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Replacing A/C Compressor 2004 v6

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 53rdcard, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Sep 15, 2017 at 5:56 AM
    #1
    53rdcard

    53rdcard [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I already took it to get the coolant recovered, so the system is not charged. And i have changed a compressor in the past so i also know to measure the oil in the old and match that amount in the new. i have all the parts i need already. I just dont want to get it halfway apart and find that what i thought was going to happen next isnt in fact what is happening next.

    The FSM is totally unhelpful for replacing this part, it simply says, "remove compressor" and the only help it provides is a diagram of the compressor assembly, but goes into great detail on replacing the clutch assembly while the compressor is in the truck, it has like 6 pages. Something that came in handy a few months ago.

    I had the spring clip that holds the compressor pulley break on mine, but because it felt the need to be special, it got a piece of it caught, and dug a trench going forward almost like a thread on a screw far onto the shaft housing built into the compressor. I did replace the spring clip as well as the bearing in the clutch pulley. and a few months later it has broken again, this is actually the 3rd time now i have replaced it, each time i took a look at it and that area the original dug into the compressor shaft was where the new clip had broken and lodged into, and made it bigger and deeper, this time it only lasted a week. So a $0.50 cent clip is costing me a new compressor as that part cannot be repaired, it is a part of the compressor itself.

    What i was wondering is, has anyone ever change the compressor on the v6? I found a video on how to do it to a 2000 4 cylinder, but cant find anything on the v6 model.

    What i have found so far is, remove the rubber cover inside the passengers side wheel well, in front of the wheel, i have done that, and can see the compressor, and its hoses, i already know how to tension and remove the belt as i have changed them in the past. i can also see 2 of the bolts that hold the compressor in place, and the video i saw said that you can access the other 2 from under the frame, that looks to be accurate for one, but the other seems to be behind a large metal area of the frame and right in the middle of it. And the video then showed removing the compressor through the hold made when you remove the rubber cover from the wheel well, but that opening looks to be to small to me for that to happen.

    Am i on the right track, or do i need to go somewhere else when i try to remove and replace the compressor?
     
  2. Sep 15, 2017 at 6:19 AM
    #2
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Empty Wallet Mod
    Hmmm I just yanked my engine and left the ac intact so I removed the compressor and bungeed it out of the way. I don't remember having a hard time getting to any of the 4 bolts that hold it to the bracket. If anything I would have used a wobble extension and / or a u-joint and / or swivel socket since those are the only "flexible" tools I have for fasteners. I probably had already removed the ps pump and bungeed it out of the way, but I don't know if that was a deciding factor in getting to the compressor.
     
  3. Sep 15, 2017 at 10:20 AM
    #3
    MrMike1952

    MrMike1952 New Member

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    I just replaced the complete A/C system on my 96 3.4 V6. New compressor, condenser, expansion valve, drier, all 3 aluminum liquid lines and intake and discharge hoses. She blows 38 degree cold air now. To remove the compressor I loosened and removed the belt for the compressor and left it hanging on the drive pulley. I left the PS belt in place. From the under side I broke loose the 2 lower bolts using a 6 point 12mm 3/8" drive socket with and extended length handled flex ratchet. I also remove the 2 clips holding the PS lines in place. After removing the air cleaner, intake hose, and a couple of electrical connectors I had a clear path to the top 2 compressor bolts and A/C hose fittings. I removed the hoses first using a 10mm socket. I used the same socket & ratchet combo to break the 2 top compressor bolts loose. I disconnected the electrical plug for the compressor next. From the top I used a 1/4" drive 12mm deep socket and ratchet to finish removing all 4 bolts. From the underside I was able to slightly move the PS hoses and took the compressor out the bottom. Reassembly is the reverse.

    Installing the compressor can be tough. Trying to get the first couple of bolts started while supporting the weight of the compressor isn't easy. To make life easier bolting the compressor back on I used a couple of #2 phillips head screwdrivers as alignment pins in the top 2 holes to lift the compressor up into place.
     
    btu44, Trapperr and 53rdcard[OP] like this.
  4. Sep 15, 2017 at 2:38 PM
    #4
    53rdcard

    53rdcard [OP] Well-Known Member

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    MrMike1952, thank you very much, that was exactly what i was looking for.
    I'll add a couple of things someone doing it in the future might consider, i only add these cause i already had this part started.
    Instead of removing the air intake, you can also remove the passengers side wheel, and the top front rubber cover in the wheel well, doing that allows you a straight shot right to the top 2 bolts of the compressor, as well as the nuts that hold on the high and low pressure lines.
    And when it came to putting it back together, i found that on the bottom the mount has feet right below the lower bolts, and you can rest the compressor on those go back to the wheel well and put the top 2 bolts in. it was a nice straight shot.

    Removing the clips that hold the power steering hoses is a must, those and removing the bottom of the fan shroud are must do, there is no other way to get that compressor out.

    Thanks again man, you made that job much easier.
     
  5. Sep 15, 2017 at 4:24 PM
    #5
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    You can always get some big zip ties to hold the compressor in place while installing the new one - shipping materials websites sometimes have some big industrial strength ones or you can just daisy chain some more standard sized ones together. Ratchet straps help with stuff like that too sometimes.
     
  6. Sep 16, 2017 at 9:51 AM
    #6
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    When I did mine on the engine swap one of the bolts was obstructed by one of the compressor lines. I wanted to leave the AC system intack... that bolt was a real pain in the rear. To tight for my fingers to undo and no access for a socket so used an open end wrench with limited swing range, took forever.
     
    Dalandser likes this.

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