Replacing Rear Main Seal w/o clutch alignment tool

Ayyy guys. The taco just passed 200k and she’s starting to show her age. Have to replace the head gasket and redo the boots on the axles. I replaced the clutch back when she has 160kish and I was dumb not to change out the rear main then. Now she’s starting to show some leaks and I want to get a head of it before it gets worse.

Any recommendations on aligning the clutch without the alignment tool after replacing ace the seal? Having a hard time finding an alignment tool by itself without getting a clutch kit. Or do one of you have the tool laying around I can scoop off you?

Thanks again

 

As someone who attempted this on a Ford Ranger, I don’t recommend even trying it.
So, I went to autozone and explained my situation. They actually had a clutch kit in stock.
The guy let me borrow the alignment tool.

That was years ago. You’d probably have to buy the kit, use the tool, and return the kit when done.

 

Also, FWIW. I think the bolts on the flywheel to crank are torque to yield.
I think you are supposed to use new ones. @6 gearT444E or @Dm93 might know for sure.

 

That I'm not sure, but I never reuse them anyhow. I had to get longer ones for use with the URD heavy flywheel.

 

Doesn't say anything in service info about replacing them, just put thread sealant on them and torque to 61 ft/lb.

 

I figured it out.
I am WRONG the TTY bolt are on the 2.7.

The 4.0 shows 61 ft/lb.

 

Yeah, I was thinking wrong.
It was the 2.7 that is TTY

 

I use a socket extension and my eyes, but I have loads of experience and a hoist with a jack stand. You'll want a clutch line up tool.

 

I never found the alignment tools to be of much good. They simply do not fit tight enough into the pilot bearing/bushing. The weight of the disc will just pull it down. Check the diameter of the disc against the pressure plate. Hold the disc with fingers at the bottom and as you tighten by hand (no air or battery tools) slowly and evenly tighten the pressure plate while checking around the circumference that the disc has the same step from the pressure plate all they around. It can also help to get two bolts that are of the same size as the bell housing bolts but a couple inches longer. Cut the heads off, cut slots for a screw driver in the ends where you cut the heads of, install in the lower bell housing bolt holes in the engine block (one on each side). You will use these to help align and guide trans into place. Have an actual bell housing bolt ready to install once trans is seated onto engine. Once trans is seated by hand (do not use the bolts to do so) install that one bell hosing bolt. Double check that nothing fell in between engine and trans Do not let the trans hang on the disc. Make sure all surfaces are clean and if there are dowel pins in block make sure they are clean and the holes that the go into before starting the trans install.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153439213070?fits=Model:Tacoma|Make:Toyota&epid=112623365

 

Nice find

 

Yea I've made several makeshift alignment tools for tractor clutches but an proper alignment tool is ideal.

Yea you have to hold in on the alignment tool while tightening up the pressure plate or it will "sag" and be out of alignment.

 

the OE flywheel bolts on the 1GR are a non-reusable part. Get new ones, they’re cheap. Or buy the ARP ones from URD

 

non-reusable

 

Very much appreciate the input everyone. Will make sure to grab some new flywheel bolts as well.

Can we confirm that this tool is the right size? Have you used that specific one before?

 

So, I have done the clutch or have removed it and the flywheel at least 3 times, if not 4. LOL! I used a socket that is 3/8" drive that fits in the flywheel with a long extension. ( no pilot bearing for the GR) then a 1/2" drive socket that fits in the fingers on the pressure plate. I have done this every time and it has worked for me.
Keep in mind all the loose parts assembled "for an alignment tool" will add a little challenge holding it and the pressure plate.

 

I’ve got one in my shop I’ll go grab it and compare in the morning.

 

Rockauto has them for the 6 speed
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ransmission-manual,clutch+alignment+tool,7700

 

here’s what I used with my RA60F for clutch replacement. 21 spline and here are the measurements.


diameter of the pilot hole


Diameter with splines

 

Based on that, the eBay link looks like maybe it’s for a 5 speed, the spline count is the same but the R155F has a pilot bearing hence why the nose is smaller for the bearing ID. It may work for the 6 speed, $7 might be worth the gamble, get one from Rock auto first and see if it works. Looks closer in shape and size to the one I used.