rims getting stuck to rotors?

Alright,
This seems like a dumb question, but why are my tires not coming off? I went to pull my front tires to inspect my rotors and breaks due to a bunch of shimmy and shake when coming back from fishing the other day. Put the truck on stands pulled the lugs and rims just stuck to the rotor on both sides. WTF? they are stock 2010 17" sport rims. I beat on the tires with a sledge to see if I could get them to pop and no go.
Suggestions?

 

Jack the truck up in front - keep the lug nuts on but loose - drop the truck with the jack - tire breaks free - jack it up again and take it off. I take no responsibility if you F up but I've done it many times. When you are finished put some never seez on the area that was "welded"

 

I have this problem and just get under the front of the truck and kick the tire from behind. One or two kicks and it always loosen.

 

Boy you are crazy!

 

it happens because of galvanic corrosion. easiest and safest way is a piece of 2x4 about 4 feet long and the jack that comes with the truck. one end of the 2x4 butts up to the inside of one rim, base of the jack against the other end and the head of the jack against the inside of the rim you are trying to get off

 

Why is that?

I'm under the front bumper not the truck. Gheesh.

 

I like to kick from the outside, opposite sides until it breaks loose.

 

Wipe a thin layer of grease on the wheel hub's inner surface where it contacts the rotor hat and wipe some in the hub-bore. Problem solved.

 

On a jack stand I hope, even then the bumper can also squish you.

To each its own...

 

Just loosen the lugs some and then drive it around the block with some hard turns. Then grease as suggested above.

 

Beat it off from the inside hitting the inside of the rim with a dead blow hammer. Once you have it off, put a dab of anit-sieze on the inside of the rim where it hits the wheel when you put it back on(like 5 separate places). This will not let it get stuck together for the future. I also put a small dab on the lugs because I had the same problem with them getting welded on and broke a lug trying to get my wheel off on the side of the highway in the middle of the night with a flat tire. Some people say don't do this but get a flat on 79 in Pittsburgh in February in the middle of the night and it will change your mind....

 

It's not face of the rotor or the drum that the wheel bonds to from galvanic corrosion, it is the pilot on the front hub / rear axle within the wheel pilot hole. That is the area to apply anti-seize or grease once the wheel is removed and the surfaces cleaned. DO NOT apply anti-seize or grease to the face of the rotor hat or drum, or the flat mating surface on the wheel - doing so can contribute to broken studs and a wheel-off situation. Rotating your tires on a regular basis also helps prevent badly seized wheels.

 

The hub-bore is the area that's usually the culprit. But placing a very thin layer of grease on the inner hub surface will help as well...and won't cause any problems. Been doing it for years. A thin layer of grease with the proper lug torque won't cause any issues.

 

I always use Antisieze on my wheels to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.

 

I just painted my hubs/drums with rustolium bed liner. The rotor hats were already painted.

I also use spacers, which helps too.

 

Swinging the spare against the stuck tire has worked for me on SWMBO's Honda.

 

I use anti-seize as well . Although they say not to use it on lug nutt threads , I continue to use it as I always have . I figure if a tire is about to fall off , I am going to feel it in the steering wheel before it happens . I also put anti seize all around the hub . Never had to hammer a rim off since and been doing it for 30 years

 

I painted it a year ago, no issues so for.

 

I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles and put anti-seize on my lugs/threads and haven't had any problems with the wheels sticking. I used to always use anti-seize on the jeep between the rotors/wheels to prevent corrosion. The Jeep was more susceptible to corrosion & rust because it was exposed to more mud/water and less mileage as it sat for longer periods. But....haven't had issues with the tacoma at all.

Use Anti-seize on wheel/rotor (metal on metal surfaces) and on the rear axle shaft/drum too!

 

Same here, I also use just a touch on the threads and also on the taper of the lugnuts.