Replacing Oil Pan

Anything I should know before I dive into this in a few days?

Looks pretty straightforward.
1.Remove the rock guards and shields.
2.Remove a dozen or so bolts on the pan and drop. (scrape away old gasket?)
3.Apply gasket ooze and bolt on new one.
4.Fill with fresh oil.
5.Burn gas

Also getting new plug and gasket. Any idea what size the pan bolts are?

Thanks!

 

What is TIS and where can I get a copy of the service manual?

I stripped the threads whilst tightening. Uber dumb mistake. Done this a billion times and never had this happen before. Tried a slightly larger plug with self tapping threads and it made the problem worse as it was very difficult to keep it straight whilst screwing in.

Ugh.

Such is the life of a DIY-er

 

This should help when you put it back on......

 

I purchased the TIS but can't for the life of me find anything on the oil pan.

Any help would be great and within 2 days would be better.

 

In mine, it's talked about in the timing chain replacement sections. There's not a lot to it, like you said. Take bolts off. Then there is a special tool you can get called an Oil Pan Seal Cutter that may help you get the old one off without destroying anything. If not, a screwdriver will probably work, just be careful. Then clean the old crap off, and seal up the new one like the picture I linked. Here's another snap of the removal portion.....

 

How does one go about breaking the gasket seal? I know they have special tool for it: http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Gasket-Seal-Separator-Remover/dp/B0031RBGZ2

But is it really necessary?

I am contemplating taking it to my mechanic to avoid any more disasters.

 

I got a call back from the mechanic. They want 7 hrs to replace. They said that the transfer case and cv shafts have to come out.

I checked my estimating software (I'm an insurance adjuster) and it says that the front differential needs to be out of the way only. Is that a complicated procedure?

 

Here's a wild idea. What about JB welding a nut on the bottom of the pan?

 

You could just get a plug from the auto store that will be slightly bigger and will fix your issue

 

why not tap new threads? unable to stay straight?

 

Have you crawled under there and looked? I don't think that is right. Seems like the whole pan is exposed. It's been a few months since I changed my oil, I can't remember.

 

Completed the job.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully she is leak free when I add oil in a few hours.

I was able to focus on one edge and gently prior it off with a long handle blade of sorts.

I did manage to snap a bolt due to over torque. Hopefully this will not pose a problem since the other 11 bolts are snug. I just ran a bead of gloop over the now headless bolt.

Learning as I go here. It's bound to happen. I mistakened the 80 in ft lb for 80 ft lb. My Lowe's 3/8 Torque wrench starts at 20 ft lb so I was destined for trouble. I hand tightened what I thought was 7 ft lb on the other bolts.

 

Why not drill and easy out the bolt. You should have pleanty of room to do that. You have a leak point in the making.

 

This happened to me as well, replacing the oil pan was cake, most of the work was scraping the old gasket off. I also installed a Fumoto oil drain valve to insure this never happens again, plus this valve is awesome makes oil changes fast!

http://www.qwikvalve.com

 

I have done the same. The last few threads near the inside has been striped. So far, it hasn't leaked over 5k+ miles. I just bought the futomo valve for the next oil change.

 

If you used a good sealant (I use permatex right stuff) properly applied and allow it to cure, that broken bolt may not matter at all. You could take them all out and nothing would happen. The only possible issue I see is that it was probably the first bolt you tightened which means a lot of the sealant was squeezed out. Monitor it and if it starts leaking you'll have to do it all over again and remove/replace that bolt. Now that you have practice it'll be a cakewalk.

 

Don't mean to bring back an old thread, but does anybody have an idea what the bot number or part number is for those 15 bolts? I had a couple snap and I need to replace them.

Not sure if these are them?
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/p...-TRANSMISSION-OIL-PAN/2424249/90119A0164.html


Thanks

 

Should have learned your lesson with the stripped drain plug. These are small bolts and require small torque. Especially the sensetive ones such as the 10mm oil pan and drain plug.

1. The pan bolts should be torqued to spec
2. The drain plug should be tight enough to seal, and not come loose.

Keep in mind how much material is actually holding on.