Royal purple or Mobil 1??

Money is not really and issues. Last oil change I out RP was using Mobil 1 for the last 30k. Now is RP better than Mobil 1? I seen at many forums that Mobil 1 its not same it used to be. RP is a full synthetic and Mobil 1 not. Which one would you recommend for our trucks?? Please ? it's only about this 2 oils I don't want to start a oil war. Thanks guys

 

Royal purple is crap.

I tested a number of oils in my own motorcycle (plus collected sheets from others).
RP didn't hold up any better than Castrol GTX

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls

I run Mobil-1 or Amsoil in all of my vehicles.

 

Penzoil Platinum

 

I switched to mobil1 almost 10k miles ago. First change was at 5k miles and it barely looked used. I'm just about due for another change and it looks a little more burned. But I'm sure the winter is more harsh on it. Runs great, no issues. I've heard great things about RP but it's hard to find where I'm at. Also, mobil1 is still a full synthetic. I'm curious as to why you think it's not

 

X2 on the amsoil. I would use it if I could find it haha. Also interesting take on RP. I've heard good things. But not necessarily in our trucks.

 

That's what I was thinking RP is more high performance vehicles.

 

I've heard pretty much nothing but bad things about royal purple FWIW.

 

I been wondering about Penzoil Ultra.

 

read up

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

 

Royal purple for life

 

Believe me been reading that forum for a while now. I was just curious about RP in our trucks against M1

 

I've been starting to put royal purple on my truck everytime I do my oil change I always have a $10 gift card from pepboys from my rewards card

 

cool, carry on.

 

I have used many brand oils in my 3.4 V6 from castrol edge, mobile 1, Rottella, royal purple all synthetic with 0 difference in ANYTHING!!!

I change my oil every 5k-8k miles and my oil is clean and only a little dark from use.

I change my filter each time as well with high end filters like the K&N or mobile 1 filters.. fram is just garbage and not worth buying.

Rottella oil is for diesel motors and is totally fine for our gas engines.

I am using royal purple at the moment and its fine, quiet and smooth.

I used to run only mobile 1 high mileage from 120k-160k but its hard to find so I have tried and used other brands with the exact same results.

Moral of my story is as long as its synthetic its probably going to perform the same..

WE do not have super high compression race motors so it really doesn't matter at all.

 

I noticed that with RP the engine warms up faster on cold morning starts. Truck is running smooth and feels great, same that with RP. Like I said I did notice my engine warming up sooner as well as more quiet at idle.

 

But is that k&n filter really that much better? http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...-oil-filter-made-thailand-vs-competition.html

 

I read somewhere that Royal Purple get its claimed horsepower gains by actually being a "thinner" oil, leading to less resistance between engine parts which in turn gives extremely minor HP gains. This is great if you are driving a race car that gets rebuilt every few races, and need that extra .5 hp for competition. For every day use I would shy away from any oil claiming HP gains like RP, since in my mind the only way for a motor oil to produce these gains is to prioritize performance over protection. That being said I've run RP in a Z-28 Camaro I had and it seemed fine, maybe slightly less oil pressure on the gauge but barely noticeable. I think the main thing is to always keep clean oil\filter regardless of brand. Also, I have heard nothing but good things about Mobil 1.

 

Mobil 1 is good full synthetic oil.

Someday everyone will agree on motor oil...not!

 

K&N oil filter is identical to the Mobil-1 filter.

They're both good... but not worth 2x the cost of a Pure-One or 3x the cost of an OEM filter.

My main beef with the M1/K&N is when they did a redesign back in '04 or '05 (same time Bosch bought Purolator), they changed the bypass valve design.
It is now at the TOP of the can, so when it opens, the bypassing oil is passing over the (dirty) outside of the filter element.
With the old design, and AFAIK, the Toyota design, the filter element lifts off of the base and there is a direct path from inlet to outlet across the (cleaner) bottom of the element and drainback valve.

 

Wouldn't the 'dirty' side of the filter be the input side, not the output side? I don't see the harm in the oil running down the backside of the filter material since the particles in the filter aren't going to be pulled through. I'm picturing an air filter, the intake side of it is the side that will get your hand dirty if you wipe it, not the engine side, that should always be clean.