told by a few reliable sources that Fluid Film was a good option.

First time I used Fluid Film, I purchased aerosol cans. I thought it was worth the effort, so I purchased the pro gun and gallon can from Kellsport.

I second the "twice a year", and if you time it right, you can apply Fluid Film during oil change/ tire rotation, since it is better with the tires and (front) skidplate removed.

This thread is the best I have found at TW relating to this subject:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-fluid-film-your-3rd-gen.455241/#post-13412819

And welcome to TW.

 

Move to Arizona. Best rust proofing I ever did

 

When I lived in pa I used to take used motor oil and spray inside the doors and cut with kerosene and spray the entire undercarriage and it would be good for years..

 

Thanks for all the input! Thinking the Krown seems worth the money. One last thought...how's the mess aftewards? Are we talking rainbows in the driveway after it rains, or is it pretty adherent to the truck? Again, thanks for all the feedback!

 

I sprayed my underside down with Cavity Wax last year and will definitely make it an annual thing, it is nice so far as it did not smell bad and it was not sticky after it cured.

 

With Krown it drips pretty good for a day or so, and then that’s it

 

Not to hijack OP's thread, but does any of this work after the truck's been Ziebarted?

 

I suggest that you DO NOT wait till fall.........Do it this spring so it doesn't take hold....

I'm a true believer for 30 yrs now of "Corrosion Free". I assume it's very much the same as Fluid Film and Krown....... There is NO dripping with it.....I get it every yr. at the original price (same price for life of truck)... About $140 CDN.

I suspect Krown the FF would do as well........Don't wait to get something on it ASAP........

 

Fluid film

 

Been in the autobody business for 20 years and have tested many products I would go with krown, it works well but swells door seals and rubber pieces.
Has a lifetime warranty against rust(from inside out) if you get it done every year.

 

Look into ACF-50 or Corrosion Block made by Lear Chemical.

ACF-50 is more expensive but won't loosen bolt torques. It's used on planes and helicopters and by the military.
You Fog/mist it on and it dries to a non-tacky finish. So no goo all over when you work on the underside.
You don't need to "hose it on" and if you do it lightly or fog it, it does not drip.
Lasts 2 years in areas not exposed to direct spray.
Does not damage rubber, paint, seals, or electronics, in fact can be sprayed on your electrical connections to help prevent corrosion and prevent water intrusion.
Just don't SOAK natural rubber parts in it.
Can even coat your exhaust with it.
Fog it in your engine bay....
It does lubricate so keep it off your brakes!!! Can't describe it but the truck seemed "smoother" when I drove it afterwards.
It does not break down in high heat like regular products do (why it works in the engine bay and on the exhaust).
Best stuff out there.
In the UK they use it on their motorcycles in the fall and then don't wash the bikes until spring and they look good as new.