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Replacing AC compressor but not evaporator?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by mk5, Apr 19, 2022.

  1. Apr 19, 2022 at 9:06 PM
    #1
    mk5

    mk5 [OP] Probably wrong about this

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    Wanted a second opinion, because I've never worked on an AC system...

    I'm contemplating replacing my compressor, condenser, and refrigerant lines, but not the evaporator or anything else buried in the dash. Is that universally stupid?

    20220419_205651_resized.jpg

    Here's the situation. I've had my cab jacked up a couple inches for maybe a week trying to reinforce the core support because I like to drive fast in the desert.... The other night I noticed that my AC compressor is wet and bright green. Hmmm...

    I'm thinking that I wasn't careful enough jacking up the cab, and that allowed refrigerant and oil to leak out of the compressor at the line fittings. Or, perhaps my compressor has started internally leaking on its own, and I just happened to notice it.

    The AC was working just fine the last time the truck ran, and there's still positive pressure in the system. It's tempting to just try refilling it after I'm done with this project to see if it would keep working, but ultimately it is 17 years old and has over 200k miles, so I'm thinking I should just replace the compressor. If I'm doing that, I may as well swap the refrigerant lines, throw in a new condenser, and of course all new o-rings.

    Most things I read say I should also change the evaporator, but that's a total PITA. I don't think my compressor has failed in a way that has released shrapnel into the lines, since it was working fine last time I drove it. And I don't think the system has yet been contaminated, there's still at least some pressure in it. Of course if the lines are full of crud I'll have to change my plan, but for now I'd like to skip replacing the evaporator.

    My plan is to have it discharged, then plug off the evaporator while I swap out the lines and the condenser at home. I'll pour out a bit of the compressor oil to account for that remaining in the evaporator, then button everything up and pull vacuum on it ASAP. I'll either keep it evacuated, or refill with argon (because that's what I have) to drive back to an AC shop to have it charged and leak-tested.

    Anyone see a problem with this plan?
     
  2. Apr 19, 2022 at 9:41 PM
    #2
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    cajunbull61, mk5[OP] and Jimmyh like this.
  3. Apr 19, 2022 at 10:07 PM
    #3
    mk5

    mk5 [OP] Probably wrong about this

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    Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize you could pull it out from the engine side of the firewall. Added to cart!

    Follow-up question: Do I really need to remove the radiator to replace the condenser? I'm reading through the FSM now and it says to remove the whole stupid fan and radiator. That can't possibly be true, can it?
     
  4. Apr 19, 2022 at 11:52 PM
    #4
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    The evaporator is pass through. When compressors blow up sending shrapnel in the system which you can verify by inspecting for gray graphite particles, people flush the system with refrigerant bypassing certain components, removing certain parts like desiccant to allow flow, and replace those.

    for example restrictor/expansion valve and desiccant bag in the condenser if it can be separately replaced, which according to the RockAuto parts catalog, it may be.

    evaporator is likely hard to get to and behind the dash. People only replace those if they leak.
     
    mk5[OP] likes this.
  5. Apr 22, 2022 at 6:44 PM
    #5
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    no need to remove radiator. Just unbolt from the core support and swing backwards, be careful not to let the fan puncture the fins.
     
    MarkNap128 likes this.

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