Retiming Tacoma V6 3.4 / Realign Right Camshaft

Hi all,

I’m working on changing on changing my timing belt. I had all the timing marks lined up, removed the tensioner, then tried to remove the crankshaft bolt while holding the camshaft on the passenger side, and the belt slipped. The passenger camshaft mark is now nine teeth off to the right. The crank and passenger side cam are lined up.

Anyone have any tips? I rotated the passenger cam once and it won't line up. Do I need to retime the engine, and how would I do that?

Thanks!

 

I don’t have the answer but will follow along for tips in case it ever happens.
Ways to prevent this are helpful with those with experience.

This seems to have caused it?
Clamping the crankshaft while removing bolt or using washers maybe? Sorry not of help currently

 

I think my biggest mistake was removing the tensioner before the crankshaft bolt. It caused the teeth on the belt to slip on the passenger camshaft. I did read in the my guide you can wedge a flathead in the crankshaft sprockets while removing the bolt...after it slipped.

 

Think I might of found something. The white mark on the crank dampener indicates "top dead center" for the number 1 cylinder only. The camshafts position, relative to crankshaft position, determines whether or not the pistons are on their intake, compression, power, or exhaust strokes.Since each piston reaches it's own TDC once per crankshaft revolution, 1 piston out of 8 is at TDC for every 45 degrees of crankshaft rotation. If you need to realign the camshafts to the crank..... be aware that the toyota V8 is an interference engine. Valve damage will occur if you rotate the crank without using caution. The following is the safest way to realign the timing belt without risking major damage to the engine.
1. remove the spark plugs, this step will allow you to turn the engine by hand and let you feel for any piston to valve contact.
2. Gently turn the crank to 22.5 degrees BTDC ( before top dead center ) or ATDC (after top dead center). This position will assure that none of the 8 pistons is at TDC, which reduces the chances of piston to valve contact.
3.Realign the camshaft pullies to the respective timing marks.
4. Rotate the crankshaft back to TDC.
5. Install the timing belt on the engine.
6. Rotate the engine by hand a few times and double check the belt alignment.
7. Reinstall the spark plugs.
Provided that you put everything else back together correctly during the reinstall phase, your engine should run fine.

good luck

 

Rotating the passenger camshaft, the timing mark lines up on three positions. Bottom dead center, 22.5 degrees to the left or right, but not top dead center.

I can get the passenger cam to line up but it wants to turn, it still wants to turn into one of the above positions, but it will sit in that position. Could I install the timing belt and just not let the passenger cam move?

 

Just talked to a mechanic friend. He said it’s natural for the passenger camshaft to want to jump, but hold it at the timing mark, install the timing belt, get the slack of the belt to the tensioner, then apply the tension, and make sure the marks don’t move. Then you are good to go. If I’m wrong, at least the engine is non-interference.

 

I use c-clamps to hold the belt in position on the pulleys. I had the tensioner retracted and pinned. Other people may use a different approach.

Rotating the cam pulleys in opposite directions gives slack to the lower end of the belt so it easily slid over the crankshaft and tensioner pulley.

You can see the excess belt slack in the picture.

What tool will you be using to hold the crankshaft pulley while you torque the crankshaft bolt?



With #1 cyl on TDC I had the following line up for the pink dot with the mark



Belt CR line notch should align with this dot on the crankshaft if you are working with a belt that has the markings.

 

@CS_AR
I will use the c-clamp to hold the belt.

I am using a metal plate will three holes in it that will push against the frame while I torque the crankshaft bolt. I'll include a picture later.

So as long as all timing marks line up once the tensioner is applied, I’m good to go?

 

It was for me. After I released the tensioner and removed the c-clamps, I rotated the crankshaft through a cycle just to double check everything stayed in alignment.

Here's a write up from member @turbodb in the following threads.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-and-adventures.484602/page-52#post-18073413

https://adventuretaco.com/step-by-s...r-3-4l-v6-5vzfe-also-4runner-tundra-and-t100/

 

Okay good.

Thanks for posting the write ups.

My instructions that came with the kit said not to rotate the cams or crank without the belt. Is that because of the problem I’m having or because it will damage the engine? If it damages the engine, how bad?

If I can get the crank bolt of before installing the belt so I can change the crank seal, how often does the crank seal actually leak? Changing the cam seals right now.

 

Yeah, I used some plastic quick release clamps to hold the new belt in place on the cams.

I struggled for like 30 minutes with he belt slipping before I got the idea to clamp it.

 

The 3.4L is a non-interference engine. So rotating the cams will not hurt it. No valves crashing into pistions like an interference engine.

Did you set your engine to top dead center (TDC) before you started work?

My kit came with all new seals, belts, and a water pump. I changed everything that came in the 15 piece kit.

 

Yes I did set it to top dead center, but it slipped.

Might just skip the crank seal. The cam seals looked pretty good.

 

And you would just reset the timing marks independent of each other? Engine ran good after?

 

Didn’t need to, I was super paranoid and made sure not to move anything once the belt was off.

As long as the cam marks are lined up, and the crank mark is lined up and you’re at TDC, you’re all good.

 

Thank you, feeling good about it. Starting to put stuff back on.

 

Nice, good luck!

As someone already said, it is a non interference motor, so you can’t really hurt it.

My paranoia paid off because it started right up, just like it hadn’t been in 100 pieces for 3 days. It was a great feeling!

 

Awesome job man! That can be such an intimidating feeling, especially when you get as deep as timing on engines. Saved yourself hundreds, gained invaluable experience, and you know it was done correctly. Solid work hombre

 

Indeed! I did a little dance when it started. Which was good, because I had to drive it to work the next day?

I had done a head gasket on my 22r-te 4runner, and that turned out ok too, well sort of. My issue ended up being a cracked block, but hey, at least I did the HG correct, lol.

Had to think back to my days in highschool. Did a couple years of an auto shop class, but those were mostly small blocks on engine stands. The 22re and the taco were definitely the most advanced motors I’ve turn a wrench on.

 

Started the engine up yesterday, runs, and sounds great. The pride that comes from working on your vehicle is great!