Replacing Brake Drums But Not Shoes

I just got one brake drum off my '02 Tacoma that was a PITA, and the other side is still seized on. Working on the second this weekend. Both drums have jacked bolt holes so I can't use the bolt method on either. Thinking to just replace these drums now so that I can use the bolt holes again if they ever seize onto the hub again (but I won't let that happen).

Question:
Is there any issue I should consider when replacing the drums only but not the shoes? The shoes still look pretty good, and I was thinking about using them for another 20k+ miles with some new drums. Then maybe replace the shoes in 2-3 years.

I can think only of one consideration, and that is the rear brake hardware could probably benefit from being replaced sooner than later (even if the shoes are still good). So there is an argument I guess to do the hardware and shoes along with the drums.

 

You did back the adjuster off before attempting to remove the drum?

Those threads in the drum are not meant to handle much force they will strip real fast .

i don`t think I every used them.

If I pull the drums new shoes and hardware are a given.

Then perhaps you only drive less then a few thousand miles in a year.

Do what works best for you it is your truck .

 

Common issue for years. Use a small drill, bore small holes as close as you can to the axle in the drum get out your propane torch and hope for the best. If and when you get them off pound the anti seize to the drums and axle. What is a "jacked" bolt hole"? The drums are threaded but very thin they won't stand just the bolt with out some help. Rear brakes on a Toyota last a long time.

 

Guess that's one of those you have to ask cause you never know who you are talking to. Yep, backed off the adjusters 100%. When I started to remove them, they probably hadn't been removed for over 100k. That won't happen again. I agree, those threads are iffy - mine were bad from the get go and just not helpful. Too much water and time.

Sure, I know I can just decide, and it's only a matter of buying the new shoe kit now or later. I was just wondering if there was actually some mechanical reason to replace the shoes at the same time. If I think about it for too long, it probably just means I need to replace the shoes and hardware for peace of mind.

 

I would recommend you do everything. Drum brakes are cheap and you don't want to replace just the drums and create wear from those shoes just to replace them with different shoes which can create noise. Make sure you adjust the shoes inward before you attempt to pull them off as there is a rust/ wear ridge the shoes will catch on if not adjusted inwards.

 

I recently bought a generic drum brake hardware kit for $10 at AutoZone, but any of the part stores should have them. It will come with all-new hardware and springs for both sides and you'll probably have some left over. I'd consider grabbing one if $10 doesn't hurt ya right now. Plus, fresh springs make things a lot easier when you're reinstalling all of the drum components.

 

It's never happened to me before because I take mine off more often and use anti-seize, but now that I am tasked with maintaining this truck I have to get these drums off. I tried the torch already but ran out of propane. Will refuel and try more. "Jacked" bolt hole just means it was bad to begin with... the threads were corroded and unusable. Couldn't even begin to thread a bolt.

Since I got the drum off one side already, I can see the shoes are still fairly thick and this truck is at 237k with probably originals. And I measured the drum I removed... still good. So it's not a safety concern, more of a "get the drum the hell off the hub" concern. When the day comes that I know for sure I am replacing the shoes, I'll be stuck with this then, so may as well do it now.

 

Probably should. Just started feeling lazy and cheap I guess, because I did so much vehicle maintenance already the last 2 months. I have 2 trucks and a 4Runner and been going to town on them with maintenance and upgrades.

On the first drum, after ensuring the adjusters were fully retracted inward - it still wouldn't come off. When the first drum finally came off after a lot of hard work, it didn't seem like there was a ridge or lip. So maybe the second one does have a lip/ridge or maybe it is just REALLY seized on. I wish the adjuster would go in just a little bit more!

 

Put old wearable parts on new parts? THE HORROR!



I just did rear drums and shoes a few months ago, spring for the shoes, they're not that expensive. They may look good, but get them next to a brand new set. I couldn't bring myself to put old shoes on brand new or refurbished drums.

 

I resorted to cutting drums off a few times in my day.

I think more tired and burnt out .

When it gets old it is no longer fun .

 

Ideally, you want to the shoes and drum to wear together as one.
Sure, you can replace just the drum. If you have an issue, it will be with the new shoes when you install them later. You might have wear issues and/or noise as the new shoes wear to an already worn drum.
You might have no issues at all. The choice is yours.

 

Use a 3-4 lb metal headed mini sledge hammer and beat on it and it will come off - a dead blow plastic hammer is useless in this fight.

 

At this point I am probably going to beat the hell out of the drum or cut it, and will have to replace the drum and do the shoes with it!

 

Already been using PB Blaster and a 4 lb. sledge to hit around the hub contact points and also coming in from the sides of the drum. But when I get back to this on the weekend I think I am going to step up the force of the pounding a bit knowing that I will just be replacing everything. Only concern at that point is tip-toeing around the studs with the sledge.

 

If I were you I would consider Genuine Toyota Parts when buying brake shoes. I've had too much heartbreak using brake shoes outta OReilly and the other non-OEM parts stores.

 

I think I'm okay buying buying brake drums that aren't Toyota Parts, but I am more likely to buy Genuine Toyota brake shoes. Generally I don't like using the chain auto part stores, and if I do use aftermarket parts I typically scrutinize them well and order online. I'm a bit more open to some of the parts stores than others, like Napa has always done me better than O'Reilly.

 

I think the PB Blaster and wait is going to work for you, let it soak, squirt it again every now and then. I had a fun time with my tie rod ends replacing LCA's and ball joints:

In other news, I hear a mix of ATF and acetone beats out almost any commercial penetrating oil. I was just too tired to try it LOL

 

Once you have the wheel off, just put the lug nuts back on each stud to protect the threads incase you accidently catch one of them with the sledge. Then hit that mofo hard. Might take 10-20 minutes, but it will come off.

 

Pb soak for a day...

Then torch and one of these bad boys.....unfortunately I dont even have one....yet...