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Replacement of Radiator support

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Jer’s Taco, Nov 7, 2018.

  1. Nov 7, 2018 at 5:07 PM
    #1
    Jer’s Taco

    Jer’s Taco [OP] Member

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    Newbie here... Just had some damage done to my front end and wanted to see if anyone has had experience with changing out the radiator support? One of the issues I noticed was the a/c lines running through the old one so I’m guessing the lines will have to be removed and then replaced and then a vacuum on the ac system once reinstalled. Any advice or asssistnace is much appreciated.
    2002 Tacoma TRD 210,500 miles
     
    ChrisSmith41399 likes this.
  2. Nov 7, 2018 at 8:42 PM
    #2
    Laxtoy

    Laxtoy Dog is my backseat driver

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    C06693B3-E1C9-430B-A3AF-E6082E796F18.jpg You’re taking on a lot. In regards to the ac lines, go to a shop and get the system evacuated. When you put the lines back together replace all the o rings. I recharged mine with the cans from the auto parts store, 6 years later it still works, but I think a shop would have been better.

    You have a welder? Trying to get everything lined up perfectly can be difficult, and I highly recommend getting a quality replacement core support.

    It’s a ton of work, and putting it back structurally correct is pretty vital. I painted it with rattle can sealing primer and paint to try to match the green, but it still rusts through, it really should be painted with epoxy primer.
     
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  3. Nov 8, 2018 at 6:10 AM
    #3
    Jer’s Taco

    Jer’s Taco [OP] Member

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    Laxtoy, thank you for the reply. I kind of figured it would be a large project. I was trying to bend back what I could, but it was just to beat up. I am planning on borrowing my buddies welder to do the job. I was hoping there was a trick with the ac lines, but as you explained there doesn’t look like a way around them with out disconnecting them. This is just the beginning though, as I have the hood and a bunch of other parts that need replaced. I just don’t want to let this truck go though cause it still runs like dream with 210,000. Once again thanks for the information and hoping the parts will be in by this weekend to start.

    10660F7D-DBBE-47E2-B6BE-8EFF01A42F03.jpg
     
  4. Nov 8, 2018 at 7:08 AM
    #4
    Jer’s Taco

    Jer’s Taco [OP] Member

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    Laxtoy, one more question. When you installed the new one were you able to spot weld it or did you have to tact weld it?
     
  5. Nov 8, 2018 at 7:47 AM
    #5
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I would install it with some pop rivits first then align everything, fenders, hood etc. Do you plan on a mig tack weld or brazing or ?
     
  6. Nov 8, 2018 at 8:34 AM
    #6
    Jer’s Taco

    Jer’s Taco [OP] Member

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    Thanks Glamisman, I’m looking at doing a mug tack weld. I know this is going to be a project, but just can’t let this trick go. The rivots sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the info!
     
  7. Nov 8, 2018 at 8:42 AM
    #7
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    What a shame! I hope you can get it back to where you want it. :fingerscrossed:
     
  8. Nov 8, 2018 at 2:56 PM
    #8
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    or nuts and bolts so that you can wiggle things around. If the gaps are even and the cross measurments from the firewall to the core support are even I would call it good. Did the insurance total this or you doing this on the side?
     
  9. Nov 8, 2018 at 2:59 PM
    #9
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the CS on my 04. There are 40 spot welds that need drilled out. Installing you will be plug welding with a mig welder.
     
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  10. Nov 8, 2018 at 3:15 PM
    #10
    pairodice

    pairodice Well-Known Member

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    That needs more than just a rad support, inner wheelhouse and possibly upper rail. Take it to a body shop and put it on the frame machine, have them pull it and square it first. Then you can see what else you will need to change. It's a ton of spot welds, get a spot weld drill bit. If you have never welded on sheet metal, practice first. Use solid wire .025 or. 030. Sheet metal screws work great as to hold the panels in place, then weld them shut after you check fit and gaps. Good luck
     
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  11. Nov 8, 2018 at 5:20 PM
    #11
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    OP, @pairodice , @Glamisman and others have given some solid advice. I just finished straightening the one in the pic below. While my frame had almost no deviation, it was still tough getting things close. So, I agree with your direction to replace if $$$ and skill permits. Could be the angle of the pic, but it loos like your frame is bent pretty bad.

    If you take it to a shop before you remove anything, they can understand impact angles and more easily, and effectively, straighten any frame damage. Minimum get very good pics. I used heat, chain and ratchet boomer, tractor, welded chain hooks in several places as pull points,... I got everything close, but definitely not like a professional. It wasn't cockiness, I just wanted to do it on the cheap.

    Also, you are correct AC must be drained. Mine had all escaped, but from previous experience I know some shops will drain them, then when you are ready, you return the vehicle and they only charge labor. Basically, you "get back" whatever volume of refrigerant you deposited.

    20180927_153413.jpg
    20180928_135241.jpg
     
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  12. Nov 8, 2018 at 5:40 PM
    #12
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    @Jer's Taco

    By the way, with hood, fender, grille, bumper, radiator, AC condensor, lower valence... but re-using the rad support and CS I am at about $750-800. That's using Rock Auto, Amazon, and others, not dealer supplied parts. No paint as of now.

    I have about 22 hours labor in it.
     
  13. Nov 8, 2018 at 5:45 PM
    #13
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Holy shit
    Holy shit! That looks familiar!

    IMAG0249.jpg
     
  14. Nov 9, 2018 at 8:18 PM
    #14
    Wsidr1

    Wsidr1 Well-Known Member

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    @koditten

    No kidding. Not sure how far along you are, but I am getting close to being paint ready. My body panels are pretty well aligned. Hood still needs a little leveling. My main fail is the LH headlight is somewhat recessed due to not getting everything back forward as much as it should be. But, looks pretty good for amateur work.

    This truck may get some suspension, tire/wheel, and bumper upgrades because the frame and under body are in great shape. Most of it's life was in SE Tenn. I bought it wrecked, so I only have about $2200 (plus labor) in it as you see it there: V-6 auto, 4x4, 255,000, manual L/Os, clean title. I feel I can put some more money in it and still be okay.

    20181105_174037_001[1].jpg
     
    Jer’s Taco[OP] likes this.
  15. Nov 10, 2018 at 3:43 AM
    #15
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I find the best tool for removing spot welds is a spot weld cutter .

    Years ago I needed to cut numerous ones every day.

    I went with Snap On but by now other brands should be just as good.
     
  16. Nov 14, 2018 at 7:26 PM
    #16
    Jer’s Taco

    Jer’s Taco [OP] Member

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    Thank you all for kind words of wisdom. At least I’m not the only one in this boat. I feel like I’m making progress, but still have to work on Getting the bumper, hood, and grill. I was able to use a winch hooked to back of my other truck and square things up. I ended up using bolts, rivots, and my buddy is going to hit some welds in it too. What a job though and it’s been raining here non stop. :rain:

    59E2983E-2716-4D6D-AABE-D8D7B23E8189.jpg
     
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  17. Sep 10, 2020 at 3:36 PM
    #17
    Kainsta110

    Kainsta110 Active Member

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    This is my next project. front passenger damage from deer to humans lol (really need to get a brush guard). No damage to the frame on mine just need someone who can weld after i drill out the spot welds.
     
  18. Sep 11, 2020 at 2:19 AM
    #18
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    After you protect the front of the truck the Evil Deer start running into the side of the Truck.

    Well Known Fact.
     
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