Replacing ABS actuator/ECU

Hey everyone, hope you're all getting the holiday weekend off to a good start.

Tonight I am wondering about the possibility of fixing my ABS/Brake Light issue myself. I'll try to be brief.

ABS and Brake lights have been on in my 2006 4WD Tacoma since I bought the truck. The code that stays on is C0215 indicating a problem with the Left Rear ABS speed sensor.

I first had it checked out by the dealer, who said the ABS ECU would need to be replaced for a cool $1400+

Naturally I got a second opinion from a guy who was once a lead mechanic at the dealership but now owns his own business that's highly reputable, he says he was sick of seeing people ripped off..

Anyway, he confirmed what they said, but was more detailed in his explanation, but they checked the sensor and wiring/continuity from the rear sensors on up. ABS ECU needs replacing.

I've now bought a salvage ABS actuator part #44050-04070 and am wondering the possibility of doing this myself.. I understand that if a scanner is needed the answer will be no, but also wonder if anyone has experience just swapping the electrical component, rather than having to bleed the actuator? If it just involves bleeding the lines and bolting the thing on, I feel confident in that, but I also respect that this is a complex system and would rather pay someone than give myself a headache this weekend if it's much harder than I've described above. Any advice would be great, thanks in advance!

 

I'm not sure about Toyota, but on Fords, the abs ecu has to be programmed when you install a new one. To swap out the ecu on a Ford, you simply unplug it, remove the bolts and carefully slide it straight out and install the new one. I assume a Toyota is pretty much the same. No bleeding is involved.

 

I’m having this exact same issue. Left rear sensor trigger light but sensors been replaced, looks ok, wiring is all good. Bearings replaced. Today shop narrowed it down to ECU. Did you end up swapping yours or did you do the whole abs assembly?

 

ECU and pump are together and easy to replace with the crows foot flare nut wrenches. You can get away without crow foot but flare nut is a must for me. Not bad at all, in order to bleed afterwards, you must use techstream. However, it can be had by the day or any bootleg Amazon setup will let you actuate the ABS module and run all the tests for about $29 total for life. Overall, fairly easy job.

 

I did not try to separate the ECU since I bought a complete salvage module. It would be damn near impossible to separate the ECU without remove the complete module first IIRC. I have a complete functioning module if anybody needs to test theirs with a controlled substitution. I know there are different parts across different second gen years, but not sure if that applies to the ECU or pump or both. I can check numbers if needed.

 

I have the same issue. 2006 TRD Sport Dbl Cab 4x4.

ABS/Brake light on - left rear wheel speed sensor
New sensor didn't fix it
New bearings didn't fix it
Another new sensor didn't fix it
Showing correct voltage
Shop indicated it is ABS Module
Order a salvage cheapo on ebay.

Was thinking of just swapping Module so as to avoid bleeding. Did anyone do this?

 

Did this work for you? I have a similar situation with both read speed sensors throwing codes at the same time and I tried swapping sensors and checked the wire voltage and continuity.

 

Yes!!! I ended up getting the ABS unit/assembly from a wrecker, ** making sure the number matched to the OE one off my truck **. I unscrewed the 4 Phillips head screws that holding the computer module onto the pump, and swapped the computer only.

There are three bolts holding the unit onto the truck fender. I removed those and I unclipped the brakes lines along the fire wall and gently had to sort of bend the unit upwards to reach the 4 Phillips screws holding the bad ABS ECU to be removed on the pump housing. All in all, took 10 minutes and my abs light went out immediately.

Be gentle when separating the ECU from the pump housing as the solenoids look fragile. Keep dust out and only separate right when you’re ready to swap the part to avoid any chance of dust, debris or accidental damage to the ABS solenoids on the ECU. Wish I had some pics!

 

Awesome, I'm testing circuits with a multimeter today but since I already replaced the combo meter, seems like replacing the skid ecu is what all the repair guides suggest.

What was the part number and where did you order it/how much? Mines a 14 but hopefully they're similar.

 

And dumb question, how do you get the big S1 waterproof plug off of the ABS actuator? Trying to test the the circuits per the repair manual but don't want to break the connector.

 

There is a latch that drops down to pull it off. I have a working ECU and abs pump off my 14 in my garage if that what your problem turns out to be.

 

Can you DM me a pic with the part number on it? I have a manual and not sure if it's different than the auto.

 

The ECU may be different. I will get you a pic tomorrow.

 

I bought one of ebay for $75 but it had water damage so I sent it back. I bought another from a local wrecker for about $400 Canadian and it was in good condition off similar year.

 

Is the computer module just bolted to the actuator pump with the 4 screws or are there any electrical or other connections inside between them?

 

Good news is….this is what it looks like.


Bad news is….you have to disassemble the black plug first since there are some stuff plugs that break the wire when you pull it apart.

 

you should not have to disassemble the wiring harness at all. I didn’t have to on my 2006. It was as simple as undoing the connector (which is easy but you need to know how to disconnect it properly…pull the white locking thing up and it should just disconnect. Then it’s just 4 screws holding things together. Gently wiggle apart…maybe use a really small flat head to pry a little around the weather seal until separated.

 

this one looks a little different than the one on my 2006 but should be the same.

 

@TerranAce007 I highly recommend you keep the pump and ECU together. The one I disassembled was from a 14 and they are different from manual to auto. They cheap enough to find in online auto wholesale inventory. The plug is easy enough to unclip and four bolt roughly then all the brake lines.

 

I just ordered one from a wrecker on ebay for $150 that has the matching part number to mine. I can install it myself and bleed the brakes, but is it plug & play or do I need techstream to initialize or program it?