Required 30k maintenance

Other than an oil change and tire rotation what other maintenance should be complete at 30k miles on my 2.7l 4 cylinder SR? I want to make sure I do not let the dealer take advantage of unnecessary maintenance when I take my truck in at 30k miles because I hear this is common. Thanks

 

Look in the warranty and maintenance guide. Go through the list and check each off as you do it. Put the date and mileage on the lines given to do so.

 

Engine air filter and cabin filter are due for change at 30k. If I were you I would purchase those outside of the dealership and replace right before going in for service.
If you download the toyotaowners app or do it online you can input anything you do and the mileage and date.

 

*Check installation of driver’s floor mat
*Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
*Inspect wiper blades
*Lubricate propeller shaft (4WD)
*Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
*Replace engine air filter
*Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
*Rotate tires

Inspect the following:
_ Ball joints and dust covers
_ Brake lines and hoses
_ Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 4
_ Cabin air filter
_ Drive shaft boots (4WD)
_ Engine coolant 5
_ Exhaust pipes and mountings
_ Front differential oil (4WD)
_ Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses

NOTE: Driving in heavy traffic, on dirt roads or in urban, dusty or desert areas may shorten the life of the cabin air filter. Replacement may be needed if you notice reduced air flow from the air conditioner and heater or if the windows fog easily when you use the Fresh mode. Consult your dealer if any of these conditions occur.

Check W & M Guide for Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions

 

differentials,transfer case,transmission oil change

 

Just did all of this over the weekend, only thing left is to re torque the 2 bolts on propeller shaft. I’m not 100 percent sure which ones.. can’t find any pictures and I know I May need to get some sort of crows foot or adaptor to access them with my wrench

 

30,000 km / miles. Am I reading this right? Kilometres and miles are different, correct?

 

I'm having my 30k service done today and I'm having them also do: front diff, rear diff, transfer case and transmission fluid.

All of them together plus oil change and tire rotation is only $440, which to me is nothing for a major service on an offroad truck.

 

Man what a deal!

 

Have you looked up how much the full synthetic gear oil costs just for parts?? It actually is a good deal

I mean I could save like $150 doing it all myself on a Saturday morning but honestly, my Saturday morning is worth more to me than that. We all value our time differently though, I know people that will drive 100 miles to save $50.

 

30,000km = 18641.136 mi

 

Where are you buying your oil in which you’d only save $150? Are you telling me you’re spending $300 on oil? If so you need to buy your stuff elsewhere.

6 quarts of engine oil at Costco is $25
Then you’ll need maybe 6 quarts of gear oil for the front/rear diffs and transfer. Say you get the pricier stuff at $15/quart that’s still only $90.New gaskets will cost you $5 maybe. So all together you’re looking at +/- $120 for oil change yourself.

 

You can save over $300 doing it yourself with the oil change included, as well and use all synthetic gear fluid. Toyota motor oil is really Mobil 1 now. I'm into mild wrenching which is just maintenance, it's easy and fun for quite a few owners. If you change gear fluids, get a pump. I'm doing 60K changes on all gears, tcase, manual trans with all synthetic which is still probably more than needed.

I'm not trusting the factory and dealers for fluid changes, they sent a shit ton of auto trans from the factory with 1.5qts low on fluid which definitely effected shifting, the other is the gearing, but that's for the mpg and cafe requirements, but I digress.

The dealership charges top dollar for everything. After the two free oil changes and five tire rotations, you can do everything yourself and save the receipts. Take it in for recalls and major issues under the 60k powertrain warranty.

After that, drive the hell out of your truck until something breaks and replace it with an upgrade.

JMHO

 

60k is what I’m changing all my fluids at. 30k is way overkill for most Tacoma owners. Not worth wasting money on fluids that don’t need to be changed that are well within tolerance of the recommended guidelines.

 

If you ever take it off road it’s worth changing at 30. I did mine just over 30. Somehow my front diff was significantly more dirty than my rear diff. If you only keep it on the street it’s probably fine at 60, but it’s really not that expensive to do it yourself at 30k

 

Why is my first scheduled service after 3 months? Is there a reason for this random amount of time? Do they expect most people to have hit the 5k mile mark, possibly?

 

Agreed, 30k changes with synthetic gear oil is just a waste. Even 60k can be a waste, but it's still cheap maintenance when you consider synthetic fluids are cheaper than the craft beer I'm drinking.

I've seen owners put in synthetic gear fluids and never change them again, they'll go well over 200,000 miles on the fluid. Bob Is The Oil Guy has a ton of info on this.

Internal combustion is another story and I would never go over 10k on an engine oil without a remote high efficiency filter.

 

I stopped reading after “Mobil 1”. First that’s not true, second Mobil 1 isn’t even real full synthetic it just has a bunch of additives. Any auto enthusiast has known that since 2006. Mobil 1 in Europe is held to a higher standard than the Mobil 1 in the US since then (read up on it it’s actually a really interesting marketing gimmick)

Yes I could put Mobil 1 in, but I actually trust the fully synthetic OEM. Only other fluid I’d put in my truck is amsoil.

And that’s cool you enjoy wrenching I did as well when I was a kid with a bunch of free time. Nowsadays I’d rather be in mammoth, glamis or Baja than saving a few dollars playing mechanic

 

I’m doing a lot more than an oil change.

12-16 quarts of full synthetic gear oil is the costly part. Alignment second. Plus all the filters but those are cheap.

 

I'm aware of all of the POA and Hydrocracked debates and Group 3, 4, 5, etc.

BITOG has confirmed with many uoa's that TGMO got rid of the high moly awhile ago and is very close to Mobil 1. Additive packs will often outperform a group IV and V synthetics, case in point Pennzoil Ultra Platinum which has shown stellar results over Toyota and Mobil 1 oil. Use whatever synthetic you want, they all will go 10k oci and your Toyota engine will make it to 300k and may well do the same with dino oil.

My friend went 440K miles with 10k oci on cheap dino oil and filter on a 1st gen 3.4L, gaskets and seals did leak, but never any internal problems.

Funny, I own a business and pay my people to work so I can wrench. Kind of backwards.